If presence of oil on RH side of engine continues you may have to replace the seal(item 36) part # AF2659R
Good to know, Jim. Thanks. If I need to do that, how big/involved a job is replacing that seal?
If presence of oil on RH side of engine continues you may have to replace the seal(item 36) part # AF2659R
Did you replace that seal? It is more involved than just removing the clutch, you have to remove the first reduction gearbox and a couple gears to get at the bearing housing. When you get the bearing housing off look at part #29 on that same diagram, it is a little seal for the oil passage and can become clogged from swelling and starve the main bearing of oil. I currently have the crank out of my 630 to replace mains for this reason.
David
Follow up question: On the three bolts/studs where the castle/adjusting nuts go, is there more than one hole for the cotter pins to go in? Where I have the castle nuts adjusted to currently it almost appears that they are too far down the threads for the cotter pins to hold them (if that makes sense). Unless there are other holes further down, it makes me wonder if I don’t need to pull the part to get at the clutch facing in the back to inspect it. Seems like maybe it’s worn so thin that I have to tighten the castle nuts beyond where they’re intended to be.Everything there looks fine. In fact, far better than mine did when I took it apart. But all those parts look to be fine. Mine wasn't slipping, it was rusted and stuck.
I ordered new friction disks (Steiner tractor) and a new one shiny disk with the teeth on the inside. Was going to order springs, but cleaned up the old ones instead.
I did not take mine apart any farther than you have yours. Then reassembling I noticed that someone years before had put an extra friction disk into mine. I removed it and only used the parts just exactly like it shows in the manual.
Adjusted it so that it was too tight for the clutch lever to engage and then loosened the springs until the hand clutch lever engaged with a snap... and then a bit farther to make it easier to do.
Worked fine.
If I didn't know better I would say all yours needs is to get the adjustment right between the spring nuts and the over-center mechanism in the clutch lever. The parts look fine.
There are some more parts if you disassemble it farther - But I only know that because I see them in the parts book. I've never done that.
rScotty
Follow up question: On the three bolts/studs where the castle/adjusting nuts go, is there more than one hole for the cotter pins to go in? Where I have the castle nuts adjusted to currently it almost appears that they are too far down the threads for the cotter pins to hold them (if that makes sense). Unless there are other holes further down, it makes me wonder if I don’t need to pull the part to get at the clutch facing in the back to inspect it. Seems like maybe it’s worn so thin that I have to tighten the castle nuts beyond where they’re intended to be.