Oil & Fuel jd 5310 temp gauge

[JD5210]

I do not think you will have much luck finding replacement gauges, plus they are riveted to the face plate. It looks like the bulbs are bad? I looked up a number of temp/fuel gauges on the web and they all work the same. Having 3 poles, plus, negative and sending unit. At this point I think you need someone a little smarter than me. I would suggest going to the following site, showing them your pictures, describing your problem and what test you have performed.

You might consider writing. I am having a problem with the temp and fuel gauge on my tractor. When the engine is off and the battery is disconnected the gauges do not return to cold/empty. All grounds/connections are clean and fuses good. When I disconnect the 2 leads at the fuel sender, with battery connected and ignition on, and touch the leads together the needle goes to full. When just disconnected leads the needle is at ?. The gauges are in a container, so I cannot see inside. Any suggestions why the needles are not returning to cold/empty?

Electronics Forums

 

[Zebrafive]

I am sure the cluster will be pricey from the dealer. You might want to see if any tractor salvage yards have a cluster. If it's priced right you can transfer the guages to your board (if you want the hours to be correct) or just note the hours and install the used cluster. Be sure to test the used cluster before tearing it apart. Yard should guarantee it will work.

 

[mchildress]

My 5320 has the same problem JD said needs new gauge cluster just kind of hard to swallow at $400. Have found others with the same problem in 5410,5420,and sounds like the 4000 series has had the same problem.

 

[JD5210]

Not suggesting I have a fix, but should you want to open up the cluster you may find this useful. This was a from an electrics web-site.

Question: The temp and fuel gauge have 3 terminals positive, frame negative and sensor negative. If the back of the gauge is not marked how can one tell which is which? Normally can these gauges handle 12 volts or these normally something on the circuit board which reduces the voltage? If I understand your answer in the 妬nstrument cluster and the gauge can handle 12 volts. One should be able to attach a 12 volt positive lead to the positive terminal and putting a negative lead on one of the other terminals the needle should move in one direction and if one moves the negative lead to the other terminal the needle should go in the opposite direction true or false?

Answer: True on all accounts, as far as I can remember. It's been a long time since I fiddled with those and I don't have one easily available. I'd guess the (symetrically) middle post is the common positive. Measuring with an ohmmeter you should get the highest reading between the other two posts.
I'll call the coils "ignition" and "sensor" coil. (Since it's a diesel engine I hope that's ok. When power is off there are no springs or magnetic forces that returns the needle to zero, except perhaps for a weight imbalance of the magnet/needle assembly. The "ignition" coil always receives power when ignition is on and sets up a magnetic field that on its own makes the needle want to deflect below zero. The "sensor" coil receives power through the sensor and sets up a field that on its own will make the needle want to deflect past full. The combined field from these instruments are of the crossed coil type, with a magnet attached to the needle. These two coils has a resulting direction between these extremes, the direction depending on the balance of the currents through the coils. The coils both have one end tied to a common positive "ignition" post. The other ends of the coils are tied to each its own post, one for ground, and one for the sensor. Disconnecting the sensor should bring the needle hard down (below zero). If it's still above full then a short to ground in the sensor wire must be suspected. If the needle only comes to rest (like with power off) then the "ignition" coil is to be suspected. If the "ignition" coil looses its ground connection then I believe the described fault is the result. If both gages went out at the same time then a common ground (in/to the instrument panel) must be broken.