Jim's new projects

[pequeajim]

I've got a HILTI laser level like that. It's a really good tool to have and works great too!

I'm thinking that I will spread the stone and place my marker stick on a 2"x4" to get the average level. LTHen just move all over the pad and level ehre necessary. It goes to 100' outside, so I should be in good shape on my 35' x 15' pad.

 

[pequeajim]

How you going to do it with the laser level? Just curious, as I never used one before.

Setup the laser level on the tripod so that it is perfectly level. Now when I turn it on, it will stripe a level line x inches above the ground. I take a straight stick, (2" x 4") and mark it at the same height as the laser.

Now I move the stick around the pad and observe where the laser is in relation to the mark I made. If it is higher than the mark, I am too low in that area. If it is lower, then I'm too high.

I then just spread the stone with a rake, or the bucket, and keep working it until I can walk around with the marker stick and the laser line is right on the mark, (within reason).

It helps to attach a short 18" flat piece on the bottom of the stick. This will help to eliminate the stick going down into a small depression in the stone.

 

[MossRoad]

I've thought about it and thought about attaching a stick to the bucket or box blade and leveling one small area, then marking the stick where the laser hits. That way, I could check level from the tractor seat. I know they have automated equipment that does that for you. I think Blackwell had something like that.

You going to crown it or slope it in any directions?

 

[pequeajim]

You going to crown it or slope it in any directions?

I will slope very slightly to the back where there is a swale down to the stream bed. I plan to blacktop it when I do my driveway.

Jim!

 

[ontheweb]

How you going to do it with the laser level? Just curious, as I never used one before.

Most laser levels, except maybe a Hilti, are really pretty useless outdoors unless its dark out. Just not bright enough nor a sharp enough beam to see it well. They have those laser glasses but, well, they're pretty useless too. The manual-leveling one's are easy to get out of whack because people don't always set the level bubbles too well and that will get you several inches off in 25'.

Sometimes old school is the best. We use water levels for our job sites building decks and stuff. Just a 3/8" plastic clear hose filled with water to set the grade. Faster than you can set up the laser, and easily accurate within 1/8" or less for as long of a hose as you like. The water flows to level within the hose ends. Just move one end up and down to your target mark, and the other end follows. Easy and WAY CHEAPER than a laser and does not wear out or go out of calibration. Packs up really quick and you don't have to worry about it being stolen. I could calibrate a laser level using my water level, by the way. Its that good.

Steve

Steve

 

[toy]

Most laser levels, except maybe a Hilti, are really pretty useless outdoors unless its dark out. Just not bright enough nor a sharp enough beam to see it well. They have those laser glasses but, well, they're pretty useless too. The manual-leveling one's are easy to get out of whack because people don't always set the level bubbles too well and that will get you several inches off in 25'.

Sometimes old school is the best. We use water levels for our job sites building decks and stuff. Just a 3/8" plastic clear hose filled with water to set the grade. Faster than you can set up the laser, and easily accurate within 1/8" or less for as long of a hose as you like. The water flows to level within the hose ends. Just move one end up and down to your target mark, and the other end follows. Easy and WAY CHEAPER than a laser and does not wear out or go out of calibration. Packs up really quick and you don't have to worry about it being stolen. I could calibrate a laser level using my water level, by the way. Its that good.

Steve

Steve[/QUOTI use the clear hose with water in it too to level long distances, I would just like to add I use unsweetened coolaid in the water to make it easier to see the water level and I agree it works.

 

[bbabineau]

Jim

Did you use just the rock for your parking area or did you put road base down before the rock.

I am wanting to put a trailer parking area next to my barn and was debating putting just rock. The supplier suggested using 3 inch of road base first and then another 3 inches of rock. What is the preferred method?

Bob

 

[TRUKFXR]

UNLESS YOU HAVE VERY HEAVY TRAFFIC, SUCH AS SEMI'S, 6''-8'' OF CRUSHED STONE SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. COMPACT BETWEEN 4'' LIFTS.
3'' ROCK WOULD BE A GOOD BASE IF YOUR EXPECTING VERY HEAVY LOADS.
BE SURE AND REMOVE THE TOP SOIL BEFORE SPREADING THE GRAVEL.

FORGOT TO MENTION, IT THE AREA BEING COVERED IS LOW AND GETS A
LOT OF RUNOFF, OR ESPECIALLY SOFT (POOR BASE) THEN IT MAY BE
DESIREABLE TO USE 3'' ROCK.

 

[MossRoad]

I've got a water level and used it a few times. Works great.

 

[pequeajim]

Jim

Did you use just the rock for your parking area or did you put road base down before the rock.

I am wanting to put a trailer parking area next to my barn and was debating putting just rock. The supplier suggested using 3 inch of road base first and then another 3 inches of rock. What is the preferred method?

Bob

I did a larger stone under the 2B stone that provides a little base. I still need to roll it to make sure it will stay flat, but I am waiting until I put the block wall in first.