John Deere 3120 against a Kubota Grand L3130

[NewHollandDLR]

epic6500sr,

You could also look at the 3203 - depending on what your needs are. The 3203 is a direct-injected (vs. the L3130's indirect-injection) 32hp unit with our older linkage style Hydrostatic transmission (instead of the electronically controlled eHydro on the 3x20 Series) and rigid ROPS.

The 3203 is one of our "Advantage" series tractors, so there are no options like a mid PTO or rear hydraulic outlets available. The "300" is the only loader available, and it is a little light in the lifting department - 547# for the "300" vs. 997# for the "300X" and 1,047# for the "300CX". (all weights are at full height, (88" on the 300 and 300X, 101" on the 300CX) at 500mm in front of the pivot point) This is due to smaller pumps running at lower pressure. (3203 implement pump is one full GPM lower, and 350 psi less than the implement pump on the 3x20 Series) Again, depending on what you need to do, these differences may push you back to the 3120 or 3320...

I would definitely recommend that you drive them both - preferably one after the other - as there is a definite difference in the "feel" of the pedals. If you have driven a Kubota L3x30 series with the HST transmission, it is also linkage controlled, so it should feel more like the 3203.

The difference in cost is pretty substantial: The 32hp 3203 Tractor with 300 Loader lists for $18,449.00, while the 29.5hp 3120 Tractor with 300X Loader lists for $20,621.00 and the 32.5hp 3320 Tractor with 300CX Loader lists for $22,226.00! If the lower specs on the 3203 / 300 are not a problem for what you are doing, it must just be the "right" tractor for you. Anyway, I hope I was of some help.

You can indeed put a 300X or CX on a 3203 tractor. I do it all the time at my dealership. The 3203 and the 3320 have the same pumps in them. You can even put the 447 hoe on this tractor.

JD DLR

 

[DrainPondDesign]

We considered the JD 3320 & Kubota B3030 cab models, lurked on both forums for a year reading praise & complaints for each & test drove both.

Both dealers were great & offered good deals but we went with the JD even though it cost more.

From these forums we felt that the JD's in general had less problems & that factory support was much better for JD.

The Kubota we test drove had vibration issues that could numb your hands & feet at PTO speeds (~2,500 rpms) & the seat was stock was uncomfortable.

We like the JD e-hydro load match that automatically adjusts forward speed to changing load conditions for loader & blower work.

We did not see "fat" on either machine but the JD weighs about 1000lb more making it cheaper per lb?

The Kubota dealer showed us that you move your foot to either the front or rear of the single forward/reverse threadle so that vs the JD dual pedal issue went away.

The Kubota had a minimal alternator compared to the JD for all of the lights on a cab model.

To be fair this is our first tractor & we have no owner experience with the Kubota but in our opinion the JD's higer cost was worth it to us for the reasons above. Our JD is less than a year old & we have no compaints so far.

Hope this helps

Bill

 

[Raddad]

Are you really going to purchase a $30.000.00 tractor just to mow 5 acres you don't even own? Have you checked with the land owner or developer? Perhaps you should rent a tractor twice a year or hire someone to mow.

 

[Silver_Knight]

Buy an old 8n for 2k.

 

[putt_putt_green]

I agree with the 8N comment. For running a brush hog, it's all you would need. Should you later decide you want more (like a FEL), buy a new tractor at that time and sell the 8N.

 

[gary_dsc]

Why is this relevant after 8 months?