Jump Footings

[Billrog]

Here are a few cracks in my garage foundation I took the pics. today 25 years after the fact and these cracks showed up within a day or 2 of pouring. The wall does have rebar in it single rows about every 2' horizontally.
This wall is 14' tall 8" thick filled to the top inside and back filled 6' out side. The pour was 44 yds. and I ended up doing it by myself because nobody showed up for work. I had trouble keeping up to the pump with vibrating and leveling the top so ended up with a few honey combs and cold seems. If you pull a string on this wall it's still within 1/8 of and ".

 

[Billrog]

Just posted the pic. as an example cracks are not necessarily a reason to loose sleep. But if the foundation were mine I'd be sure to tie the walls into the garage concrete floor with rebar to keep the walls together and vertical especially if there is no bar in the walls. Any vertical weight is insignificant.

 

[Snobdds]

I wouldn't worry about it, it's not long enough to worry. Once the floor is tied in and the sides are back filled, there will be plenty of support.

The crack can be drilled and epoxyed, if you want. If there's enough rebar, nothing will move.

 

[Member]

I wouldn't worry about it, it's not long enough to worry. Once the floor is tied in and the sides are back filled, there will be plenty of support.

The crack can be drilled and epoxyed, if you want. If there's enough rebar, nothing will move.

I used a metal detector on it tonight and there is no rebar. Below is what the forms looked like before the pour. If only I had known what a discontinuous footing was and had read what ACI 332 8.2.8 said then:

"8.2.8 Additional wall reinforcement輸t discontinuous wall footings, where wall footing elevation change is greater than twice the footing thickness, place a minimum of two No. 4 horizontal reinforcing bars, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the wall, in addition to other required wall reinforcement. These bars shall extend at each end at least 36 in. into the wall portion supported directly by the top and bottom wall footings. The bars shall be placed in the middle third of the wall thickness. Concrete cover shall be in accordance with 5.6."

 

[buckeyefarmer]

My garage footers are like that, but I have rebar in the walls. Never gave it any thought before. Mine shows a little crack, has been that way for 15 yrs or so by now.

 

[Deere Dude]

I used a metal detector on it tonight and there is no rebar. Below is what the forms looked like before the pour. If only I had known what a discontinuous footing was and had read what ACI 332 8.2.8 said then:

"8.2.8 Additional wall reinforcement輸t discontinuous wall footings, where wall footing elevation change is greater than twice the footing thickness, place a minimum of two No. 4 horizontal reinforcing bars, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the wall, in addition to other required wall reinforcement. These bars shall extend at each end at least 36 in. into the wall portion supported directly by the top and bottom wall footings. The bars shall be placed in the middle third of the wall thickness. Concrete cover shall be in accordance with 5.6."

View attachment 506942

Out of curiosity, could you say it there is any rebar in any of the walls? or footings? That would be my concern right now. I have seen retaining walls have cracks in corners even with rebar and for peace of mind to get the house sold a contractor just put a real heavy 4" flat stock around the corner and bolted it to the wall. But this retaining wall had ground pressure on only one side.

If no rebar the contractor screwed up in my DIYer opinion. I rebar everything and rebar connecting joints.

You get what you pay for sometimes with mason contractors. A camera is man's best friend sometimes and this might be one of those times.

 

[RodSerling]

That's bad news. Tell the contractor to stop immediately and hire a structural engineer ($1000-$1500). That is completely unacceptable and won't pass code. How did it even pass inspection?

 

[Member]

Out of curiosity, could you say it there is any rebar in any of the walls? or footings? That would be my concern right now. I have seen retaining walls have cracks in corners even with rebar and for peace of mind to get the house sold a contractor just put a real heavy 4" flat stock around the corner and bolted it to the wall. But this retaining wall had ground pressure on only one side.

If no rebar the contractor screwed up in my DIYer opinion. I rebar everything and rebar connecting joints.

You get what you pay for sometimes with mason contractors. A camera is man's best friend sometimes and this might be one of those times.

There is no rebar in the footings. There is 1 #4 around the top of the wall maybe 12 inches down from the top. It is in most places except it is discontinuous where the wall height changes and in one place it does not overlap the standard 40 diameters (it overlaps maybe 2 inches there). For an area across the front of the house and between the house and the garage where there is a reverse brick ledge there's another #4 there maybe 6 inches down from the top except for a 6 foot area to the right of the front door. There is absolutely no rebar across the front of the garage at all.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would contact the building inspector and put them on the spot. They should have seen the open form and given the go ahead to pour.

 

[Deere Dude]

You must have shipped some masons up to Wisconsin from Tennessee.

The motto here is if it looks kind of good and is standing and works, it is okay.

Depending where you are in Wisconsin they probably won;t have inspectors for that sort of thing. I built three houses over the years and an inspector never was called to chexk anything except for the main connection for electricity.

It is really to bad you didn't catch it before it was poured. I really don't know what can be done now that won't take a year or more along with lawsuits to remedy. The contractor took an easy way out in an effort to save $500 in rebar.

That being said, it will still work IMHO if you treat it as a block wall and make sure the wall is well braced when back-filling until the weight of the house is on it.