JD 2440 Lower Rock Shaft Bushings (HEAD ACHE).

[shortyprinter]

Ok....I definitley get the answer that removing the bushing is not easy or recommended, and yet I am forced to remove bushing in whatever way I can without damaging the hole, and my 10 fingers of course.....So for anyone that has removed this bushing, or seen what they look like, I need to start banging on the bushing itself which I mentioned has a very small lip to hit internally, or the coupling which preceeds the bushing from the inside, and I need to know if it even is attached or pressed in as well, because I have banged on it already but see no movement, nor would I if it is not a press fit item? So I am truly looking for the expert opinion on what I can do next moving forward on the issue of Bushing removal....Maybe there is a tool that the JD shop might use, or rent me??

 

[dugndeep]

I don't know if the 2440 is different than my 2040 or not.I do know the 2240 is similar to my 2040.The 2440 is 60 horse and might be more beefier in that area.Before I bought my 2040 brand new I had stopped at the dealership and picked up all the pamplets on the 40 series from the 2040 all the way up to the 2840.I trying to find just the 2440 one to see if I might be able to help you in some way.Let me see if I can find that and have a look just to see if it is similar to mine.They just have the specs a pics but they are booklets of a sort and do have some good pics and info.

 

[dugndeep]

Let me look at my manual for mine and see if it can give any info or the tool of choice for doing this.My book says nothing about getting it out but does say you will need the bushing driver set listed on that page I posted,short notice,I'm doing the best I can for no computer training at all.

 

[shortyprinter]

that would be great to see pictures, and I am going to try to post a picture of what I have, and yes I beleive the 2040, 2240 and 2440 may be identical in this particular area......

 

[dugndeep]

I hope that helps some.......or at least gives you an idea on how it goes back in there.Let me see if I can find those pamplets and will post back.The pamplets will only have pictures at best.

 

[shortyprinter]

I have 2 pictures..does anyone know if Tractorbynet is able to upload pics.........I see the insert image just above my typing and I have a simple Jpeg photo, but it does not upload the pic when instructed....

 

[shortyprinter]

it appears to have uploaded my 1st pic, I will send my second.....Also the instructions sent involve what to do with replacing new bearing, not removal of old.

 

[shortyprinter]

here is my second pic

 

[dugndeep]

I've been looking to see if it tells a little more about removal of bushings but it does not.On putting new bushing back in it says to put in freezer first and chill it down.The picture just tells what the item number in the instructions is talking about.Thought it might help.

 

[shortyprinter]

Yes the parts diagram you attached is excellent, as your diagram shows the two things I was refferring to which I stated one was a coupling that came up tight to the bushing....well they appear in your diagram as #5 and #2 which they say are both bushings, and the seal ring and O ring are inside of #2 bushing in my case............So they must both come out I presume and I can definitley hit on the #5 bushing from opposite end as it has a considerable edge that protrudes where as #2 bushing just sits almost flush to #5 on the outside and is hard to get a good pound on......But if this is indeed the case, then I am hitting #5 bushing to bang against #2 bushing and trying to free up and move both bushings at the same time......Would everyone agree on his ?

 

[Zebrafive]

Yes the parts diagram you attached is excellent, as your diagram shows the two things I was refferring to which I stated one was a coupling that came up tight to the bushing....well they appear in your diagram as #5 and #2 which they say are both bushings, and the seal ring and O ring are inside of #2 bushing in my case............So they must both come out I presume and I can definitley hit on the #5 bushing from opposite end as it has a considerable edge that protrudes where as #2 bushing just sits almost flush to #5 on the outside and is hard to get a good pound on......But if this is indeed the case, then I am hitting #5 bushing to bang against #2 bushing and trying to free up and move both bushings at the same time......Would everyone agree on his ?

I think #5 is what you are trying to remove from each side. I think #2 is what the ball of the lower 3pt link rides on.

Do you have a tool you use to catch in the seal groove and use a slide hammer?

 

[Tx Jim]

...Would everyone agree on his ?

I will agree that parts key 5 is the bushing if worn out that must be driven out of trans case from the opposite side.

 

[dugndeep]

Part #5 is what he is going to have to remove.Here's a few pics of my old part #2's,they wasn't wore to bad but I said since I was doing this and the teflon washers that go in the groove in part #5.Lift arms slide over part #2 and the shims that go on the outside of your arms.The shims only come 5 to a pack and I needed 6(3 on each side) so I got 4 extra.The black rubber o-rings goes on the outside of the teflon washer and fit in the groove inside part #5.Load control shaft slides inside the teflon washer and seal that part and the o-rings seal the outside of the groove in part #5.I took a pan of hot water out to the barn and put the teflon washers in that to soften them up.I didn't have to remove my load control shaft,just slid it enough both ways to get the seals in the groove of the bushing.Thought the hydraulic fluid would really flow out while I was doing this but it wasn't bad at all.
Reason for 2 pics of same thing,1 with flash and 1 without.Sometimes the flash is too much .If I remember right ,part #2 retainer bushings were pretty costly.Shims are cheap and so is the teflon and rubber o-ring.I think part #2 were 15 or 16 dollars a piece and come in a pack of 2.

 

[dugndeep]

Part #2 just slides on the ends of the load control shaft and your lift arms ride on part #2.

 

[shortyprinter]

Im sure pleased with all of the help and advice everyone has been able to provide.....and here is what I have to date, after going to JD dealer mechanic. He opened the work manual for my 2440 and the diagram was similar to what I was shown in this blog...And he told me I should be able to pound through to the #5 bushing and it would come out, but when I showed him my 2 pictures of my shaft hole which I have shown you all as well, he was mystified as to what that big looking washer was? and I said it was attached to the bushing part that I took out the teflon and oring, and further inside appeared to be another coupling butted against #5, so thats why I thought 2 and 5 were both inside. He agrees with dugndeep that #2 is on the outside and the lift arms go over it. Still leaves me with question of what is that thing that looks like a huge washer in my pic, if he has never seen it.....and its not on the diagram from JD. I will attempt the pounding today and keep you all up to speed

 

[dugndeep]

I'm going to go out and take a look see and see if mine is like yours.

 

[shortyprinter]

ok as I was just getting ready to go bang on the bushings, so I will wait to see what u find

 

[dugndeep]

I can't see much for the lift arms,tried to take a few pics but I don't think mine has that big washer looking outside to it.After looking at that last picture it might have that big washer look to it like your's does.Got to admit to,mine is just 40 hp and the one you are working on is 60 hp.

 

[dugndeep]

Just take your time and get those out I reckon.

 

[shortyprinter]

OK dugndeep and any others who have been following my blog........SUCCESS......and yes the PICs I see of your load control shaft does appear to be just like my 2440..and I will show you what they look like when out..I will also say that I cut the shaft off a little to get a more thorough hammer hit, and I also made sure it was a nice non rounded end to pound against the internal bushing and I also wedged a screwdriver in the opposite end I was hitting to offset the bar to maintain good contact with the bushing...I started by hitting the outward bushing and BOOOOM it popped out....so when I looked inside the hole, I did see the secondary type coupler or bushing I reffered to earlier, and I am not sure if this also should come out, but I did no damage to it and it is further in the casing and it may not be removal anyway...So do Not bang anything but the outward bushing.......I have pics of the complete parts I took off in order, and you will see the two Bushings I had trouble with, one is on its side to show you the depth of it and the other opposite way. WOW