Just bought 2n, have some questions

[s1120]

Hey Steve. These tractors are realy pretty simple. Once you get the book, you just may want to rewire the whole tractor. New harness are cheap, and realy simple. I lot of people are afraid of wires, but you do not need to be. Sit down the the wire diagram, and look at the tractor, and I bet you will start to understand how it works.Good luck, and hang in there. We will get you through it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

BTW I have all kinds of bad wires on my 8N, so a rewire will be on my list for this winter.

 

[Soundguy]

I would check fireing order. The should be 1243.. and 1 is the plug nearest the radiator.

Some of the distribuitor caps have the numbers molded into them.. In any case, as you might imagine.. 3 and 4 get swapped around -alot_.. and yes.. these old N's will run on 2-3 cylinders... but cough, skip, and lack power..

Soundguy

 

[KenNTx]

Are you sure its a 12 volt coversion??
Also there are 3 fuel filters..one in the tank connected to the bowl, the round screen in the bowl, and one inside the brass elbow leading into the carb.

 

[SteveM]

Yes it is 12v, it has a delco-remy alternator and 12v battery. Anyhow, I threw up the white flag earlier this week (almost ashamed to admit it) and took it to an old mechanic friend of mine. He has 2 8ns and repairs heavy trucks full time, so he is more than qualified. Bottom line - somehow i was actually losing ground with the tractor. When I got it, it ran very well - no smoke, smooth etc - but no throttle travel = no real power.

Followed lots of great instructions, took the gov apart, lubed the linkage and that got me plenty of throttle travel. And that is where the smoking, coughing, etc began, which I can't figure out. I did not touch the carb, ignition, fuel, nothing. I later checked the fuel, air, spark....nothing seemed to be wrong...The straw that broke the camels back was when I went out with the intention of taking the distibutor cap off to replace the condensor (it is all quite new, but I had a spare new condensor). when I tried to start it to move it in the shop- I had to use full choke just to keep it running...argh....what have I done!

So I am going to drop by the mechanic today to see if he has had time to tinker with it. Meanwhile my other project, an AC garden tractor, is coming along nicely...I just have to get this ford running right so I can do the things I know how to do (wiring, paint, seals, etc)

Thanks for all of your help - I am down but not out! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Soundguy]

There is a bit of info that may help with the diagnostics... 'needs choke to run'.

Choke enriches the fuel/air mixture. This helps the following situations... low compression, and a manifold cacume leak due to a bad manifold to block gasket, a bad carb to manifold gasket, or a carb half gasket. Could also be a crack in the intake manifold itself.

Other possibilities are a clogged air intake.. or a clogged fuel line.. using hte choke helps suck the fuel from the clogged line.... also some people that have plugged vent holes int he tank will draw a vacume on the tank after about 15 minutes of running.. choke helps for a minute or two.. then dies.. opening the tank relieves the vacume ( this does not sound like your problem.. i just mentioned it anyway.. )

Look for those problems.. or at least inform your mechanic what you just told us... needs choke to run.. that will tell him alot.

Soundguy

 

[SteveM]

thanks for all your help!

As usual, I feel like I have cried wolf....the troubles with the 2n were, ahem, minor.

My new best friend mechanic spent a whopping 20 minutes cleaning and readjusting the carb, and it runs like a top. He ran it around for a while, and had his grandson drive it up and down the road - and it gave no trouble.

So I hauled it home, and did 3 happy hours of dirt work with my rear scoop. No coughing or stalling. I do have a small list of things to do to the N, new fan belt, a few minor oil leaks, and a leaking seal at the 3pt link - which means the trumpet needs to come off. (might hire that one done!)

But thanks for all of your help. I cant wait to tear the tin of this rig and get it shining like new /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Re: thanks for all your help!

It is always nice when things turn out to be minor problems... Besides.. you'll wish the leaky 3pt link was a minor one too!

Is it a bad leak.. or just a drip? Of course, the rigfht thing to do is fix it.. but I have heard of some using a tranny stopleak product... mixed results...

Soundguy

 

[SteveM]

Re: leak

The leak is a steady (2x a minute) drip when running, almost none once it cools down. I tightend the heck out of the rearward bolt (added a washer) and it helped a bit. The biggest problem I face is that the trumpet is going to be so heavy, and I work alone.....will have to think on this one. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Re: leak

I forget if this was covered before.. but what oil are you using in the rear end?

Original spec was a gl-1 90wt mineral oil.. nowadays NH reccomends their '134d' oil.. which is a realitively thin transdraulic oil.

If you aren't using the heavier oil.. you might switch to it to see if it helps the leak... and in the meantime before you split it to fix it.. add some stop leak to it to see if it helps.. can't hurt it much.

And yes.. the axle trumpet is heavy.

You'll have to remove it to tighten the nut on the back of the 3pt mounting brackets too...

Soundguy

 

[bgott]

Re: leak

You can get to the link stud nut on the right side by pulling the PTO shaft. It's up in there a ways and it's tight but you have enough room to work. The ring gear is in the way on the left side. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif