John Deere 755 Newbie

[Moukie]

Thanks JD855guy. The oil light was on at very low throttle when i bought it. It was a quart low, and sooty, so i added a new quart and light never came back. The day after, i changed oil and filter and have run it 5-10 minutes. The oil light then came on and stayed on, even at WOT. I will have to fab up some type of manual gauge today to see just what is going on.

Engine runs and sounds great, so i really was not expecting this too.

Thank you again,
David in SC

 

[Agvg]

The easy thing to test is a new oil pressure switch. But worn bearings in the engine will give low pressure when the engine is warm.

 

[pipsqueek]

My 855 requires moving the throttle to full when starting then I pull it back some before it revs all the way when it starts. I believe the cause is a sticking fuel cutoff solenoid. If I try to start at a low throttle setting it starts and hunts. I can manually pull the solenoid rod back and it will run smooth. Not sure why it makes a difference staring with the throttle on full but it does.

Had exact same problem with my 455, eventually the fuel shutoff solenoid stopped working, replaced it and all was good.

 

[pipsqueek]

BTW, my EB does not work either. I found the copy of the service manual I bought on EBay was useless on addressing that problem so it looks like another visit to the dealer.

I also bought a service manual from Selectmanuals.com, then happened across genuine one for free online, probably where selectmanuals got their copy. Grrrr.

http://golftechs.us/demo/index.php/links?task=weblink.go&id=266

Adjust e-brake, section 260-10 in manual.



Also CTM3 engine manual also online from Weekend freedom machines

http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/manuals/CTM3.pdf

 

[Moukie]

Well i feel pretty good about the oil pressure sending unit working properly. I got it up to temp this evening and every time i dropped to base idle, the light came on. As i increased throttle, the light went away, but it took a pretty good RPM before it stayed off. Why in the world did this not happen when i looked at it? I am a little frustrated, as this likely means going in engine.
I tried to remove sending unit to put in a mechanical gauge, but i don't have correct socket. 1" does not work, nor does 1 1/16. Maybe a 26mm will get it; i will borrow one from work tomorrow.

Manual states 53 +/- 10 is operating psi. Any idea what it has to drop to before light comes on, and how bad this really is?
Any thoughts on just doing rod and main bearings without complete overhaul? I am exploring all options at this point, including bailing out and cutting my losses.

Thank you in advance.
David in SC

 

[pmsmechanic]

Well i feel pretty good about the oil pressure sending unit working properly. I got it up to temp this evening and every time i dropped to base idle, the light came on. As i increased throttle, the light went away, but it took a pretty good RPM before it stayed off. Why in the world did this not happen when i looked at it? I am a little frustrated, as this likely means going in engine.
I tried to remove sending unit to put in a mechanical gauge, but i don't have correct socket. 1" does not work, nor does 1 1/16. Maybe a 26mm will get it; i will borrow one from work tomorrow.

Manual states 53 +/- 10 is operating psi. Any idea what it has to drop to before light comes on, and how bad this really is?
Any thoughts on just doing rod and main bearings without complete overhaul? I am exploring all options at this point, including bailing out and cutting my losses.

Thank you in advance.
David in SC

Up until now you are just speculating on your oil light problem. It might just be a faulty sender or something simple. It's not costly to buy a pressure gauge at a hardware store and screw it in where the oil pressure light switch is. Then you know what your engine is doing.

Usually oil pressure fittings are 1/8" pipe thread which is the same as grease gun hose. If the engine sender is in too tight a spot for just the gauge, get a grease gun hose, a pipe union the right size and a gauge. Install it on your engine and observe.

Edited to add that if you use a "T" fitting you can also attach your present sender at the same time and you can see at what pressure the light comes on.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Up until now you are just speculating on your oil light problem. It might just be a faulty sender or something simple. It's not costly to buy a pressure gauge at a hardware store and screw it in where the oil pressure light switch is. Then you know what your engine is doing.

Usually oil pressure fittings are 1/8" pipe thread which is the same as grease gun hose. If the engine sender is in too tight a spot for just the gauge, get a grease gun hose, a pipe union the right size and a gauge. Install it on your engine and observe.

Edited to add that if you use a "T" fitting you can also attach your present sender at the same time and you can see at what pressure the light comes on.

If you go forward, I get hydraulic cylinders on line at Surplus Center. You can't have a small cylinder rebuilt for what they charge.

 

[jd110]

Oil light should not come on unless pressure is below 10 psi. Hopefully a bad sensor is all you have wrong. Not sure what model loader you have, but they should be easy to reseal unless the guide is rusted tight in the barrel. The creeping problem should be an easy fix. DOes it always creep the same direction? If so, it is an easy adjustment in the pivot linkage. You may see a grease fitting under the right side frame that goes into a bellcrank in the linkage. In the center of that bell crank is an eccentric cam to adjust for creep. Loosen the 13 mm bolt in pivot point and then turn the eccentric cam to adjust. Easiest to jack up tractor and place on jack stands. Start engine and adjust cam while engine is running until wheels stop turning. WHile you are at it, grease all fittings in linkage to be sure everything works free. If pedals are slow to return while running, the linkage is most likely sticking. If it creeps forward after moving forward and creeps backwrd after moving in reverse, then most likely the clamp bolt on lever for swash plate is loose. Remove panel between your legs for access to clamp bolt. You will need either a 12 or 13 mm socket, short extension and ratchet to tighten it up.

 

[Moukie]

Does anyone have a link to a video or instructions on how to remove the model 70 loader? Before I can really do much, I need to remove the loader. This will stop one major fluid leak, and also enable me to do enough work to test some more functions. With loader, no 4wd, turf tires, and nothing on back, this things kind of spins in place.

Thanks for the help,
David in SC

 

[hotrod1016]

Does anyone have a link to a video or instructions on how to remove the model 70 loader? Before I can really do much, I need to remove the loader. This will stop one major fluid leak, and also enable me to do enough work to test some more functions. With loader, no 4wd, turf tires, and nothing on back, this things kind of spins in place.

Thanks for the help,
David in SC

I can make a video in the morning and post it