jinma 354 wont start, dead....

[Coyote machine]

If you're dropping from 14V to 12 V your battery is suspect. It may be taking but not holding a charge under load- glow plugs are a significant enough load to take the battery down if it is weak. As has been said, get a KNOWN to be GOOD battery and then try it. Also doing the relay to reduce the amperage through the key switch is the way to go now and in future. Again, don't jump to what YOU think it is, (solenoid), you are just guessing and that seldom solves this type of situation. Process is: verify BATTERY. Verify grounds, cables to/from chassis/to battery, verify fuses, wiring, components, (key switch, solenoid, starter, alternator, etc.

 

[SPIKER]

Sounds like the Relay is best thing to do BUT the Key Switch SHOULD run the sol by it's self.

1. (MAKE SURE IT IS OUT OF GEAR!)


2. (MAKE SURE IT IS OUT OF GEAR!) Then take a Jumper Wire, from the Starter MAIN BATTERY to the SOL Power (where the KEY Switch sends power) (DID I SAY, MAKE SURE IT IS OUT OF GEAR!)


3. If it CLICKS but does not turn over the SOL is OK but the CONTACTS inside are not making good contact. That is fixable by taking the SOL off and cleaning the Copper Contacts, they are even replaceable if I remember right.


4. If it STARTS then install a Relay as rich suggested as that will solve the low power to the SOL problem (key has too much resistance to fully pull in the SOL.)

Otherwise maybe try one of these



lol. OK probably NOT time for a NEW starter but the cost is not bad form Affordable or many other sources. Heck might even try Amazon but best bet is call Affordable Tractor for your JINMA tractoring needs.

Mark

 

[greg_g]

The Chinese OE wiring simply sucks. I installed both a GP relay and a starter relay on my 35hp. Again, start with a known good battery of no less than 750CCA, get a voltage meter (digital is best for this test), and a friend to help. Put the tranny in neutral, lock the brakes. Set the meter to the lowest scale that will measure 12 volts DC. The keyswitch wire is connected to a small post on the OE solenoid. Put the + lead of the meter on that post. Ground the - lead on bare metal (or - battery post if your lead is long enough). Have friend put tranny in neutral and lock brake pedals. Then have him/her turn the keyswitch to START. Observe the voltage on the meter. 11-12 is acceptable, 9-10 is weak, below that it will likely just click.

The reason the solenoid clicks is that it's being fed insufficient voltage, and again - this is due to a cheap wiring harness and compromised ground points. The same type relay you use for the GPs can be used to augment the substandard OE wiring. But lets finish the voltage check before getting into that process.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree about the relay. I installed one on my Jin ma and no more starting issues.

I used a Ford Starter Relay. Cost $10 and I made up the 10 ga wires.

Chris

 

[SPIKER]

I agree about the relay. I installed one on my Jin ma and no more starting issues.

I used a Ford Starter Relay. Cost $10 and I made up the 10 ga wires.

Chris

You talking about one of these ? (Note a bit over kill and pulls a good bit of power still thru key.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370885508005?lpid=82




I would suggest one of the small BOSCH style relays are plenty for the starter sol and the glow plugs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-50-...NEW-/380806150047?hash=item58a9d0b79f&vxp=mtr



note added some EBAY links they are for the photos.

Mark

 

[Bob Rooks]

I agree about the relay. I installed one on my Jin ma and no more starting issues.

I used a Ford Starter Relay. Cost $10 and I made up the 10 ga wires.

Chris

Didn't you also get one of those gear reduction starters a couple of years ago? I wanted one but they didn't offer it for my engine.

 

[greg_g]

(Note a bit over kill and pulls a good bit of power still thru key.)
1987 88 89 90 91 92 Ford F150 F250 Bronco Starter Relay Solenoid | eBay

No it doesn't. When wired correctly, there is minimal amperage between the keyswitch and the switch post on the relay. That's the whole purpose. The OE glow plug wire is simply moved from the buss bar to the small switch post on the relay. The keyswitch then merely engerizes the relay, not the glow plugs. The relay subsequently makes a high amperage connection between battery and buss bar.

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

No it doesn't. When wired correctly, there is minimal amperage between the keyswitch and the switch post on the relay. That's the whole purpose. The OE glow plug wire is simply moved from the buss bar to the small switch post on the relay. The keyswitch then merely engerizes the relay, not the glow plugs. The relay subsequently makes a high amperage connection between battery and buss bar.

//greg//

Greg the Coil Amperage and subsequent current spike to energize the coil on the FORD style vs those BOSCH cube style is about 10X difference.

BUT the FORD style is LESS than the JINMA coil on the Starter Mag Switch.

That was the point I was attempting to make, not to mention the BOSCH style is 1/5th the cost & much smaller to find a spot to mount. I use Zip Tie and tie it back to the wires. that link above gets you 10 relays for about the cost of 2 of the FORD Starter Sol. style relays.


Mark

 

[Rich Waugh]

I agree with Mark - I used one of the little modular relays and zip-tied it to the wiring next to the starter solenoid. Quick and easy and it works perfectly. I think I paid nine bucks for the relay. The Ford relay would be unnecessary overkill. While it does draw significantly more energizing current than the little Bosch type relays, the actual amount is low enough that the OEM wiring will easily handle it. I just don't see any reason to use a relay that heavy duty when a lesser one will do the job perfectly well.

 

[greg_g]

Not surprisingly I guess, but I disagree. The links went to (a) a grossly overpriced Ford relay, and (b) an incorrect Bosch "cube type" relay. Ford types can still be found for under $10 (net). Given that they're used on Ford cars/trucks/tractors worldwide, why would they be "overkill" on a Chinese diesel engine in America? Plus - for a safe and proper solid state relay installation - they should be plugged into a wired relay receptacle. Not saying there's anything wrong with using a proper relay kit, just that the argument that it's cheaper doesn't fly.

And Mark, you're talking about amperage on the 10AWG primary wire that connects battery/relay/buss bar. That amperage is electrically isolated from the small post to which the HEAT position on the keyswitch is connected. The keyswitch is merely a low amperage trigger that energizes the high amperage side of the relay.

//greg//