Jima Y385T powered Mazda Pickup

danthefamilyman · Mar 13, 2006

Thanks for your thoughts, It seems to back up what I am thinking as well. I don't think that it will be too hard, if fact I am looking forward to taking it apart. I want to see how the injectors, valves and cylinder walls look after 200-300 hrs.

I will post pictures of these when I take it apart.

Thanks again...

-Dan-

Affordable · Mar 13, 2006

Dan, you can contact me at
tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com

RonMar · Mar 13, 2006

Yea, I would be curious to see how things look after the conditions you have been running under.

I have a few questions:

Do you start the engine with the compression release?

Do you have a pyrometer on the exhaust to monitor exhaust temps under load.

Cool project. I already filed away the Alternator info for future reference. If my stock 25 amp alternator should quit, I will look for a 60amp Mazda B2600 alternator.

I saw an add a few days ago for a Suzuki Samari that didn't run... HMMM I wonder if a 385 would fit in a Samari? A 4WD Diesel Samari might be cool

.

JINMA224XR · Mar 13, 2006

<font color="blue"> I don't think that it will be too hard, if fact I am looking forward to taking it apart. I want to see how the injectors, valves and cylinder walls look after 200-300 hrs.

I will post pictures of these when I take it apart.
</font>

Hey Dan,

Sorry to hear about the 385, but you will learn a lot about the engine when you take it apart.

Please be sure to take a reading on the Valve lash prior to removing the rocker arm assembly, just for the record. One of the things that was said, that the books valve lash setting causes the engine to get too hot. As per the extensive discussion that we had on Valve lash adjustment in the Owners Forum.

Please keep us posted and please if you can, get some pictures, as I am sure that there are many many, that want to see the inner workings of the YangDong Y385T engine.

Have a nice day,
Joe

danthefamilyman · Mar 14, 2006

Joe,
Thanks for the info, Just to let you know I did check the valve lash. Two of the exhaust valves where tight (less than .005) and two of the intakes where loose (.025)

I set them all at .015 (cold)

Is .015 the right amount of lash?

I will take lots of pictures. My goal is to have it completed this weekend. I am still driving the truck everyday until then.

Thanks,
-Dan-

danthefamilyman · Mar 14, 2006

(Do you start the engine with the compression release?

Do you have a pyrometer on the exhaust to monitor exhaust temps under load.)

Ron,
Thanks for you messages,

Here's the answers to your questions:

No, I do not use the compression release, in fact it isn't even hooked up. I have no problem starting the engine even when it's been out all night in below freezing temperatures. I have noticed that it is starting much better the more hours I put on it. The rings must be well seated and the engine must not be as 'tight'? I run the glow plugs for 20 seconds and then hit the starter, it starts every time even in 15 degree weather.

No, I do not have a pyrometer on the exhaust. I will put one on before I adjust the injection pump for MLA and try a turbo. I would be interested in putting one one as it is, except I don't think there is enough fuel getting into the engine to cause exhaust overheating. I think that Yangdong 'de-tunes' the engines to the point that they are bulletproof.

My goal is to get 50hp out of the Y385 and still have it last 3000 hrs.

We will see....

Thanks again,
-Dan-

RonMar · Mar 14, 2006

I was wondering as I couldn't see any linkage connected to the compression release in your pictures. The advantage of starting with the compression release is that you are not slamming the rod bearings up against a high compression load before there is oil pressure in the crankshaft.

It is probably easier on the starter also.

I always use mine. I am about to the point now where I will add a starter switch to the compression release linkage. Depress clutch, activate comp release and spin up the engine till I see oil pressure(about 2-3 seconds). Release linkage, starter disengages and engine starts.

Please keep the pics and updates comming, very interesting.

greatrandini · Mar 14, 2006

50 hp would be better!

JINMA224XR · Mar 14, 2006

<font color="blue">I did check the valve lash. Two of the exhaust valves where tight (less than .005) and two of the intakes where loose (.025)

I set them all at .015 (cold)

Is .015 the right amount of lash?
</font>

Hey Dan,

After checking the valve lash on my Y380T engine prior, to removing the Rocker Arm Assembly. Mine seemed to be in the 35mm range for the Intakes and 40mm range for the exhaust. So to tell you the truth Dan, I just tried to make the best educated guess, that I could and went with 35mm overnight cold on the intakes, and 40mm overnight cold on the Exhausts.

The valve lash discussion that we had was a pretty long one and involved a lot of learning for me during the discussion.

The discussion was 7 pages long, and I pasted a link to the 6th page, where I finally got around to doing my own engine. Please remember that I am referencing in increments of a Millimeter and others are referenceing valve lash in Increments of the inch

http://nortrac.proboards26.com/index.cgi?board=TY380&action=display&thread=1107491554&page=6

I don't know where the 95 ft/lbs of torque, is coming from for the Headbolts.. But my Engine Operational Manual. Clearly states that on the Y380t engine, the Specified Torque is 150 to 170 N.M. Which is 110 to 125 ft lbs. But my book doesn't list a Y385T, for setting and/or adjusting the valve lash. though

Have you decided, whether you will be going with a Supercharger or a Turbocharger or Just Ram Air?

I've got my fingers crossed and hoping that you Y385 Engine, will perform positively.

Have a nice day,
Joe

greg_g · Mar 15, 2006

Hi Dan

Sounds like you don't have the Y385 engine manuals. Lots of folks complain about them, but they're better than nothing. One is the O&M, the other parts. See the attachment for a copy of an applicable tech data page. There are folks that will argue with the valve lash numbers, so just take them for what they're worth to you.

The compression release linkage is considered a tractor part, as opposed to an engine part. It's composed of horizontal piece of 3/8" round stock bracketed to the frame that supports the fuel tank, steering column, and instrument panel. It's bent about 70 degrees on the operator end to form a handle, and drilled on the engine end to accept a vertical linkage. The vertical rod linkage then connects to the compression release bracket that protrudes from the valve cover. This would be somewhat difficult to reproduce through a pickup dash and firewall, so a stout throttle cable would probably be easier to convert into a compression release pull. I emphasize stout though, as I'm sure you know how much downforce you need to compress those valve springs.

//greg//