Jinma gland nut removal wtf

[DonRina]

OK, finally got them turning and one completely off. Used my original setup of a pin type gland wrench modified into two slotted bolts also held in by my welding vice grips and a 4’ pipe. The stick one was the most difficult. Now I have to I’d all the parts I’ll need for the rebuild.

 

[Doz]

Send it out have it done and they will stand behind their work

 

[NYlumberman]

Glad it worked, when I looked at your set up, thought you had your spanner set up for tightening. In the mills we always put the swing arm under tension, not compression. That type of nut would take a spanner with a swing arm that would look similar to a puller arm. It would grip tighter with more force. Not easy as easy to find as a drift. So I removed many that way when a machine was down.

 

[aircommuter]

Kinda late, but the first thing I do is wrap the cylinder rod with layers of tape in case my 4” pipe wrench slips off.

 

[Bob435]

Been there with my Bobcat x320 stick cylinder. End buying new barrel and nut. Rebuilt dozens of cylinders but this one got me.

When going back together, give a good coating of never-seize on the gland nut threads for the next time.

A well equipped hydraulic shop will have fixture to hold the barrel in place and an adapter to perfect fit gland nut. A hydraulic cylinder is used to rotate the gland nut adapter.

Bob G.

 

[aircommuter]

I find that loosening the gland before removing the cylinder is good if possible. Tapping on the barrel where the threads are with brass hammer can help too. Sometimes I have resorted to heat on older machines. I have rebuilt dozens on the machine, most of the time the barrel doesn’t need work.

 

[5030]

Once you’re confident there’s no locking screw then a longer cheater pipe is probably the answer. You could try having an assistant hammer against that notch with a chisel while you turn the wrench.

Sounds to me like an exercise in buggering up the fitting to me.

 

[LDCravey]

I’ve been trying to remove the gland nut off my 2005 Jinma 354 backhoe which is a LW8. Haven’t had much success yet so I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I did buy a gland nut wrench but the inserts are for a pin type and I wasn’t able to find a Jinma style one. I did modify two bolts to fit the Jinma openings and also used a large welding vice grip to keep the modified nuts in place. Added a 4’ bar to increase the force but no joy.

I have a number of similar nuts to remove for the seal replacements on the backhoe so need to get this done.

Thanks for any help. Kind of a newby on hydraulics.

Don B

Here are the spanner wrench tools to remove the type of gland nut you have.

Amazon.com

 

[qualsite]

One my FEL, I removed the cylinder, put it in the big vise, and thumped it all the way around with a chisel a few times, then big pipe wrench with a big cheater pipe. Actually, that was a whole lot easier and less frustrating job than putting the front seal in, even with a seal compressor. If a cylinder shop will do it for a reasonable price, probably the way to go if you are replacing seals.

 

[aircommuter]

I have spanners like those and the three pin ones used on Case tractors too. But when they are so tight the pins break off one must resort to other things.