Unfortunately I did not get a good deal, though I did pay on the bottom end of what a used woking 336 would go for. It actually looks really good cosmetically when compared with other 336 balers I have seen advertised for a lot more. I was told that when the baler was parked it was baling. Spoke with the guy last night and he still swore the baler was working when he parked. I had bought it a couple of months ago and parked it in my shed, Just got it out to go over it and realized the problems.
JD 336 Baler Problems
- Thread starter sadair
- Start date
Just to start you may want to check the timing. When you trip the knotter to start a tie as the plunger moves back the needles should just start to enter the bale case as the end of the plunger passes over the needles. I would check that first. If that is in time the rest of the knotter processes should be in time also.
Ok, now how about a sideview picture of the needle frame when fully retracted and the needles are in home position. A closeup of the needle to needle frame too.
My guess is that the plunger hit the needles but did not break them, just bent them back.
Or, the mounts on the needle frame are bent (twisted). And its badly out of time (no big deal to reset time, may need new or straightened needles.)
Here's how it ought to look (yes its a different model but the needle threading throught the fames past the twine disks is the same).
YouTube - John Deere Baler Knotter Action
Remove the needles and lay them flat on the floor, both together. The stacked set ought to be identically shaped and flat.
Check the knotter frames to look for cracks. Those are the parts I hate to change.
If the baler was claimed to be working AND tying knots when you bought it, I'd go back for some money from the previous owner.
My guess is that the plunger hit the needles but did not break them, just bent them back.
Or, the mounts on the needle frame are bent (twisted). And its badly out of time (no big deal to reset time, may need new or straightened needles.)
Here's how it ought to look (yes its a different model but the needle threading throught the fames past the twine disks is the same).
YouTube - John Deere Baler Knotter Action
Remove the needles and lay them flat on the floor, both together. The stacked set ought to be identically shaped and flat.
Check the knotter frames to look for cracks. Those are the parts I hate to change.
If the baler was claimed to be working AND tying knots when you bought it, I'd go back for some money from the previous owner.
zzvyb6,
I think you are correct about the needles or needle mounts are bent (or both). Will try and get some photos with the needles in their home position. I can say this is that when they are in home position there is still 3-6 inches of the needle ends sticking into the bale chamber. The JD dealer does not have new needles in stock so I am trying to find someone with a 336 to compare. I hate to spend the money on new needles when it is the frame.
Also thanks for the video link. The needles are not even close to coming up inside the knotter. They complete miss it.
Steve
I think you are correct about the needles or needle mounts are bent (or both). Will try and get some photos with the needles in their home position. I can say this is that when they are in home position there is still 3-6 inches of the needle ends sticking into the bale chamber. The JD dealer does not have new needles in stock so I am trying to find someone with a 336 to compare. I hate to spend the money on new needles when it is the frame.
Also thanks for the video link. The needles are not even close to coming up inside the knotter. They complete miss it.
Steve
Tx Jim
New Member
sadair
I agree you need to compare the needles before purchasing any but you'll be lucky if needles and frame aren't both bent.
I agree you need to compare the needles before purchasing any but you'll be lucky if needles and frame aren't both bent.
Well I definitely have at least one bent needle, not sure about the other one (see image). The frame does not appear bent (see images) but I may have to put the new needle(s) on in order to tell. Still looking for a functional 336 to compare to.
I want to thank everyone for their help. You have been great
I want to thank everyone for their help. You have been great
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spotracing1
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- Aug 28, 2018
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- 1972 ford
How do u time the baler? Also I just bought one and it baled 104 no prob then all if a sudden the mechanical stop caught it before it got the needles. My first baler with a side flywheel. The fly wheel keeps turning for maybe 3 minutes after I cut the baler off and park the tractor, is this normal for a side flywheel?
If the flywheel is free wheeling after pto is shut down, then the flywheel shear pin is sheared. When the mechanical stop catches the plunger arm, it will shear the pin and slip the clutch. Usually the mechanical stop catches the plunger when the needle brake gets loose and allows the needles to drift into the chamber when they are not supposed to be there. many times adjusting the brake tighter prevents this from happening. Do you have the operators manual? The timing procedure is clearly shown in there. If drive chains get too loose it can allow the baler to get out of time and cause shear pin to shear also.
beenthere
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spotracing
:welcome: to TBN
jd110 jarred my memory about a free-wheeling flywheel. Hope you can take his info and solve the timing problem.
I sneeze just thinking about the days I had to tear into the baler to fix something back in the day.. were just converting from wire tie bales (hand tied wires) to twine balers.. a few jd auto wire ties around too, in the 50's
:welcome: to TBN
jd110 jarred my memory about a free-wheeling flywheel. Hope you can take his info and solve the timing problem.
I sneeze just thinking about the days I had to tear into the baler to fix something back in the day.. were just converting from wire tie bales (hand tied wires) to twine balers.. a few jd auto wire ties around too, in the 50's
Phillip w
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Balers can be both touchy and a pain in the a** all at the same time. I lot of them old square balers you did not want to shut them down during a tying cycle. It would screw you up just as sure as Good made little green apples. Because you where baling without issues, there is a good chance that is what happened. Simply pull all the hay out of the bale chamber. Have someone hold the needles back while you roll it over by hand. This will "reset" everything. Start tractor and baler. Feed a little hay into the baler and then trip the knotters. She should cycle and tie. Now your ready to go. The jd 14t, new Holland 268 and some international balers we're good about screwing up if you shut them down during a tying cycle. A good rule of thumb with balers is if you been baling with little or no trouble, don't panic if you "hit a speed bump". I've seen guys get to turning this and cranking that and pretty soon the baler is "suffering from tinkeritis". If you do try to adjust something, keep track of how much/many turns you turn something so you can always get back to where you started if you need to. Hope this helps.