mrmikey
Veteran Member
'Fraid not, I was going to go all out and do it but the thought petered out and I've never looked anymore.
Not sure....Mike
quicksandfarmer
Veteran Member
On my Jinma 354 the voltage regulator plugs into the fusebox and periodically rattles loose. I press it back in, the idiot light goes out. Someday I'll put a cable tie on it.
Well, I took the battery and the alternator into town to get them tested and the battery tested OK on a voltage test.
Unfortunately, AutoZone requires a code input for connecting alternators to test, and of course they don't list any Jinmas. They did list a bunch of tractors, just not any Jinmas.
I wondering if any of the parts stores in the smaller towns have one of the older testers that doesn't require all the BS to test. I'll call around tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure at this point that it is the alternator.
Now comes the decision to go with OEM or convert. Does anyone have detailed info on how to convert to a Delco 12si? I have found them on ebay.
Thanks
Unfortunately, AutoZone requires a code input for connecting alternators to test, and of course they don't list any Jinmas. They did list a bunch of tractors, just not any Jinmas.
I wondering if any of the parts stores in the smaller towns have one of the older testers that doesn't require all the BS to test. I'll call around tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure at this point that it is the alternator.
Now comes the decision to go with OEM or convert. Does anyone have detailed info on how to convert to a Delco 12si? I have found them on ebay.
Thanks
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I can't seem to find any place that can check the alternator because there are no cross-over codes fro their test equipment.
I just ordered a voltage regulator from Affordable and I'll put that in and see if the voltage climbs up for charging.
If that doesn't fix it, then I guess the alternator is next. If I replace an alternator, I would replace the voltage regulator anyway.
I just ordered a voltage regulator from Affordable and I'll put that in and see if the voltage climbs up for charging.
If that doesn't fix it, then I guess the alternator is next. If I replace an alternator, I would replace the voltage regulator anyway.
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,004
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
You have done the most sensible thing IMHO.
The voltage regulator will tend to walk it's way out of the seating due to vibration. It would be well worth your while to use a ziptie to hold the regulator in place and stop it from vibrating out. I also used some neverseize (is conductive) on the regulator connectors to fill gaps from the slightly undersized connectors/prongs. Compare the new one to the old one and you will probably see a difference in tab thickness.
The voltage regulator will tend to walk it's way out of the seating due to vibration. It would be well worth your while to use a ziptie to hold the regulator in place and stop it from vibrating out. I also used some neverseize (is conductive) on the regulator connectors to fill gaps from the slightly undersized connectors/prongs. Compare the new one to the old one and you will probably see a difference in tab thickness.
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
Sorry ,I'm dribbling in here a little late, I have been dealing with some kidney stones and a bladder tumor,if you have a OHm meter you can check to see if the alternator is putting out, but if the voltage regulator does not tell it to kick in it won't. We replace a lot more voltage regulator than alternators so you may get lucky .
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Paarts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Paarts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Hi Tommy.
Sorry to hear about your stones but even more about the bladder tumor. I hope they can fix all that. With today's medical wonders, we'll all be part android before we hit 70 (knees, hips, etc).
I did check at the battery with a volt meter and I got the following:
12.9 with everything off.
12.48 running.
12.1 running and all lights (which I almost never use).
I'm hoping that it's the regulator. I did already order one from Thomas, so I'll see when it gets here.
If not, I'll be ordering a 4-wire 500 Watt. I do a lot of on and off and short runs, so I definitely want the 500.
I do want to figure out how to put an ammeter or volt meter on it so that I can check the charging status easier.
I will also be putting on a battery kill switch between the battery and the starter.
Thanks for your input.
Sorry to hear about your stones but even more about the bladder tumor. I hope they can fix all that. With today's medical wonders, we'll all be part android before we hit 70 (knees, hips, etc).
I did check at the battery with a volt meter and I got the following:
12.9 with everything off.
12.48 running.
12.1 running and all lights (which I almost never use).
I'm hoping that it's the regulator. I did already order one from Thomas, so I'll see when it gets here.
If not, I'll be ordering a 4-wire 500 Watt. I do a lot of on and off and short runs, so I definitely want the 500.
I do want to figure out how to put an ammeter or volt meter on it so that I can check the charging status easier.
I will also be putting on a battery kill switch between the battery and the starter.
Thanks for your input.
TomJones3
New member
This is a little late, but if you energize the field connection on the alternator and it starts putting out power (ampmeter jumps to "charge" and tractor possibly slows down due to the load), then it's the regulator. Check the wiring from the ignition switch. Sometimes it is the wire, sometimes the switch is damaged, and no power goes to the regulator. If no power goes to regulator then the alternator can't alternate!
