Jinma254 Alternator swap to Delco 10si, old regulator wiring???

[tigers2007]

I did a "rough test" yesterday not only with the existing (+) to the alternator but with an 8g wire going directly from the alternator to the battery cable located at the starter (essentially directly to the battery). It showed that the ammeter does still deflect to the left if I put a large load on the system (glow plugs). For the record, it does not deflect as much but still shows a discharge is in progress.

For now I'm held hostage in the bracket department. I'm thinking about attempting to add one of these:

 

[Bob Rooks]

Perhaps just a shorter belt or relocate the other arm end to the thermostat housing?

 

[greg_g]

I did a "rough test" yesterday not only with the existing (+) to the alternator but with an 8g wire going directly from the alternator to the battery cable located at the starter (essentially directly to the battery). It showed that the ammeter does still deflect to the left if I put a large load on the system (glow plugs). For the record, it does not deflect as much but still shows a discharge is in progress.

That's because electricity seeks the path of least resistance, and is why I recommended you also upgrade the ammeter wiring. Presumably your 8ga is copper. As such it has less resistance per foot than does the undersized copper in the factory wiring harness. I seem to recall most of the wiring is 16ga, except through the ammeter which I think is 14ga.

Anyway - once you use the same gauge wiring for both, you'll no longer see any difference in meter movement. Nothing's harmed, it's just an object lesson; upgrade the ammeter wiring coincident with the adding the optional charging wire.

//greg//

 

[sjb]

I did a "rough test" yesterday not only with the existing (+) to the alternator but with an 8g wire going directly from the alternator to the battery cable located at the starter (essentially directly to the battery). It showed that the ammeter does still deflect to the left if I put a large load on the system (glow plugs). For the record, it does not deflect as much but still shows a discharge is in progress.

For now I'm held hostage in the bracket department. I'm thinking about attempting to add one of these:

The only reason that you are seeing any deflection , is because there is resistance in your wiring.

With and output of your alternator connected directly to your battery, and also connected to the existing (+) wire you have a connection from the alternator to both sides of the ammeter. Basically current can travel from your battery down your new 8 gauge wire to the alternator stud, and continue down the original (+) wire to the dash, bypassing the ammeter. The ammeter presents a small amount of resistance in the circuit, and there is some resistance in your alternator wiring, probably in the original (+) wire, so the current is being split between the 2 paths causing the ammeter to read less than the actual current flow.

If you want your ammeter to work correctly, remove your new 8 gauge wire. If you feel that you need to upgrade your wiring, replace the existing (+) wire with some 8 gauge.

If you leave the 8 gauge wire connected to the battery, and remove the original (+) wire the ammeter will show a correct reading of the current drawn by your lights etc, but you will have no way of knowing if the current is being supplied by the battery or the alternator.

I would recommend wiring so that the ammeter works correctly. One of the drawbacks of that alternator hookup through the warning light, is that if the light burns out the alternator will stop working. If you have a working ammeter you will be able to detect that the alternator is not working.

Stan

 

[tigers2007]

I will be upgrading the wiring (4) from the alternator to the panel to at least 10g. Also, I noticed that the trouble light is lit when the engine is off, key-on. That will be a good indicator for a bulb test. I might want to invest in getting a more serviceable bulb that is made for a more high vibration environment vs. my Radio Shack special. I'm going to have to get some sort of alternator bracket AND a new belt (has the original "Elephant Ball" brand that is chopped up a little bit...).

 

[Bob Rooks]

Tigers, something is really different with your OEM installation. I installed a 12Si (72 amp) single-wire alternator on my TY395 engine and it had the same footprint and used the same adjusting arm as the Chinese alternator. Even used the same pulley, and have no issues with low output or self excitation. I also tossed my Chinese belt in favor of a linked belt - the last belt I will ever have to buy.:thumbsup:

 

[tigers2007]

I have a Agracat 2940Super (Jinma 254) with the Yangdong Y385. I need the bracket to be longer and to go "out and up" to fit it. After reading over and over about how it fits-right-in, I'm fairly disappointed as that is surely not the case. I'll make it work though, hopefully I can get one of those extender brackets like above and then weld it to the original piece. I might have to make some sort of relief bar to another bolt as I don't know if the little hydro pump bolt will hold such stress especially with the new angle all by itself.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I wouldn't attach anything to the hydraulic pump if at all possible.
I think I see where the differences are; The Y485 engine probably has a different OEM alternator mounting foot and/or mounting location than the TY series engines.

If you want a good vibration-proof indicator light, I recommend a LED.

 

[tigers2007]

The original alternator mount utilizes a bolt on the hydro pump (or at least the pump-gear box in front of the actual hydro-pump). I agree though as the bolts are tiny for holding such a dense device. I was going to go the LED route (and regret I didn't too) but I read some noise about how it wouldn't have enough resistance compared to an incandescent bulb to allow the alternator to charge. Idiot me forgot that I could just throw in a bigger resistor.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Why money with a new bracket when you need a new belt. Just get one the right length. Just get it mounted up then place the alternator in the middle of the bracket so there is adjustment. I then take a piece of rope and wrap it around and tie it off then take that and the old belt to the parts store to get the right length and width.

Chris