Jerky project cylinder action

[yarg]

Report on fix?

I installed a needle valve at the large diameter end of the ram and a low pressure cartridge in the spool valve.
Result:

Adjusted for 1400 psi and a very slow fill the mast is easily controlled and at low mid rpm the engine/ pump system works hard but does not stall.

A propotional valve would have worked but at a higher cost and more mounting and hoses.

It is ready for a trial run?...??? Still 10 degrees and two feet of snow so it will be a couple of months.
When I do, I will take pics and report even if there are troubles. Promise

One more note on it:
I made my own water swivel and tested it with 100 psi air with no problems. The real test will be pumping well mud through it for hours on end.
Thanks to everyone for your input and all else.
Gray

 

[bigdeano]

Way to go. Hope it does what you want. I presume you need all the wells for earth coupled heating. I hope your ground isn't too hard. Boulders are a bummer to drill through. When I had my water well drilled here they had to drill through about 10 feet of big granite boulders. That big drill rig was bouncing and making a heck of a racket.

 

[yarg]

Way to go. Hope it does what you want. I presume you need all the wells for earth coupled heating. I hope your ground isn't too hard. Boulders are a bummer to drill through. When I had my water well drilled here they had to drill through about 10 feet of big granite boulders. That big drill rig was bouncing and making a heck of a racket.

I will be drilling only water wells as the average ground temp around here is not good for geothermal and I am not a fan of using it here. Being an HVAC contractor as well, I have seen many systems around here be abandoned a few years after set up because of average ground temps and electrical costs.
The rock formations here are mostly sand stone so a drag bit sould do just fine. Also this is a rotary only rig thus no pounding

Will report when used!
Gray

 

[CJONE]

One more note on it:
I made my own water swivel and tested it with 100 psi air with no problems. The real test will be pumping well mud through it for hours on end.
Thanks to everyone for your input and all else.
Gray[/QUOTE]

As you probably already know grease fittings and lotsa grease!! Did you use packing or o-rings?

 

[bigdeano]

One thing you will have to watch when you start using this is your hydraulic oil temperature. Running a hydraulic motor, almost half your horsepower gets turned into heat. I have a hydraulic tiller on my garden tractor. From the published figures for the pump and motor, 19 hp input gives me 10 hp output. The oil gets hot fast. I don't have an oil cooler so I have to stop and let it cool off before finishing the garden. Those laser thermometers make it easy to keep track of the temp. You probably will need a cooler if you don't already have one.

The rig I mentioned previously was a rotary, it was the bit hitting the rocks that was making it jump.

 

[yarg]

One more note on it:
I made my own water swivel and tested it with 100 psi air with no problems. The real test will be pumping well mud through it for hours on end.
Thanks to everyone for your input and all else.
Gray

As you probably already know grease fittings and lotsa grease!! Did you use packing or o-rings?[/QUOTE]

Never looked at O-rings but did think of HP srping loaded ceramic seals until I looked at the price
I ended up using an HP graphite marine packing material two layers deep with a 1/16" clearance on a 1.5 inch shaft with double bearings and grease fittings to all.
I have it in a flow through not a T shape so the open end of the drill pipe shaft can recieve full flow.
I hope this works????

Gray

 

[CJONE]

As you probably already know grease fittings and lotsa grease!! Did you use packing or o-rings?

Never looked at O-rings but did think of HP srping loaded ceramic seals until I looked at the price
I ended up using an HP graphite marine packing material two layers deep with a 1/16" clearance on a 1.5 inch shaft with double bearings and grease fittings to all.
I have it in a flow through not a T shape so the open end of the drill pipe shaft can recieve full flow.
I hope this works????

Gray[/QUOTE]

Be happy you did not use ceramic, it does not hold up to anything but clean fluids. The rope packing is the way to go. We also have teflon packing here if you want to try that if the graphite does not hold up but it should as long as it is not overtightened. CJ

 

[yarg]

Thanks,
I may but I think my graphite is on Teflon fiber? Good to know that the ceramic woukd have been a losser! Those seals are super expensive, high speed and would have changed my design.
How tight is tight?
Gray

 

[CJONE]

Thanks,
I may but I think my graphite is on Teflon fiber? Good to know that the ceramic woukd have been a losser! Those seals are super expensive, high speed and would have changed my design.
How tight is tight?
Gray

The correct way to adjust packing is to leave it loose the start the unit up and slowly tighten until it just dripps. If you tighten it up too tight till it is dry you will burn it and have to repack the swivel. The slow drip will lubricate and cool the packing. If you grease it frequently it can be reduced to a very slow drip but you have to keep it greased. CJ

 

[yarg]

Cjone,
What pump did you use for your swivel?
I see Gorman Rupp trash pumps, AMT semi trash pumps and dredge pump? I picked up a semi trash for now because I can not find an exactly suited unit.
Ideas?
Thanks,
Gray

 

[CJONE]

Cjone,
What pump did you use for your swivel?
I see Gorman Rupp trash pumps, AMT semi trash pumps and dredge pump? I picked up a semi trash for now because I can not find an exactly suited unit.
Ideas?
Thanks,
Gray

?? Do you mean the power swivels ?? We use big triplex pumps to pump the drilling fluid. On the smaller water well rigs we use a Mission sandmaster to pump the fluids. If you can teel me the rate and pressure you need I can more than likely suggest a pump. I will be starting on a "small" power swivel power unit in a few weeks. As soon as we get the 3406 checked out and back to the shop. That one and the majority of the ones I build [design] have 25 series Sundstrands on them at about 100 GPM at 5000PSI for the hydraulics. CJ

 

[yarg]

Hi CJONE,

I meant that I have a swivel in line above the drill rod power head. It is small for this need--about 1.2 inches in section ID. I am using a 5 HP trash pump for this R&D unit but intend ot use maybe a Flow tec sieries 8 pump with pressurinzed grease seals for mud pumping, up to 45 PSI and 100GPM but likely far less through this system. Also the swivel is home made. I am looking at about 300ft max depth?

 

[CJONE]

Hi CJONE,

I meant that I have a swivel in line above the drill rod power head. It is small for this need--about 1.2 inches in section ID. I am using a 5 HP trash pump for this R&D unit but intend ot use maybe a Flow tec sieries 8 pump with pressurinzed grease seals for mud pumping, up to 45 PSI and 100GPM but likely far less through this system. Also the swivel is home made. I am looking at about 300ft max depth?

Sounds like a trash pump or pressure pump like a 20wx would do, no solids in you mud? CJ

 

[yarg]

Sounds like a trash pump or pressure pump like a 20wx would do, no solids in you mud? CJ

Hi,
I will be using bentonite but will also use a settling system that should keep any big stuff (over 1/4") out of the pump.
Gray

 

[CJONE]

Hi,
I will be using bentonite but will also use a settling system that should keep any big stuff (over 1/4") out of the pump.
Gray

A small centrifical would be nice but that is what a trash or water transfer pump is. Most of the gas powered high pressure [100psi] pumps will handle 1/4" solids. CJ