Jinma 284 new owner have some questions

[Northoffrisco]

thanks Ron
I will look at the link,

 

[Northoffrisco]

I have replaced the glow plugs, and it seems to start easier so far, but still take a bit, I have not had my coolant heat plug in so that could part of the issue as its been kinda cold that last couple of times when I started it, so now here is what I'm up against, I going to change all the fluids and filters on this thing, but before I start on that I wanted to check to see why the battery is not charging, I put in a group 31 battery, I doubled check it before I installed it to see how many volts I had, started the tractor and ran a volt meter on the battery and watch it go from 12.8 to 12.3 in no time, of course the tail lights were on and so was the dash. I ran the motor up to around 1800 rpms to see if it would trigger the excite wire but nothing, noticed that the voltage regulator was half hanging out, so I pushed it back in, still nothing, moving forward a week, received the replacement VL from affordable along with a few other things, thank you! and replaced it, connected the battery and fired it up, still the same thing, not charging, went to the back of the fuse block to make sure everything was plugged in and some what tight, still nothing, went to the alternator ran the volt meter on it still nothing, turned the tractor off, disconneted the battery removed the wires off the alternator cleaned every terminal re hooked everything up, started it and ran a volt meter on the battery still no charge, so... everything electrical works with the exception of charging, and the horn now for some reason, as the horn worked last weekend, go figure, could this possibly be the alternator? another issue I have is I cannot not find the correct wiring diagram for this unit. I have this dash

https://affordabletractorsalesco.com/cart/sub_catalog_gallery.php?cid=2045&catid=106&picid=3644&category=Parts%20Center&sub_category=Electrical&scid=102

which I hope this links works
most of the wiring diagrams I have found are for the other dash the rectangle one
so I could some help with this
thanks

 

[Northoffrisco]

I went and had the alternator check today and its no good so now I have the option to run the stock one or go with a GM style,
what are the pro's and con's??
thanks
Bryan

 

[Affordable]

If you decide to use the GM one, remember to remove the voltage regulator, the GM one has it built inside.I know some have done this so they may be able to help you more, but you will need a new belt also, not sure about the mounting brackets and pulley.If you decide to use the OEM we have them in stock just give us a call 979-865-4002

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Rich Waugh]

I've put a Delco 12Si alternator on my 304 Jinma and love it. Remove the OEM voltage regulator, remove the pulley form the old alternator and use on the new one. I got the 3-wire alternator, there is also a 1-wire version. No real difference except the one wire is internally excited and the 3 wire gets its excitation voltage form the battery. Hookup is dead simple and you'll need to get a voltmeter since the new alternator will put out more apmerage that the ammeter in the dash can handle. You want to use the OEM Jinma pulley on the new alternator so that it develops sufficient rpm to energize at normal tractor rpms, since cars generally turn faster. I suggest getting one of the segmentd llink belts sold by Harbor Freight and others. The last forever and run smoother, too. No need to remove stuff to put it on, either. Onm y tractor with the particular alternator I bought, i used the OEM mounts with only a slight modification to the tensioner arm. Easy to do.

There is one advantage to the OEM alternator over the Delcos - the OEM is a TEFC unit, so it is proof against dust and dirt that could damage the Delco, which is an open alternator. In my case, I needed the additional capacity of the Delco to run auxiliary lighting and an inverter power supply, so I t was a no brainer. I now have all the juice I could want and it was cheap, too. I think I paid about $50 for the Delco alternator and the link belt. If you don' tneed/want the additional capacity and work frequently i nfilthy dirty conditions, you might want to stick with the OEM alternator or search out a Delco Marine TEFC unit, but they get pricey.

 

[Northoffrisco]

I'll take a look at both ways to do this, not sure which way to go yet,
I'm in the dirt a lot sandy area's too, but I just want to make sure I do this the correct way so I do not have to do it again
would like to possibly run more accessories at a later time

 

[succor]

No trouble with my 12si. With the newer air flow, works great.

 

[Jasper661]

I just bought a 2004 JM284LE , I have what appears to be a hydrolic oil leak. I am reasonably sure i have located the point where the oil is leaking from. There is a fill point, a large bolt just behind the seat. The bolt appears to be vented, with two ports on opposite sides of the bolt head. One of the ports appears to have some sort of a rubber material in it the other does not and that appears to be the source of the leakage. I only experience leakage when going up a steep incline. Lots of contour on my place in the mountains of E.Oregon.

I am a bit reticent to close up the open port, in case that is a design function, and the leak is a symptom of some other problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks .. J

 

[RonMar]

Yep, that is the vent hole on the hydraulic fill port, and at least one of those holes needs to remain open otherwise it might cause issues with feeding fluid to the pump. You might have been a little overfilled, but since the filler and vent is on the rear end of the reservoir it will burp fluid to the outside when pointed up a steep hill. I actually relocated my vent to nearer the middle of the reservoir as I turned that filler port into a hydraulic return port. Mine dosn't leak anymore with the new port location Here are some pics(click for larger image) of the vent. The first pic is after I made the change. After some examinations with an inspection mirror up inside the case thru the outlet/filter well up in front, I determined I could simply drill a hole in the housing ahead of the hump as there was nothing immediately under that point. I tapped it with a 1/4" NPT tap to take a common hose barb. The blue thing is a fuel filter filled with indicating dessicant to help keep the moisture content in the hydraulic oil low. At the new vent location, you would nearly have to have the tractor on it's side or rear before the fluid reaches the vent port


The second pic is after I made a swivel seat to operate the BH. The dessicant filter was removed while I was doing the seat swivel mod.

 

[Jasper661]

Ron

Thanks for the response, I like the return function. I have only had the tractor for a few days but so far I am liking it. I had an old Massey Ferguson, 1959, I was working with, but it was just getting tired. I was concerned that the Jinma might not power my 5' brush hog. but it does a great job.

Thanks again .. J