Joist spacing question

johnday · Jun 19, 2005

Richard; I'm probably reading more into this than I have too, but how do you plan on flashing your new roof to those great looking logs your using for siding? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

On the roof slope issue, please use the icegaurd on anything less that 3/12, then install shingles over that. When you nail thru the icegaurd, the fasteners will self seal due to the icegaurd. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Code, shmode. Codes are devloped to the minimum requirements. Nothing wrong with going to code or better. You may not have a code where you are, and NOT saying your building substandard, but find out what code "WOULD" require and go with that. I've had to repair many structures that were built with the, if it was good enough for grampa, it's good enough for me mentality. Sometimes the way grampa did it was just plain dangerous. I'm trying not to sound like I'm picking on you, just don't want you or yours to get injured or worse. Any new houses going up in your area? Take a dozen donuts with you, and go ask the builder some questions. I've had that happen to me before, ofcourse I like custard filled donuts anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Richard · Jun 28, 2005

Here's where we are. Although since the picture was taken yesterday morning, I got all the plywood installed along with that 'ice guard" or what ever it's called. (The stickey backed base material)

Unfortunately, the wife wanted 5/8 plywood and the nails are 3/4 so seems I'm going to have some showing.

I'm going to install TWO layers of felt/tar paper (30 wt) on top of the ice guard stuff to try to take up some of the nail length. Unfortunately, no one thought ahead for the nails (visible underneith)

My question: When I start on the first course of shingles, do I only flip it (downside pointing up) or do I also turn it upside down, so the FINISHED side is facing downward & visible from below?

I am using dimensional shingles for the roof, but bought a box of 3 tab shingles for my starter row.

appreciate any thoughts.

Oh, and I got some flashing for the top of the roof and we're looking into thoughts on how to flash the left side while also allowing it to float (since the logs will swell/shrink)

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

beenthere · Jun 28, 2005

For the flashing, I would just let it float against the siding. Fasten it to the roof only. If water comes down the siding, so what - it would have anyway. Most of the water will be coming down the roof and the flashing will keep it on the roof.

What are the squared logs - cedar?

Your idea of flipping the first course seems like a good one to me, and will look better. Not normally done, as far as my experience goes, but I like your idea, and the shingle should do it's job just as well as a starter row.

johnday · Jun 28, 2005

Richard; Excellent call on the 3 tabs. Cut the tabs off just below the tar strip. Lay the edge you just cut even with the outside edge of the dripedge, tar strip up, and drive 4 roofers in. One on each end about 2 " from the end, and the other 2 somewhat evenly spaced in the field of the "starter strip". These should be just above the tar strip. Work across the lower edge of the roof untill you get to the other end. Then go back where you started, cut about a foot off your first shingle and place cut edge adjacent to the siding, and the bottom like you did on the starter. This will stagger the joints so they don't lineup. On your second course, cut 2' off and use the 1' piece as before. The archetectural laminated shingles are great. Mistakes as far as micrometer correctness are easily covered and eliminated by the nature of these shingles, they don't have those finnicky little tabs like on conventional shingles.

Flashing; I'm not sure how you intend to flash it out. Just make sure you do on the top and side adjacent to the house. The only suggestion I have there is to cut a groove 1/2" deep or so on those logs maybe 3" above, and the same angle as the roof, use step flahing on the sloped side on each course of shingles, and cap it off with a piece of metal flashing to keep water out. I'm sure that was confusing, but if you talk to the guys you got your stuff from, they would know what I'm saying and be able to help more than me on a bloody puter.

Feel free to ask away, I'm sure there will more suggestions coming. But then again, I do tend to kill threads for some reason. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

One more thing, I'd start the roofing at that lower intersection to left of your photo. Good luck, I HATE roofing. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

EddieWalker · Jun 28, 2005

Looks like your making some good progress.

The nails need to go through the plywood to hold. If they were shorter, they'd pull out. Just paint over them when you're all done and they will disapear.

For the flashing, your goal is to keep the water coming off the roof and away from the building.

For the side flashing, I'd install that on your plywood decking after the tar paper, but before the shingles. I'd just fasten it to the decking only.

On the top edge, I'd attach it to the wall with silicone behind it to form a water tite seal, and rest it on top of your shingles.

The first row is always turned backwards. The top side is always the top side, but the the edge of the back of the shingle goes along the edge of your decking. No need to cut the tabs off, but if you want you can. I've seen it done both ways.

Eddie

Richard · Jun 29, 2005

OK...

Thanks for the comments thus far. Note also (if it changes anyone’s thoughts) that the roof extends about 4 feet straight out from the house. In other words, this lower roof has almost four feet of the left/upper sides covered by the larger roof & gutter.

Though I do plan on flashing it somehow, I’ve only noticed water hitting the LOWER logs after a HARD rain. If in fact we were to get water hitting either wall at this lower roof line, I’d venture to say it’s because we have rain flying horizontally and it would have hit it anyway without this roof. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Beenthere: They are pine logs

Johnday: I guess I will have to ask the boys at the store. As far as cutting a groove into the logs... I’m not terribly comfortable myself doing that, or even having it done. I do intend on starting roofing at lower left corner.

Eddiewalker: Unfortunately the nails will probably show & the wife is going to hate that. I installed that ice guard underlayment. I’ve then installed TWO layers of 30 wt tar paper in an attempt to soak up some of that thickness. I overlapped every layer so it should be able to withstand a hurricane & still stay as dry as a babies hiney.

Babies DO have dry hiney’s, don't they???? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

beenthere · Jun 29, 2005

Richard
With your overhang, and only occasional water on the pine siding, I would just leave a gap so any moisture that gets between the roof and the siding can dry out so the pine lasts longer. But a turned up flashing will help with snow melt, etc and keep it on the roofing too.

I assume you have a good treating schedule for the siding log-ends that project at the corners. Most good preservatives we've had access to in the past are no longer available, such as Penta. But wouldn't want to see you lose any wood in those ends due to decay.

Stapling that roofing on (I normally don't like it done that way, but it is because of wind) may help with the nail penetration problem. Personally, I like the rubber membrane for roofing with that little slope. No seams, no nails, long lasting.