JD D100 series

   / JD D100 series #11  
Its interesting to see the many comments discouraging the entry level Deere's. I purchased a John Deere D100 this year for a very challenging 2 acre landscape area. By way of background, I have been paying yard maintenance companies between 20,000-24000 per year in yard maintenace costs. I didnt have any of my own equipment up to that point as the companies brought equipment. I decided to hire a full time groundskeeper for our residence figuring I would get a much better value out of having an employee all year round. We looked at many different solutions, and found that we were limited due to a rather steep hillside of lawn thats about a 1/4 acre size along with some very tight contoured areas. Additionally we were unable to go larger than a 42" deck as we have a gate that limits width and some tight area's.
Almost all forums and review sites tell me that I should have gone to a Kawasaki, $3000 type unit. In all honesty, cost was not a problem for me but I also didnt want to waste money if it wasnt necessary. One of the main necessities if doing anything on a hill is fully pressurized oil system. My single Cylinder Briggs 17.5HP has been flawless for 100 hours so far of what I would consider pretty heavy use. The 1/4 acre hill is steep enough that at an angle I worry about rolling over! It climbes that up and down now problem. Living in Seattle, its often times mowing thick wet grass. I have a 160 gallon tumbler composter so the mower frquently tows a trailer load of compost/dirt. The deere D100 has also been pulling our plug aerating attachment with about 80 LBS of brick weight on the back and we have used the front thatch attachment a couple of times.
Obviously, 100 hours is not 10 years but this D100 seems to be built well enough to withstand pretty much everything Ive thrown at it in a short period of time.
The criticism I have is that the mower and drive belt's seem like they are a bit on the small and sloppy side. I have only had to tighten them each 1 time, but they could be better. I also wish the turning radius was tighter and in hindsight I would have went with the 110 model for the electrostat shifting. A manual 5 speed can be a PIA if your lawn isnt a big square patch.
Also the Deere rear bagger system clogs easily in moist or slightly longer grass. In the Pacific Northwest, mowing a wet lawn is not an option and having to stop and unclog the bagger in addition to having to run in 1st gear can double the time it takes to mow. WHen its dry, its wonderful!
Overall the D100 is MUCH more capable than many of the posters claim. The irony is that none of the people recommending upgrading are doing it based on any real experience with the D series...
 
   / JD D100 series #12  
Its interesting to see the many comments discouraging the entry level Deere's. I purchased a John Deere D100 this year for a very challenging 2 acre landscape area. By way of background, I have been paying yard maintenance companies between 20,000-24000 per year in yard maintenace costs. I didnt have any of my own equipment up to that point as the companies brought equipment. I decided to hire a full time groundskeeper for our residence figuring I would get a much better value out of having an employee all year round. We looked at many different solutions, and found that we were limited due to a rather steep hillside of lawn thats about a 1/4 acre size along with some very tight contoured areas. Additionally we were unable to go larger than a 42" deck as we have a gate that limits width and some tight area's.
Almost all forums and review sites tell me that I should have gone to a Kawasaki, $3000 type unit. In all honesty, cost was not a problem for me but I also didnt want to waste money if it wasnt necessary. One of the main necessities if doing anything on a hill is fully pressurized oil system. My single Cylinder Briggs 17.5HP has been flawless for 100 hours so far of what I would consider pretty heavy use. The 1/4 acre hill is steep enough that at an angle I worry about rolling over! It climbes that up and down now problem. Living in Seattle, its often times mowing thick wet grass. I have a 160 gallon tumbler composter so the mower frquently tows a trailer load of compost/dirt. The deere D100 has also been pulling our plug aerating attachment with about 80 LBS of brick weight on the back and we have used the front thatch attachment a couple of times.
Obviously, 100 hours is not 10 years but this D100 seems to be built well enough to withstand pretty much everything Ive thrown at it in a short period of time.
The criticism I have is that the mower and drive belt's seem like they are a bit on the small and sloppy side. I have only had to tighten them each 1 time, but they could be better. I also wish the turning radius was tighter and in hindsight I would have went with the 110 model for the electrostat shifting. A manual 5 speed can be a PIA if your lawn isnt a big square patch.
Also the Deere rear bagger system clogs easily in moist or slightly longer grass. In the Pacific Northwest, mowing a wet lawn is not an option and having to stop and unclog the bagger in addition to having to run in 1st gear can double the time it takes to mow. WHen its dry, its wonderful!
Overall the D100 is MUCH more capable than many of the posters claim. The irony is that none of the people recommending upgrading are doing it based on any real experience with the D series...

Glad to hear your pleased with your D series. I am very pleased with my LA series which the D replaced. But I don't have the property you have. Just one thing I learned about the shoot. Mine came with the JD 3 in 1 blades. Last year I purchased the JD High Lift blades and it cut out about 90% of my clogs. It was like a different mower. You might want to give them a try.
 
   / JD D100 series #13  
kennster,
Most of us take issue with the hydrostat models not the gear model that you have. IIRC, only the smallest D series is available with the gear tranny and all the other models have the K46 hydrostat tranny which is problematic.

Since you have a D series mower can you point out any refinements of consequence that these have over the older L and LA series?
 
   / JD D100 series #14  
In addition to what Steve said, your mower has a manual PTO engagement and the deck probably only has two spindles instead of three. You may well be correct in saying that those of us with disappointments may not have experience with the D100.:thumbsup: I can accept that if you also agree that you have not had experience with the electric PTO clutch and three spindle 48" deck.:thumbdown: The 100-series is indeed a series. Your post would make me think that Deere has exceeded the design's ability in the higher end models. I would caution you to not assume that you can upgrade to a D150 with the same success as your D100. The reason many of us suggest the X300 series is that those machines have much better reviews from people who own them. My dealer advised me that the problems with my LA145 are exactly the problems they see in their repair shop. For my specific model, the problems are very real; so much so that I would feel bad selling it to somebody as a used mower.:(
 
   / JD D100 series #15  
I just purchaed the new D-120 hydrostatic model with the B&S 21hp motor.
My lawn is exactly ½ acre of flat smooth grass, with a total of 3 on the property. I wouldn't dare compare this machine to any of the more expensive JD lawn tractors out there that some of you have, then again, I don't need a $3000.00 +++ machine to simply......cut grass. In fact, if I weren't so lazy, I could cut my lawn with a 3hp push mower, which would take me about 2 or so hours, and would get the job done nicely. However, so far, I'm pleased as punch with my little D120, and I hope it'll last as long as my olde 87 John Deere 160, which was a simple 12hp Kawasaki gear driven little tractor. Still runs great, and I sold it to my neighbour. Anyway, I've learned in life (the hard way), that sometimes....less is more....which certainly applies in my case. :thumbsup:
 
   / JD D100 series #16  
I just purchaed the new D-120 hydrostatic model with the B&S 21hp motor.
My lawn is exactly ス acre of flat smooth grass, with a total of 3 on the property. I wouldn't dare compare this machine to any of the more expensive JD lawn tractors out there that some of you have, then again, I don't need a $3000.00 +++ machine to simply......cut grass. In fact, if I weren't so lazy, I could cut my lawn with a 3hp push mower, which would take me about 2 or so hours, and would get the job done nicely. However, so far, I'm pleased as punch with my little D120, and I hope it'll last as long as my olde 87 John Deere 160, which was a simple 12hp Kawasaki gear driven little tractor. Still runs great, and I sold it to my neighbour. Anyway, I've learned in life (the hard way), that sometimes....less is more....which certainly applies in my case. :thumbsup:


Using your 1/2 acre lawn as an example I would have preferred the D100 with the manual tranny if I wanted to expect the long life of your Deere 160. If all you need it for is to cut this small plot the D120 will last quite awhile but I doubt you will get 24 years out of it without transmission problems. That is the point that most of us who own these 100 series are trying to make.
 
   / JD D100 series #17  
Using your 1/2 acre lawn as an example I would have preferred the D100 with the manual tranny if I wanted to expect the long life of your Deere 160. If all you need it for is to cut this small plot the D120 will last quite awhile but I doubt you will get 24 years out of it without transmission problems. That is the point that most of us who own these 100 series are trying to make.

Since reading your comment, I've searched high and low on the Internet about the hydrostatic transmission problems you claim that all D series JD lawn tractors have. I've read some negative reviews on the D series, as well as some positive ones, the latter being more. I've also read some negative and positive reviews on the X300, again, that latter being more. So, there isn't a machine out there that is perfect and will please all of the people all of the time. I paid $1,199.00 CAD for my D-120 on sale. I agree, it's not, and will never be anything like the X300 and up lawn tractors, but it also isn't $5000.00 +++ either. (how many D 120 transmissions is that?) In my case, I need a lawn tractor that will 'cut grass' on a half acre of flat land...hardly need a high end Deere, Kubota, Cub Cadet etc to take on such a small job. I'm sure my little D120 will do just fine if driven and taken care properly. Time will tell, and I will be the first one to come back and eat crow, if I do end up with a tranny problem eventually. Time will tell I guess. :drink:
 
   / JD D100 series #18  
Ray, I think you will be fine. Your PTO is manually engaged and the deck is two-blade. If you keep your spindles well greased and are very sensitive to the sound of idler pulleys going bad, you probably won't have many problems. You may wish for a dual cylinder engine at some point, but in the case of the D100 series, I honestly think less is more. The higher end models of this series have things that cause them to not be reliable. My guess is you will be fine. I surely hope so and hope you will stay around and post what you think two or three years down the line.:)
 
   / JD D100 series #19  
Ray, I think you will be fine. Your PTO is manually engaged and the deck is two-blade. If you keep your spindles well greased and are very sensitive to the sound of idler pulleys going bad, you probably won't have many problems. You may wish for a dual cylinder engine at some point, but in the case of the D100 series, I honestly think less is more. The higher end models of this series have things that cause them to not be reliable. My guess is you will be fine. I surely hope so and hope you will stay around and post what you think two or three years down the line.:)

Thanks Jim, I hope you are right as well. Could you elaborate on what spindles you are talking about. Not sure I follow exactly. (not a mechanic by any means, but I do like to do my own preventive maintenance if possible.)
You can rest assured, that I will gladly post my review on this machine as the months go by, whether my findings are positive or negative. I don't work for JD, so I have nothing to gain by BS'ing to future potential JD owners. If it's not a good machine, I will not be shy to state that I made a bad choice and warn people of my bad experience(s). However, if she proves to be a reliable low maintenance machine, I will gladly share that experience as well.
I think I'm going to like this forum, and hope to learn more as the months go by.
Here's a question, I know this is a no no, but is there any way to disable the (RIO) button, which would allow me to mow in reverse without pressing it down each time. I've been cutting my grass for over 30 years with a lawn tractor, and I've never mowed over anyone or anything going backwards. I realize it's a safey net for some people who can't think responsibly, and make sure the kids and fluffy are not around when grass cutting, but I really find this to be a pain. If I didn't have to push the RIO button each time, I could easily turn around, and see where I'm backing up to.
Any help in that area would be appreciated.
______
Ray
Thanks again.:thumbsup:
 
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   / JD D100 series #20  
Did some research to check on the transmission used on the D120, I found that the D120 uses the TuffTorq T40 transmission. The D160 or D165? and larger (through the x304) use the TuffTorq K46. The K46 is the transmission that alot of us have had problems with. I have no experience with the T40 transmission so I have no opinion on it.
 

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