JD 630 clutch slipping

   / JD 630 clutch slipping
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Lack of sufficient hole for cotter key when adjusting nut is in place suggests that linings aren't within spec's &/or toggles(item 19) & dogs(item 18) have too much wear. Also gear could have moved in clutch operating sleeve.
Update: I found there are in fact two sets of holes in the toggles for the cotter pins. (Kind of tough to see, but you can make out both holes in these pics.) When I tighten the adjusting nuts to where they need to be they are past where the first set of holes are effective, but not the second set of holes, so perhaps things are still in spec after all.

Next question: When I adjusted the nuts to where the clutch snapped in and out nicely, I was still able to turn the pulley (with a little effort) by hand. I thought I saw in a YouTube video about adjusting these clutches that with the clutch engaged, the pulley shouldn’t be able to be turned by hand. Does that sound right? It was the same both with the tractor in gear and in neutral.
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   / JD 630 clutch slipping #23  
With hand clutch lever pushed forward, snapped in one should be able to turn clutch pulley & engine crankshaft simultaneously but not independently.
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping #24  
Update: I found there are in fact two sets of holes in the toggles for the cotter pins. (Kind of tough to see, but you can make out both holes in these pics.) When I tighten the adjusting nuts to where they need to be they are past where the first set of holes are effective, but not the second set of holes, so perhaps things are still in spec after all.

Next question: When I adjusted the nuts to where the clutch snapped in and out nicely, I was still able to turn the pulley (with a little effort) by hand. I thought I saw in a YouTube video about adjusting these clutches that with the clutch engaged, the pulley shouldn’t be able to be turned by hand. Does that sound right? It was the same both with the tractor in gear and in neutral.
View attachment 766517View attachment 766517View attachment 766515
Well, I'm sorry this is being so difficult. Those old two cylinder JD clutches are usually a afternoon job at most. I'll bet when you get it right you will find it has been something simple

But I think you are on the right track asking about the pulley being able to be turned by hand. I will check mine tomorrow both in gear and not...and with the clutch disengaged and snapped in both. I want to make sure I have it right, and it's dark and tractor under a tarp right now.

I used to set mine so that the snap-in was very positive and took a little bit of force to snap it in. But for the last ten or twenty years I've been running it so that it snaps in very easily. Seems to work just as well.

Anyway I'll check mine in those ways tomorrow. Then we'll know the answer to one question at least.
rScotty
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping #25  
Well, I'm sorry this is being so difficult. Those old two cylinder JD clutches are usually a afternoon job at most. I'll bet when you get it right you will find it has been something simple

But I think you are on the right track asking about the pulley being able to be turned by hand. I will check mine tomorrow both in gear and not...and with the clutch disengaged and snapped in both. I want to make sure I have it right, and it's dark and tractor under a tarp right now.

I used to set mine so that the snap-in was very positive and took a little bit of force to snap it in. But for the last ten or twenty years I've been running it so that it snaps in very easily. Seems to work just as well.

Anyway I'll check mine in those ways tomorrow. Then we'll know the answer to one question at least.
rScotty

OK... It took me a few days, but I remembered to do what I'd promised.
All of this is with the MOTOR NOT RUNNING:

With the hand clutch pulled back & not snapped in & transmission in neutral the belt pulley rotates freely. I can give it a spin with my hand and it makes maybe three revolutions. Smooth as silk. No drag at all.

If I leave the clutch like that - back and NOT snapped in - and put it into 1st or rev. gear the belt pully won't spin freely, but it is fairly easy to rotate for about a half a turn and then it gets real hard to turn and I can't rotate it any farther. But at that point I can see and feel that the back tires are trying to turn - and also see that the brake drum is trying to turn. A person might say I have half a revolution of slop in my 1st and rev. gears.

If I leave it all the same as above but put the shifter into 3rd, everything is just the same except that I only have about a quarter of a revolution of slop before turning the belt pulley begins to move the rear tire and brake drum. Shift into high - 5th - and the slop is almost zero. Maybe a tenth of a revolution before the tire and brake pulley begin to move. Brake pulley is jerking back and forth fast enough that it clanks a little.

Now if I snap the clutch in, it doesn't make a bit of difference if I am in neutral or any gear. I cannot get that belt pully to rotate a fraction of an inch. I tried everything. Mine doesn't snap real hard, but once snapped, that pulley might as well be welded. It isn't going to move at all.

All done without starting the motor.
Hope something helps.
rScotty
 
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   / JD 630 clutch slipping
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thanks, rScotty. This is helpful info. I'll try repeating the steps you outlined with my tractor and see what results I get.
 
 
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