My John Deere 6200 tractor brakes are not working after a hydraulic line broke. I lost almost all of the hydraulic fluid. Now the pistons on the brakes will not come out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
JD 6200 brakes not working after hydraulic line broke
- Thread starter Luckytrey
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Industrial Toys
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That is interesting. Did you ask a dealer?
I don't think it has hydraulic brakes, just disk brakes running in oil. How long was the machine out of oil?
I don't think it has hydraulic brakes, just disk brakes running in oil. How long was the machine out of oil?
Industrial Toys
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Well, the steering is hydraulic, but I don't think the brakes. Just a mechanical connection to the (probably) disk brakes. Do you know they are disk brakes? Not a brake band?
I was just asking about the time, because I thought components might have rusted in the absense of oil. That would be BAD! Clutch packs and so forth.
I changed the hydraulic oil and filters on our 6200 this summer and fortunately didn't have any issue afterwards. The difference is that you pumped your system out, whereas I used the drain plugs.
I was just asking about the time, because I thought components might have rusted in the absense of oil. That would be BAD! Clutch packs and so forth.
I changed the hydraulic oil and filters on our 6200 this summer and fortunately didn't have any issue afterwards. The difference is that you pumped your system out, whereas I used the drain plugs.
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Tried to send you a link but this site wouldn't allow it. Apparently there are bleeder screws.
Google John Deere 6200 Brakes and see a hit that mentions seized, i think on Green Tractor.
Google John Deere 6200 Brakes and see a hit that mentions seized, i think on Green Tractor.
I saw that thread before posting here. I saw the diagram, but was not able to tell where it was located by it.
I took a line off where it goes into the pedal/piston assembly. When you turn the steering to the stops milky looking (hydraulic) fluid would come out. Not much but some. I did have it into the dealer last spring for not working 3 point hitch. They flushed the hydraulics and was still somewhat milky.
The failure timing seems to coincidental to not be somehow connected to the hydraulics.
I took a line off where it goes into the pedal/piston assembly. When you turn the steering to the stops milky looking (hydraulic) fluid would come out. Not much but some. I did have it into the dealer last spring for not working 3 point hitch. They flushed the hydraulics and was still somewhat milky.
The failure timing seems to coincidental to not be somehow connected to the hydraulics.
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Your fluid should not be milky. That's moisture. Can't be good for the clutch packs.
I learned something, in that I never would have guessed the tractor has hydraulically activated brakes.
The pedal sure doesn't feel like that.
I thought there was a post in that group explaining where the bleeder screws were.
So, steering does work perfectly now?
Trying to determine how the thing works from bits and pieces. So the pedals have pistons and the brakes have pistons? Closed circuit except they get their oil from the hyd system. No power assist on the brakes?
I learned something, in that I never would have guessed the tractor has hydraulically activated brakes.
The pedal sure doesn't feel like that.
I thought there was a post in that group explaining where the bleeder screws were.
So, steering does work perfectly now?
Trying to determine how the thing works from bits and pieces. So the pedals have pistons and the brakes have pistons? Closed circuit except they get their oil from the hyd system. No power assist on the brakes?
Not sure how the brakes work. I did see where the brake system gets its fluid from a steering bypass. Yes there is a piston of some sort behind each brake pedal arm. It is about 1” in diameter. Not sure if there is a piston at the wheel. I would guess there has to be but not sure.
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So just to be clear. You press on the brake pedals and they just go to the floor? And no braking?
Trying to find more bits and pieces. Possibly, it's a matter of opening the bleeder screws, one side and pedal at a time, and bleeding the brakes as you would any vehicle with hydraulic brakes. Generally a two person job, who work welll together. lol
Trying to find more bits and pieces. Possibly, it's a matter of opening the bleeder screws, one side and pedal at a time, and bleeding the brakes as you would any vehicle with hydraulic brakes. Generally a two person job, who work welll together. lol