John Deere - Briggs & Stratton Oil leak

tomplum · Dec 13, 2020

It is probably more of how the cam or the governor is aligning with the pan. It has been a while since I had one with the old style counterbalancing weight, but that may come into play too. Maybe square that up with the bottom of the block and try again. As you put the pan on, rock the crank shaft back and forth as you wiggle the pan on. If perchance you have the pushrods installed yet for the valves it may be pushing downward on the cam making it more challenging.

Neil B 1997 JD · Dec 13, 2020

tomplum said:
It is probably more of how the cam or the governor is aligning with the pan. It has been a while since I had one with the old style counterbalancing weight, but that may come into play too. Maybe square that up with the bottom of the block and try again. As you put the pan on, rock the crank shaft back and forth as you wiggle the pan on. If perchance you have the pushrods installed yet for the valves it may be pushing downward on the cam making it more challenging.

Just to clarify, none of the internals of the engine have been touched or removed. I just removed the sump pan to replace the gasket, since I believe that is where my oil leak was. I did also replace the main oil seal on the pan, but I am confident that can't be causing this problem.

BravoXray · Dec 14, 2020

Is the case spread apart or together so they don't line up?

If it's spread apart, maybe you could squeeze it together with a clamp of some sort.

tomplum · Dec 14, 2020

So really what I'm saying is that it is normal to have to finesse things to get the pan on. This is is true no matter what has been done so far. Re read my above statement and if you come to conclusion that the tension from the valve springs pushing the cam downward. Your choices here are to 1) work against the spring tension 2) set the engine in a position that there is no spring tension on the cam (both lobes not pushing the tappets upward) or if you have to 3) remove the valve cover, the caps and push rods. BTW, you did a great job on clean up by the looks of things.

tomplum · Dec 14, 2020

No Clamps. Just wanted to mention to be mindful of the new seal as it slides over the boss on the crank as you have it installed already.

RandyT · Dec 14, 2020

As a small engine machanic for 23 years I would say either the seal is hanging up which I always wait to install after the sump is in place or the governor gear or other gear is causing binding. If not the seal causing issues then something else is. If you turn the engine upside down but not sitting on the flywheel and then rotate the crank most of the time the sump will line up and drop on.

Neil B 1997 JD · Dec 20, 2020

Update: I was able to get the sump pan reinstalled. The problem just had to do with how the engine was resting on the bench, when I supported the head with some blocks of wood that brought everything into alignment and I was able to get the pan on.

Sometimes it's just something simple!

Neil

tomplum · Dec 20, 2020

:thumbsup:

Neil B 1997 JD · Dec 27, 2020

I have the engine back in the tractor and started it this afternoon, it started up without any problem and seemed to run fine - but. I ran the engine for a couple of minutes then shut it off to check for oil leaks and check the oil level. When I pulled the dip stick out I was shocked to see the oil, it was kind of "frothy" (if that's even a word) and had a whitish color to it (not sure if it will show up in the picture or not).

I used brand new SAE 30 oil.

I let it sit for about an hour and then started it again and this time it belched out a bunch of smoke for about 30 seconds and then the smoke went away and it seemed to run ok. Something just doesn't seem right. What could be causing the oil to look like that? What would cause it to belch smoke? It wasn't doing that before I tore it apart. I am really at a loss as to how to proceed.

Neil

tomplum · Dec 27, 2020

One would think that the engine being inverted allowed more oil / fuel in the combustion area and that this won't be a regular occurrence. Of course you always have more emissions on a cold start, which I am sure you know if it continues to be abnormal. Possible too that you have oil from your leak on the muffler which needs to burn away yet? It isn't abnormal to see air bubbles in the oil really, even though you hadn't noticed it earlier. As the crank and gears turn, it beats air into the oil like you're whipping an egg white. It could be air pulled through the oil filter media as well. If the oil level doesn't exceed the full mark and things seem to even out - I'd say you have a successful repair. If all sounds normal, watch over it and run it good and warm.