John Deere Yanmar diesel engine just stopped
- Thread starter Nigelr
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Sounds very similar to how my JD 4200 behaves on an intermitent basis. There will be threads on this forum.
If the same as a three cylinder 1998 yanmar:
The solenoid will probably deactivate the injection pump. There is some mention of oil getting into the solenoid jamming it up. There may also be a thermistor that goes bad. It regulates the pull and running amperage to the solenoid. It may be located in the instrument panel. Ten dollar item. Has been a known pro
Hope this is of help.
On mine I have found that heating the solenoid (heat gun, propane torch etc.) and pumping the fuel charge lever will get it started. Don't overheat the solenoid!
The solenoid is around a two hundred dollar item. So check out your present solenoid well. (Chances are it will be good) I've now got a spare that works in my toolbox.
If the same as a three cylinder 1998 yanmar:
The solenoid will probably deactivate the injection pump. There is some mention of oil getting into the solenoid jamming it up. There may also be a thermistor that goes bad. It regulates the pull and running amperage to the solenoid. It may be located in the instrument panel. Ten dollar item. Has been a known pro
Hope this is of help.
On mine I have found that heating the solenoid (heat gun, propane torch etc.) and pumping the fuel charge lever will get it started. Don't overheat the solenoid!
The solenoid is around a two hundred dollar item. So check out your present solenoid well. (Chances are it will be good) I've now got a spare that works in my toolbox.
Hmmm so when I connect the black and white wires on the male connector to the battery the solenoid clicks solidly. Sounds okay to my ears.
When I check the voltage on the female connector I get 12v on the Red with the ignition on and 9v-ish for about 1 second on the white when I crank. I think this is okay too?
so next I plan to take off the solenoid, see if it works when I crank, and see if the engine runs so I can get the machine under cover. Then investigate this thermistor.
One aspect that is on my mind is that the machine was running, and cut out. as opposed to not starting in the first place.
When I check the voltage on the female connector I get 12v on the Red with the ignition on and 9v-ish for about 1 second on the white when I crank. I think this is okay too?
so next I plan to take off the solenoid, see if it works when I crank, and see if the engine runs so I can get the machine under cover. Then investigate this thermistor.
One aspect that is on my mind is that the machine was running, and cut out. as opposed to not starting in the first place.
Egon
Epic Contributor
If the solenoid clicks it should be okay. If you hold it open for a longer period of time with an amperage that is greater than normal it may burn out.
Might try jiggling all the wireing looms??
Might try jiggling all the wireing looms??
thanks Egon.
I've got the solenoid off and watched it and it works fine: the piston starts off sticking out about 15m then when I crank it shoots in smartly to 3 or 4, and stays in until I switch the ignition off then it pops straight out again.
Also I loosened a pipe to an injector and it didn't spray fuel just a few tiny drops at first.
So now I am getting nervous about the fuel pump. Although the electric pump seems to be beating rather fast.
I've got the solenoid off and watched it and it works fine: the piston starts off sticking out about 15m then when I crank it shoots in smartly to 3 or 4, and stays in until I switch the ignition off then it pops straight out again.
Also I loosened a pipe to an injector and it didn't spray fuel just a few tiny drops at first.
So now I am getting nervous about the fuel pump. Although the electric pump seems to be beating rather fast.
thepumpguysc
Elite Member
What you have is a Yanmar "MP" pump.. VERY touchy system.. will NOT tolerate any water.. The only thing you can check is the overflow system.
The large plug above the name plate holds a spring & piston.. remove the plug & spring and w/ a magnet try to pull the piston out..
I'll bet its stuck.. either in or out.. clean it off & reinstall.. DONT TIGHTEN the nut all the way up.. leave it loose & crank the engine.. THAT will get the air out of the system quickly.. once fuel is present, tighten.. Good luck.
The large plug above the name plate holds a spring & piston.. remove the plug & spring and w/ a magnet try to pull the piston out..
I'll bet its stuck.. either in or out.. clean it off & reinstall.. DONT TIGHTEN the nut all the way up.. leave it loose & crank the engine.. THAT will get the air out of the system quickly.. once fuel is present, tighten.. Good luck.
Spanner
Veteran Member
Seems Solenoid is working as it should.
Electric Fuel Pump pumps. Follow the hose from Electric Pump through Fuel Filter and up to Injection Pump. Disconnect at Injection Pump and verify fuel flow at that point with key on.
Then do what Pump Guy suggests.
Also: Thermistor was an issue for 4200 generation tractors but this machine doesn't have that component I don't think. You have the Heartbeat box scenario.
