I purchased a 4ft wallace rotary mower at TSC over the weekend. I have a couple small pastures that are getting out of hand and I need to mow them back. I got the mower 3pt section togeather then it came to couple the drive shaft to the transmission. This is suppose to be a slip on shaft with a shearpin to hold it in place. I have yet to be able to slip the shaft over the transmission shaft. I tried to push it, shove it. I finally called TSC and they said use a bigger hammer. Just how snug is this thing suppose to be and then when I do get it on how am I going to allign the shearpin holes?
Just how snug?
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cowboydoc
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Something is not right. That thing should slip right on. Is it a spring pin to hold it on? If it is make sure that you've got it pushed all the way in. Any of them that I have ever used just slip right on.
DVerbarg
Platinum Member
gws,
Usually the PTO shaft will just slip right on as Richard said. The only time that has not been true for me is when the shaft has some surface rust or is painted. In either situation you might want to use a hammer for the first few times until the rust/paint is worn off, then a light application of wheel grease seems to keep it that way (especially if you store the equipment outdoors). The only down side to this is that the grease can tend to attract dirt making implement change over a dirty job.
DaveV
Usually the PTO shaft will just slip right on as Richard said. The only time that has not been true for me is when the shaft has some surface rust or is painted. In either situation you might want to use a hammer for the first few times until the rust/paint is worn off, then a light application of wheel grease seems to keep it that way (especially if you store the equipment outdoors). The only down side to this is that the grease can tend to attract dirt making implement change over a dirty job.
DaveV
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When you say "couple the drive shaft to the transmission" are you talking about connecting the rear of the driveshaft to the gearbox on the mower? Check for burrs on both pieces. It should all go together without a hammer, if not, load it back up and take it back!
I am talking about connecting the drive shaft to the gearbox on the mower.
>When you say "couple the drive shaft to the transmission" are you talking about connecting the rear of >the
>driveshaft to the gearbox on the mower? Check for burrs on both pieces. It should all go together without a
>hammer, if not, load it back up and take it back!
>When you say "couple the drive shaft to the transmission" are you talking about connecting the rear of >the
>driveshaft to the gearbox on the mower? Check for burrs on both pieces. It should all go together without a
>hammer, if not, load it back up and take it back!
Cowboydoc, No spring pin, other side of the shaft, Guess I should have said gearbox in instead of transmission. My snug problem is on the mower side. Its held in by a shear pin. The tractor side of the drive shaft fits fine.
mbjacobs
Bronze Member
Just remember if it's hard to get it on it will be hard to get it off. I used a "bigger hammer" to get a borrowed post hole digger on then couldn't get it off. There's no room to swing a hammer when taking something off the PTO. I ended up buying a large wheel puller and taking the universal joint on the drive shaft apart to get it off. My advice, if it doesn't go together easily, find out why and fix it.
Maury Jacobs
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cowboydoc
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GWS,
Oh ok whole different story. Yep you need a bigger hammer but make sure that you put block of wood or steel or something to beat against so you don't flatten it out. Put some oil or something on the shaft to make it slip easier. I just had to replace mine and had to heat it to get it off and back on. If you don't have heat then just pound the heck out of it.
Oh ok whole different story. Yep you need a bigger hammer but make sure that you put block of wood or steel or something to beat against so you don't flatten it out. Put some oil or something on the shaft to make it slip easier. I just had to replace mine and had to heat it to get it off and back on. If you don't have heat then just pound the heck out of it.
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Hey come on you guys! "If it don't fit, just get a bigger hammer" is NOT a good way to do things. GWS, these guys that are recommending a hammer are not giving good advice, which surprises me because usually they do. I agree with Maury, fix the problem. If it's rusty or painted, get a wire brush and clean it up. If its burred, get a file and fix it. Pounding on it will only cause trouble down the road. But, I still think you aught to take it back and tell them you want another one - you paid good money for a new implement and shouldn't have to repair it before you use it for the first time!
cowboydoc
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Danny,
I disagree with you. Even under the best of conditions those are harder than heck to get on. You can clean them up, whatever you want but you are going to have pound it on there's simply no other way to do it. If you can't heat it up it's not going to go on easy. The last one I put on was spit shined, smooth as silk, and I put oil on it and it still wouldn't go on. I pounded it and then to make it easier heated it up put block on the end and pounded it on with a 4 lb. sledge. It's not an easy thing to do.
I disagree with you. Even under the best of conditions those are harder than heck to get on. You can clean them up, whatever you want but you are going to have pound it on there's simply no other way to do it. If you can't heat it up it's not going to go on easy. The last one I put on was spit shined, smooth as silk, and I put oil on it and it still wouldn't go on. I pounded it and then to make it easier heated it up put block on the end and pounded it on with a 4 lb. sledge. It's not an easy thing to do.
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PS:
If you have to pound it on there that hard, how much good do you think the shear pin will do you when you hit something? Also, the more we put up with that kind of quality control, the more manufacturers will try to get away with it. Before long, everything we buy will have to be repaired before we can use it.
If you have to pound it on there that hard, how much good do you think the shear pin will do you when you hit something? Also, the more we put up with that kind of quality control, the more manufacturers will try to get away with it. Before long, everything we buy will have to be repaired before we can use it.
cowboydoc
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Danny,
It will still shear the pin. I've had them go and spin the shaft off and still have to pound it back on.
It will still shear the pin. I've had them go and spin the shaft off and still have to pound it back on.
Anonymous Poster
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{Snap Ring is item 412-7978}
At the gearbox input shaft end... look closely... there should be a snap ring/retainer ring/circlip in place...
Snap this ring off, scrap off the paint on the shaft... the PTO yoke should slip on... install the "shear bolt", then snap the retainer ring back on the end of the shaft.
The snap ring prevents the PTO driveshaft coming off @ 540 rpm when the shear bolt breaks...
HR_Mutt
Gold Member
gws
I just fit one of those the other day. They had not deburred the groove for the snap ring or the drilled hole for the shear pin. After removing the paint, I lightly filed the burrs off then sanded with a real fine sandpaper. This will allow you to see the "high spots" as to push them together with a slight twisting motion. As it was on this particular one, no additional work was necessary because it slid right together/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.A quick cleanup and shot of oil and it was working.
regards
Mutt
I just fit one of those the other day. They had not deburred the groove for the snap ring or the drilled hole for the shear pin. After removing the paint, I lightly filed the burrs off then sanded with a real fine sandpaper. This will allow you to see the "high spots" as to push them together with a slight twisting motion. As it was on this particular one, no additional work was necessary because it slid right together/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.A quick cleanup and shot of oil and it was working.
regards
Mutt
Well I finally got it on. After hammering and trying to get it on I gave up and took the shaft back to TSC. They replaced it without any question or reciept. Took that one home, deburred the paint, applied a little grease and it slid on with a few light taps.
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Hammering on anything connected to a roller bearing is just asking for trouble with the bearing down the road. Roller bearings are not good at taking shock loads when not rotating.
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