SPIKER
Elite Member
Greg:
You are totally missing what I was saying. The BIG FORD relay you are installing is OK for the starter or Glow Plug but is not helping the Factory Wiring & Key Switch ANY.
The COIL of these added relays are what is pulling current THRU the KEY SWITCH. The COIL on the JINMA Starter Sol is not much different that the COIL of the FORD style Starter Solenoid. THAT is the point I'm making not to mention by adding the much larger FORD style vs the smaller cube relays is you are not gaining much of a reduced current thru the key switch.
It (Ford or Bosch Relays) DOES provide better voltage/current TO the STARTER COIL & is better than using the small factory jinma 16awg wires and key switch to fire the jinma starter sol.
What we were talking about .
The COIL amperage / Voltage drop thru the KEY is often what causes issues when starting voltage drops the coil current increases.
This is a problem because of the CURRENT and the factory Jinma Wire Size they used lets too much voltage drop when cranking (or to the glow plugs.)
The "Charge Current" of the relay COILS are extremely high but only for very short time span. This charge current is what creates the magnetic field to pull the metal in and close the high current contacts that pass the current/voltage on and into the (starter motor/brushes or glow plugs.)
The LITTLE BOSCH style cube relays have very small charge current because they have a very small coil. The FORD style relay has a very large coil and a much bigger charge current.
The Terminals for these are generally standard .25 male pins so a connector is not required simple female spade terminals are used. Using the Connector makes these Bosch plug in relays easier but not required. The Terminals on the FORD style relay require Ring Terminals which are just the same but dont plug on without tools.
Mark
You are totally missing what I was saying. The BIG FORD relay you are installing is OK for the starter or Glow Plug but is not helping the Factory Wiring & Key Switch ANY.
The COIL of these added relays are what is pulling current THRU the KEY SWITCH. The COIL on the JINMA Starter Sol is not much different that the COIL of the FORD style Starter Solenoid. THAT is the point I'm making not to mention by adding the much larger FORD style vs the smaller cube relays is you are not gaining much of a reduced current thru the key switch.
It (Ford or Bosch Relays) DOES provide better voltage/current TO the STARTER COIL & is better than using the small factory jinma 16awg wires and key switch to fire the jinma starter sol.
What we were talking about .
The COIL amperage / Voltage drop thru the KEY is often what causes issues when starting voltage drops the coil current increases.
This is a problem because of the CURRENT and the factory Jinma Wire Size they used lets too much voltage drop when cranking (or to the glow plugs.)
The "Charge Current" of the relay COILS are extremely high but only for very short time span. This charge current is what creates the magnetic field to pull the metal in and close the high current contacts that pass the current/voltage on and into the (starter motor/brushes or glow plugs.)
The LITTLE BOSCH style cube relays have very small charge current because they have a very small coil. The FORD style relay has a very large coil and a much bigger charge current.
The Terminals for these are generally standard .25 male pins so a connector is not required simple female spade terminals are used. Using the Connector makes these Bosch plug in relays easier but not required. The Terminals on the FORD style relay require Ring Terminals which are just the same but dont plug on without tools.
Mark
