just got my chain back from being sharpened.....

[crazyal]

The raker controls the depth of the cut, if you aren't taking them down then how well does it cut by the time the chain is almost worn out?

I have no problems. I tried once by eye but I took too much off and made the chain too grabby. I'm sure I'm giving up some performance but I also don't believe that a chain with it's teeth sharpened near to the end of their life will not cut if you leave the rakers alone. I only run Sthil full chisel chains and I'll keep sharpening the chain until I hit the scribe line so it's not like I'm not getting the full life out of the chains. But I also am not in a hurry. I mostly use my Dolmar 7900 so HP isn't an issue. I just let the saw do the work and watch the chips fly out. Every 2nd tank of gas I give the chain a quick touch up (or if it feels like it's cutting slow).

 

[4570Man]

I have no problems. I tried once by eye but I took too much off and made the chain too grabby. I'm sure I'm giving up some performance but I also don't believe that a chain with it's teeth sharpened near to the end of their life will not cut if you leave the rakers alone. I only run Sthil full chisel chains and I'll keep sharpening the chain until I hit the scribe line so it's not like I'm not getting the full life out of the chains. But I also am not in a hurry. I mostly use my Dolmar 7900 so HP isn't an issue. I just let the saw do the work and watch the chips fly out. Every 2nd tank of gas I give the chain a quick touch up (or if it feels like it's cutting slow).

I’d rather have a grabby chain vs one that’s sharp and won’t cut.

 

[Jstpssng]

I have no problems. I tried once by eye but I took too much off and made the chain too grabby. I'm sure I'm giving up some performance but I also don't believe that a chain with it's teeth sharpened near to the end of their life will not cut if you leave the rakers alone. I only run Sthil full chisel chains and I'll keep sharpening the chain until I hit the scribe line so it's not like I'm not getting the full life out of the chains. But I also am not in a hurry. I mostly use my Dolmar 7900 so HP isn't an issue. I just let the saw do the work and watch the chips fly out. Every 2nd tank of gas I give the chain a quick touch up (or if it feels like it's cutting slow).

That's why they make a raker gauge. I did the same thing, and it took a few sharpenings to bring it back. Yet running a dull saw is too fatiguing to me... and filing the rakers is part of sharpening the chain.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That's why they make a raker gauge. I did the same thing, and it took a few sharpenings to bring it back. Yet running a dull saw is too fatiguing to me... and filing the rakers is part of sharpening the chain.

I agree, the rakers have to be filed down as you sharpen the tooth, IF you expect the chain to cut well.

SR

 

[Skeans1]

Also depending on tooth you need to remove the gullet as well such as on a square tooth. I normally do them every 4 to 5th grinding as well as the depth gauges self feeding is a must if you’re in a production environment why be tired at the end of the day.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I also profile the front edge of the rakers as they start to get filed flat and start developing a squared off leading "corner" that causes added grabbing. You can take a small flat hand file and radius that front corner down in 10 seconds per rake and allow it to have a sloped front edge instead a hard corner. You'll still have your newly trimmed flat peak, but get rid of that sharp leading corner. It makes me feel better about my chains.... I also use that newfangled thing that does the rakers along with the teeth at one time. I used to hand file the teeth and then use a raker file guid and flat file the rakers in a second pass. Now it is so quick and easy to spend 5 minutes before each day of cutting and "tweak and peak" the chain that it is crazy not to have this new style file system.

I use the Pferd file rather than the Stihl branded one. Man, that is a game changer for simplicity and effectiveness.

Amazon.com : Pferd 1731 Sharp CS-X Chain Saw Sharpener : Chain Sharpeners : Garden & Outdoor

 

[Jstpssng]

I also profile the front edge of the rakers as they start to get filed flat and start developing a squared off leading "corner" that causes added grabbing. You can take a small flat hand file and radius that front corner down in 10 seconds per rake and allow it to have a sloped front edge instead a hard corner. You'll still have your newly trimmed flat peak, but get rid of that sharp leading corner. It makes me feel better about my chains.... I also use that newfangled thing that does the rakers along with the teeth at one time. I used to hand file the teeth and then use a raker file guid and flat file the rakers in a second pass. Now it is so quick and easy to spend 5 minutes before each day of cutting and "tweak and peak" the chain that it is crazy not to have this new style file system.

I use the Pferd file rather than the Stihl branded one. Man, that is a game changer for simplicity and effectiveness.

Amazon.com : Pferd 1731 Sharp CS-X Chain Saw Sharpener : Chain Sharpeners : Garden & Outdoor

You're not the first person in this thread to mention that system, I'll have to check them out. I just started rounding off my rakers as you said... I"m not sure how much difference it makes but it sure looks better.

 

[5030]

Always been my view that anyone who takes their loops to someplace to be sharpened has deep pockets anyway so it don't matter how much they grind off a chain because being flush with money. they can afford it... Me, I cannot, why I do my own. In fact, just did 4 loops yesterday and set the rakers too.

 

[5030]

I also profile the front edge of the rakers as they start to get filed flat and start developing a squared off leading "corner" that causes added grabbing. You can take a small flat hand file and radius that front corner down in 10 seconds per rake and allow it to have a sloped front edge instead a hard corner. You'll still have your newly trimmed flat peak, but get rid of that sharp leading corner. It makes me feel better about my chains.... I also use that newfangled thing that does the rakers along with the teeth at one time. I used to hand file the teeth and then use a raker file guid and flat file the rakers in a second pass. Now it is so quick and easy to spend 5 minutes before each day of cutting and "tweak and peak" the chain that it is crazy not to have this new style file system.

I use the Pferd file rather than the Stihl branded one. Man, that is a game changer for simplicity and effectiveness.

Amazon.com : Pferd 1731 Sharp CS-X Chain Saw Sharpener : Chain Sharpeners : Garden & Outdoor

One in the same actually. Just different colored handles. (removed) and Stihl are identical, except the price.

The'P' is silent. It's (removed).

 

[AchingBack]

One in the same actually. Just different colored handles. (removed) and Stihl are identical, except the price.

The'P' is silent. It's (removed).

I have the Stihl model. The only thing I find wrong with the tool is the grip. It just isn't very comfortable to use. Maybe it's just me. However, the concept is great. It does a good job of keeping my chains sharp enough for the hardest wood I've cut: pacific madrone.