John Deere 212 points installation

[collector121]

Hello everyone. I have an old John Deere 212 (a 1986 to be exact) that I am replacing the points and condenser on. I can replace the condenser with no problem but Im having a little trouble with the point. Are you supposed to turn the flywheel so the rod is all the way out and then gap it? Is the correct gap stil .020" ? Any comments/suggestions will be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[Eric Barney]

I am not familiar with that particular engine, and it's points setting. But setting points in general is always the same. Turn the engine so the points are all the way open, then set the gap. Rotate the engine a few turns, then turn to open the points and recheck the gap. Make sure that the points are closing fully during rotation, then open to the specified gap. Spark occurs when the points open. The coil is 'charged' when they are closed.

 

[oldnslo]

Hello everyone. I have an old John Deere 212 (a 1986 to be exact) that I am replacing the points and condenser on. I can replace the condenser with no problem but Im having a little trouble with the point. Are you supposed to turn the flywheel so the rod is all the way out and then gap it? Is the correct gap stil .020" ? Any comments/suggestions will be appreciated! Thanks!

What engine is in your 212? If a Kohler you may have the option of using a timing light Vs static timing by point gap. On my old 112 (1973) the static timing method never allowed the engine to run as well as the live timing light method.

 

[collector121]

1986 Kohler k301

 

[Eric Barney]

I agree with oldnslo. Point gap will affect timing. A larger gap will advance the timing, smaller = ******. If you do not have a timing light, try setting the gap slightly smaller, or larger to see if there is an improvement either way. Though most point gaps are rarely larger tha .020"