Just joined the grey market Yanmar club

[clemsonfor]

Yea that was a good deal

 

[HaltCatchFire]

Dang, that's a beautiful machine and a beautiful price!

 

[Andy1969]

It’s a rattle can paint job but it’s pretty good at that. The previous owner clearly took good care of it as everything works well and nothing is bent up. I’m going to change the fluids and filters this weekend and flush the cooling system to get the combustion residue cleaned out from the leaking head gasket. Starts and runs good, all the ranges and powershift work as they should. Brakes hold and the clutch feels good. I plan on using a 4 foot brush hog behind it to keep my paths mowed and for getting in closer to a bunch of small spruce trees I’ve planted over the last few years. Rear tires aren’t filled. So I was considering doing that for added stability even though I won’t be adding an FEL. What do you all think about loading the rears?

 

[clemsonfor]

It’s a rattle can paint job but it’s pretty good at that. The previous owner clearly took good care of it as everything works well and nothing is bent up. I’m going to change the fluids and filters this weekend and flush the cooling system to get the combustion residue cleaned out from the leaking head gasket. Starts and runs good, all the ranges and powershift work as they should. Brakes hold and the clutch feels good. I plan on using a 4 foot brush hog behind it to keep my paths mowed and for getting in closer to a bunch of small spruce trees I’ve planted over the last few years. Rear tires aren’t filled. So I was considering doing that for added stability even though I won’t be adding an FEL. What do you all think about loading the rears?

If you use ground engaging equipment, do it you won't ever look back. Things like bottom plow, box blade, disk harrow, etc. If all your doing is use a bush hog I wouldn't waste my time or money, you don't need it . It will work just fine and the only difference you will notice is deeper ruts when your yard is wet .

But with ground engaging equipment, it makes a night and day difference. I used mine a few years before I loaded mine with windshield washer fluid (WWF).

 

[California]

I think loading the rears to 50% adds a small amount of rollover resistance so I did that before buying a ROPS. But get a ROPS. There's no way to climb off that thing and over the huge tire if it starts to go over, you're dead.

The lawsuit causing Yanmar-USA to drive the gray market importers out of business was caused by a rollover fatality.

About the time I bough my YM240 (very similar) someone commented: "the plant where I worked had a YM240 with loader and we used to see it on its side maybe once a year".

These are tall and narrow, and not heavy like a similar US tractor. Get a ROPS.

 

[Andy1969]

Yes ROPS definitely protects you in the event of a rollover. But I am wondering what your thoughts are regarding improved stability with loaded rears was. I have loaded R4’s on my Mahindra 1538 with FEL for stability with the loader primarily. And have loaded rears and wheel weights on my Cub for added traction while plowing. Just wanted thoughts on improving lateral stability on the 2210?

 

[clemsonfor]

Yes ROPS definitely protects you in the event of a rollover. But I am wondering what your thoughts are regarding improved stability with loaded rears was. I have loaded R4’s on my Mahindra 1538 with FEL for stability with the loader primarily. And have loaded rears and wheel weights on my Cub for added traction while plowing. Just wanted thoughts on improving lateral stability on the 2210?

It will help some, but not that much. Can you tell a difference, I would want to say no. I did the calculations roughly, and with WWF I added somewhere around 175 pounds total to the tractor. I filled them as much as I could, which I think is about 80% and some of that weight is above the axle which does not help with the stability as it's above the center of gravity. If you do like California said and fill to 50% you looking at what maybe 100 pounds or so that your adding to the bottom of the tractor, a number that I don't think will make much real world difference. This is just my opinion, which everyone has theirs. Don't get me wrong. It will help I am not saying it won't, but as to how much and if in the real world you would be able to tell, I don't think it would make much difference.

 

[Andy1969]

It will help some, but not that much. Can you tell a difference, I would want to say no. I did the calculations roughly, and with WWF I added somewhere around 175 pounds total to the tractor. I filled them as much as I could, which I think is about 80% and some of that weight is above the axle which does not help with the stability as it's above the center of gravity. If you do like California said and fill to 50% you looking at what maybe 100 pounds or so that your adding to the bottom of the tractor, a number that I don't think will make much real world difference. This is just my opinion, which everyone has theirs. Don't get me wrong. It will help I am not saying it won't, but as to how much and if in the real world you would be able to tell, I don't think it would make much difference.

Yes that’s kind of what I figured. I’m definitely going to look at adding ROPS since I kind of enjoy being alive and my property is fairly hilly. I definitely think I’m really going to enjoy this tractor. It’s small enough to be able to get into tight spots, but it’s built like a real tractor out of cast iron. I also like the old school simplicity of it.

 

[clemsonfor]

You might be interested to look into Hoye tractors spacers. They have them custom designed and machined. They will add 8"s to the stance of the tractors. Which will do way more than filled ng the tires ever will. A few members here have them . JTullis is one, I don't remember the others. I am going to order a set myself soon.

 

[California]

Clemsonfor's reply is good, I can't add much to it.

You can draw diagrams where the downhill tire is the hinge point and then the CG passes the hinge point and it goes over, but a real world accident often has additional elements such as the downhill tire falling in a grass-covered washout or badger hole (my greatest risk), or that downhill tire coming off its rim due to underinflation and changing the theoretical hinge point.

The one time I scared myself, I tried to make a fast u-turn through a gap in the orchard trees, and then stabbed one brake to make the turn sharper and not hit a tree, not realizing locking the inside tire made the outside tire go twice as fast.

My neighbor said his one near-fatal accident was when he gave more throttle going up a ramp onto a trailer and that shot the ramp out behind him. The tractor came down with only the exhaust pipe pinning him to the ground, just bruises, and the only tractor accident in three generations, but he said it happened so fast it could just as easily have been fatal.

Here's a search on ROPS in the Safety forum here. Some scary stories and plenty of sad ones.

It's the unexpected that will getcha, not the CG calculations you made on paper. Farming is up there with logging and mining in terms of fatality risk and tractors are mostly the cause.

Just get a ROPS.

Loaded tires? The ballast effect does improve traction considerably. Iron wheel weights are even better because they let the tire flex and conform to the ground better.