JD 4300 Battery Replace

[brohloff]

Have a 2001 4300 with 170 hrs on it. Original OEM battery (sticker on side marked "Sept 00") getting a little weak so want to replace it b4 winter.
Have read on this forum all the troubles with the OEM 22NF battery on these models and seem not to have any of these leaking, corrosion issues. Tray and Hyd cooler good shape yet.

Wondering what most are using as a replacement? Only 22NF's found here are 390CCA's rather than the OEM 500CCA's. Found a Energizer 51R at Sam's Club with 495CCA's for a reasonable $58 that is close in size but it has the 2 rectangular cell caps that many say to avoid due to leaking, etc.

Are these std snap top type batteries still a potential leaking issue and one should go with a maintenance free or sealed ($$$) unit? Or was that(leaking) just an issue with the original OEM batteries? Suggestions?
bob...

 

[beenthere]

I just replaced the battery in my 4300 with a Deere battery. It was a sealed one and so far so good. It was different from the yellow battery that I took out.

 

[mjncad]

What a coincidence. My battery from 06/2006 on my 2001 JD 4200 just puked.

I didn't want to get another Deere battery; but everything I found either had less CCA's than the OEM battery, or would require me to fab up mounting brackets. Fabbing the brackets is no big deal; but I don't need the distraction.

I see the Deere batteries are now sealed maintenance free types. I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow to see if they have one in stock.

 

[Cat_Driver]

No matter who's name is on it these people probably made it here in the United States.

EAST PENN manufacturing co., inc.: Lead-Acid Batteries; Battery Manufacturers; Thousands of Different Types of Batteries, Cable & Wire Product

They make batteries for all the big boys who just put their LOGO on it. I called them and they make them for a company near you. If you buy the one with the LOGO on it it will cost you twice what they sell them for at like a AUTO parts store near you.

 

[kennyd]

Not an endorsment, but if you search the term "optima" you will get plenty of battery threads and suggestions for replacement.

 

[Storm56]

Battery went in my 4700 about 4 years ago. Just went to Sam's club and bought one. Champion brand I believe. Been working fine and at about 1/2 the cost of JD.

 

[dfkrug]

I see the Deere batteries are now sealed maintenance free types. I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow to see if they have one in stock.

I imagine that JD is going to want well North of 100 clams for one of
their batteries. If so, go for an Optima as Kenny suggests.

I just buy a cheapo EverStart from Walmart.

BTW, I have a Panasonic battery in one of my cars and it is 11 years
old. I have never had a battery last so long, not even close.

 

[rekees4300]

I imagine that JD is going to want well North of 100 clams for one of
their batteries. If so, go for an Optima as Kenny suggests.

Yes got a Deere battery a year ago and it was over $100 plus had to wait 2 weeks for the dealer to get it. On the positive side (no pun intended) haven't had any problems with it.

 

[beenthere]

The JD 4300 replacement for me earlier this summer was $108 less $10 for old one back.
It is sealed, fits, and I didn't have to wait for it .

 

[mjncad]

I imagine that JD is going to want well North of 100 clams for one of
their batteries. If so, go for an Optima as Kenny suggests.

I just buy a cheapo Everlast from Walmart.

BTW, I have a Panasonic battery in one of my cars and it is 11 years
old. I have never had a battery last so long, not even close.

Yep, $108 and change + 2.9% tax.

The JD 4300 replacement for me earlier this summer was $108 less $10 for old one back.
It is sealed, fits, and I didn't have to wait for it .

I could have gotten a Sears Die-Hard Group 51R for $10 - $30 less, along with less CCA's and making my own hold-down bracket.

I thought about Wally-World; but their web site didn't list car batteries, or at least I couldn't find them on the site, and I didn't want to waste my time there along with possibly being mistaken for a Wal-Martian in my grubby clothes.

Since the battery failure seemed odd as I recently put about 40-hours on the clock over the past 2 - 3 weeks; I'm going to pull the alternator and have it tested in case the regulator or some sort of other sparky issue exists in it. I hope not as I don't need that expense.

 

[Runner]

You might take a look at Exide batteries at TSC. I recently found one for my 2520 there that had the correct tabs to match my hold-down clamps. The CCA rating is a little less than the factory battery, but it seems to be working out OK. Price was around $90.

Tried Walmart first, but didn't see anything there that would work with the hold-down clamps.

 

[dfkrug]

Since the battery failure seemed odd as I recently put about 40-hours on the clock over the past 2 - 3 weeks; I'm going to pull the alternator and have it tested in case the regulator or some sort of other sparky issue exists in it.

Before you pull it out, do this simple test: check the voltage of the
battery with the tractor off. Start the tractor and check it again while
it is running. Check it at the same terminals each time. In rough terms,
the running test should show several volts higher than the first test. You
can also test the voltage a 3rd time after the tractor has been running
a while (the initial charge to replace lost charge for starting the tractor
has been complete).

 

[brohloff]

Thanks for all the replies folks. JD dealer here was $109 (22NF) but went with a 51R Energizer from Sam's for $58. 495CCA's vs JD's 500CCA's so a wash there.
Both are maintenance free types.
Made a top hold down using two 9" long threaded rods into the existing floor hold down nuts and a square u shaped bar from my junk box that fit over the battery perfectly even the holes for the threaded rods. Solid as a rock and even looks OEM. Also the 51R is 1/2" narrower (4 3/4 vs 5 1/4) than the 22NF so installed the 51R gives 3/4 spacing to the radiator vs the 22NF OEM's 1/4" fit for a little better cooling air flow and since the battery blocks about 25% of the front radiator surface more clearance is better.
Good for another 10 yrs???
b...

 

[mjncad]

Before you pull it out, do this simple test: check the voltage of the
battery with the tractor off. Start the tractor and check it again while
it is running. Check it at the same terminals each time. In rough terms,
the running test should show several volts higher than the first test. You
can also test the voltage a 3rd time after the tractor has been running
a while (the initial charge to replace lost charge for starting the tractor
has been complete).

Dave:

You and a friend of mine I talked to this evening are thinking alike regarding the on-tractor test. This morning I pulled the alternator, which was less than 30-minutes to do, even with the loader on.

The Deere dealer I bought my battery from couldn't put it on their alternator test machine because they didn't have a test plug to fit that Denso alternator. OK, I'm more than halfway to the next Deere dealer, same story...no plug to fit it. I tried the local NAPA store, and no go as the part number didn't match anything in their database.

Since I still have it out, I'm going to call a Denver based company that deals with alternators, starters, etc and see if they can put it on their test machine. If not, then I fall back to your suggestion.

 

[dfkrug]

Since I still have it out, I'm going to call a Denver based company that deals with alternators, starters, etc and see if they can put it on their test machine. If not, then I fall back to your suggestion.

If your ND alternator is bad, the regulator, the rectifier, and the brushes
are all modular and available from a 3rd party source for about $30-35 each.

 

[Johndeere3720]

I just replaced the battery for the 3720 a few weeks ago. It lasted 5 years, pretty good for a tractor that is used daily. I put in a new Intersate battery and it has started ever since. I did however find that it is WAY easier to remove the grill guard to put the battery in.

 

[mjncad]

I took the alternator in to an automotive/industrial shop that specializes in alternators, starters, etc.

The technician had a two word response regarding my alternator, "Its toast." They didn't try and sell me a new one, so I have little reason to think they were BS'ing me. He told me that it only put out 0.7-volts.

Since the alternator has only 600-hours on it, and the battery went bad at the same time; I have a feeling this is yet another Easter egg leftover from a nearby lightning strike last month.

The Deere dealer didn't have rebuilt alternators available for this model, and the new 55-amp unit is coming in from Moline. Supposedly it will be here Monday.

Although I'd rather not spend the money; I don't need the distraction of tearing the old one apart, diagnosing it per the shop manual, ordering parts, etc, etc, etc in hopes of getting it to work.

 

[dfkrug]

The Deere dealer didn't have rebuilt alternators available for this model, and the new 55-amp unit is coming in from Moline. Supposedly it will be here Monday.

Sounds like you may have ordered one. I believe the OEM NipponDenso
alternator is only 40A and about $320 from JD. I see plenty of them for
sale new (eBay) for $150.

You can also upgrade to 55A or so with an automotive ND alternator,
for $50 or so used. Swapping an automotive unit may require conversion
to a V-belt pulley from a multi-rib. At least the newer JDs have a 3-wire
connector.

But that's a subject of another thread....

 

[mjncad]

Dave:

Yep, I ordered it and it was about $20 more than the 40-amp unit.

I could have tried adapting other alternators; but I've got enough unfinished projects started without adding another one.

In this case, it made more sense to spend the bucks to get it running again in a relatively timely fashion.