Joining a "trim board" to a “stud”?

[miscjames]

For my shop(metal building) garage door the installer wants a wood frame around the opening. Which i will screw to the metal building. For studs I am going to use 2x12s on each side. The installer prefers I do not cut these and set the trim board on top of these studs as he doesn’t want a screw to land in the crack. Granted its not going to be weight bearing it just there to fill the gap at the top of the door way. But i really would like it secured. It is a 10foot span so i am thinking that it needs to be more than a 2x4. So my question is what do you all suggest on how to connect this trim board to the 2x12s?

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

2x4x10 is only rated to support 40# at that length. If you stand it up so its 4 inches tall and 2 inched wide it can support 300#. In your corners I would put in support blocks under each side.

So you have to ask, what weight would you think it will be supporting? There is design and then there is what you will actually be doing with it... they can differ substantially.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

If you are just wanting them connected without anything on the face or the back you could use strong tie angles. You could put them on top and bottom of your header and on the side of the upright.

 

[Hay Dude]

A properly rated Joist hanger.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The strength should come from the header and uprights also being fastened to the building along the length of the boards.

 

[ponytug]

For my shop(metal building) garage door the installer wants a wood frame around the opening. Which i will screw to the metal building. For beams I am going to use 2x12s on each side. The installer prefers I do not cut these and set the header on top of these beams as he doesn’t want a screw to land in the crack. Granted its not going to be weight bearing it just there to fill the gap at the top of the door way. But i really would like it secured. It is a 10foot span so i am thinking that it needs to be more than a 2x4. So my question is what do you all suggest on how to connect this header to the 2x12s?

If I understand your post correctly, these boards are for "trim" around the door, not load bearing. Is that right? Any reason to think that there might be loads in the future? Where are you located?

Your image shows a beam continuing up vertically. If so, I would use a Tee nailing plate, similar to this;

https://ssttoolbox.widen.net/conten...T12_ProdPho_RI_Prod_RigidTieConnector_C0.jpeg

Around hereabouts, OSB or plywood beams are preferred for garage door framing for multidirectional strength.

All the best,

Peter

 

[CH4Ohio]

I'd suggest you ask the garage door guy to frame the opening so he's happy with it. Or suggest someone that you can hire to frame it. No offense, but it doesn't sound like you're familiar with what's needed.

Beams are horizontal load-carrying structures. Yet you seem to be referring to vertical columns or studs, etc. as "beams". Maybe I'm reading this wrong. ???

A "header" is a load-carrying structure that is supported on both ends by jack-studs or cripples or . . . various names . . . The HEADER carries the load and spans the opening that can't have studs directly below supporting the weight of the roof or wall.

Sounds like your metal building is already self-supporting so you don't need a "header" -- you only need wood framing around the opening so the door weather-seal can be attached and allow the door to close against it. It will need to support the track and the moving weight of the door. The door frame has to be attached to columns or solid structural components.

You need to frame up an opening that will be solid. It will need to be attached to something rigid. (Assume you're not just attaching to the exterior metal.) Over the opening, frame it up using at least a 2x10 overhead and place spacers and bracing above so it's rigid. The door will require a torsion spring bracket that is lag-bolted into the "header" -- this needs to be rock solid and a 2x4 isn't nearly adequate.

 

[miscjames]

I'd suggest you ask the garage door guy to frame the opening so he's happy with it. Or suggest someone that you can hire to frame it. No offense, but it doesn't sound like you're familiar with what's needed.

Beams are horizontal load-carrying structures. Yet you seem to be referring to vertical columns or studs, etc. as "beams". Maybe I'm reading this wrong. ???

A "header" is a load-carrying structure that is supported on both ends by jack-studs or cripples or . . . various names . . . The HEADER carries the load and spans the opening that can't have studs directly below supporting the weight of the roof or wall.

Sounds like your metal building is already self-supporting so you don't need a "header" -- you only need wood framing around the opening so the door weather-seal can be attached and allow the door to close against it. It will need to support the track and the moving weight of the door. The door frame has to be attached to columns or solid structural components.

You need to frame up an opening that will be solid. It will need to be attached to something rigid. (Assume you're not just attaching to the exterior metal.) Over the opening, frame it up using at least a 2x10 overhead and place spacers and bracing above so it's rigid. The door will require a torsion spring bracket that is lag-bolted into the "header" -- this needs to be rock solid and a 2x4 isn't nearly adequate.
View attachment 1998854

Terms corrected thanks for the input. Do you have any suggestions for the question asked?

 

[miscjames]

A properly rated Joist hanger.

i thought of this too but i could not find any that would marry the edge of a 1.5inch board to the edge of a 1.5 inch board. Do you have any examples of a design that would work?

 

[miscjames]

The strength should come from the header and uprights also being fastened to the building along the length of the boards.

You are correct maybe i am overthinkingit