Just ordered a PT-180, wanted to introduce myself

[m5040]

Just FYI the PT180 has different loader arms then all the other machines. It has no grease fittings for the loader and (to me) is a joy as all I have to do is spray it with the oil, couldn't be easier (As MossRoad said, everything that moves needs one type of lube or another), the most difficult is the treadle setup as you cant see it very well without taking off a cover, you spray it with oil at the pivots. The center pins are the 2 grease fittings every 8 hours and I forgot about the other that is under the cover and there will be NO GREASE FITTING in it! But if you read the manual, that one is a 50 hour interval (same as filter). Please correct me if I am wrong on that interval. PT factory wanted you to take the fitting out of the rear joint and install it in the front, grease it up, put the fitting back in the rear center pin and put the covers back on. There is no room for the fitting with the covers on.

You will have to run at least one wire front to back to control the fan. Your hour meter tach combo might have a special wire to run and wrap around a spark plug wire I would guess. You may want to run a harness back with extra wires? If you plan on a rear light, the low oil alarm needs one, etc, Good to have extras. It shouldn't be too hard to get it through, just be patient and try different spots for a clear passage through the group of hoses, or push a hard wire through then pull the harness through.

While we are on the subject of the loader arms, be very careful with the loader operation. The other models have a design that keeps the bucket in the same position as the arms are raised. The 180 does not and as the arms are raise the bucket (in relation to the arms) curls back. This can dump whatever you have in the bucket back onto YOU! So you have to work both levers at the same time and uncurl the bucket as you raise the arms. Just be careful if you have a large rock or something that can kill you.

 

[MossRoad]

You can put the fan switch in the engine compartment and avoid having to run wire through the tunnel. Just open the hood, do your pre-run inspection, turn on the fan, close the hood and start the tractor. I didn't even put a switch on mine. I put an alligator clip on a wire and stuck it to the starter post.

I have no grease fittings on the 2001 425 loader arms, with the exception of the rollover tube. The joints just get sprayed. I've thought about putting grease fittings on them, but after 19 years, I'm pretty sure I'm never gonna do that. :laughing:

Greasing the joints and treadle under the center tunnel were such a pain that I took the covers off about 15 years ago. Haven't been back on since.

And don't feel left out.... I've put many a load of dirt in my lap with the 425's bucket and it's snappy hydraulics.

 

[m5040]

I grease the roll over Z-bar religiously on my 1430. It doesn't look like there is any way to replace the bushings if you damage them from no lube.

The 1430 also has 2 fittings were the arms attach to the main frame, I thought that was the way all the other 422 and up loaders were to.

Thinking that was a lot of maintenance, yesterday I noticed my Kubota has a sticker on the loader telling me to grease it every 10 hours

 

[MossRoad]

When I received my 425 back in 2001, the manual said to grease fittings X, Y, Z, etc... for the life of me, I couldn't find the fittings on the loader arms where they attach to the frame. Finally I called the factory.... they stopped installing those fittings and never updated the manual. I just spray the heck out of everything, often.

 

[James23]

Just FYI the PT180 has different loader arms then all the other machines. It has no grease fittings for the loader and (to me) is a joy as all I have to do is spray it with the oil, couldn't be easier (As MossRoad said, everything that moves needs one type of lube or another), the most difficult is the treadle setup as you cant see it very well without taking off a cover, you spray it with oil at the pivots. The center pins are the 2 grease fittings every 8 hours and I forgot about the other that is under the cover and there will be NO GREASE FITTING in it! But if you read the manual, that one is a 50 hour interval (same as filter). Please correct me if I am wrong on that interval. PT factory wanted you to take the fitting out of the rear joint and install it in the front, grease it up, put the fitting back in the rear center pin and put the covers back on. There is no room for the fitting with the covers on.

You will have to run at least one wire front to back to control the fan. Your hour meter tach combo might have a special wire to run and wrap around a spark plug wire I would guess. You may want to run a harness back with extra wires? If you plan on a rear light, the low oil alarm needs one, etc, Good to have extras. It shouldn't be too hard to get it through, just be patient and try different spots for a clear passage through the group of hoses, or push a hard wire through then pull the harness through.

While we are on the subject of the loader arms, be very careful with the loader operation. The other models have a design that keeps the bucket in the same position as the arms are raised. The 180 does not and as the arms are raise the bucket (in relation to the arms) curls back. This can dump whatever you have in the bucket back onto YOU! So you have to work both levers at the same time and uncurl the bucket as you raise the arms. Just be careful if you have a large rock or something that can kill you.

Thanks for the useful info.

My plan was to find some higher quality wire (continuously flexible wire seems to produce good search results). I found some that have 7 or 12 wires in a bundle, meant for robotic arms. It's $1.50 / foot, but should be good for the life of the tractor. Then I can just run that once and hook up wires as-needed.

Also good to know about the loader arms, don't plan on lifting much up too high (just enough to drive around the yard, a foot or two I suppose). I'm also a complete novice to hydraulics and loaders, so I will be taking it very cautiously for a while.

 

[James23]

Well the PT-180 showed up on Friday. I spent a bit of time looking it all over, then started it up and spent a few hours moving dirt around and mowed the lawn on Saturday.

So far so good. The thing sure kicks off a lot of heat (but I knew that). I ordered a few random things to add including a magnetic thermometer, 12inch / 80W cooling fan, oil pressure warning light, and some LED headlights. I also grabbed some lights and a few accessories to hook it all up (relays, fuses and 10 feet of 16 gauge 7 bundle "continuous flex" wire meant for robots or something).

It appears the design of mine here has incorporated some feedback from over the years (or just lessons learned, I dunno). It has a heat shield between the engine and gas tank as well as on the muffler. The gas line is routed nowhere near any hot components, which I was very happy to see (after reading some many forum posts of you all adding heat shields and rerouting gas lines). Perhaps there is more room to route things. I would like to eventually add a hydraulic oil cooler, but I will wait until my warranty expires .

The pedals (treadle is the term I believe) seems to be super touchy. I basically bounced up and down a lot until I put one foot on each, seems to work much better.

I would like to get some type of rubber plugs for my PTO hydraulic attachments, but not sure what type / size they are. Already has an ok amount of dust in and around them.

Reading all of your posts over the last few weeks has been super helpful, so thank you to everyone who has put information on these things out there for the rest of us!

 

[cqaigy2]

Very pretty, all nice and clean like that. :laughing: I see they're still using Robin engine.

 

[m5040]

Very nice! Remember to check that big nut on the bottom center joint. And to spray the ball joints ever 8 hours ( you have to remove the left floor to get to one). And the 2 1/2 grease fittings (8hr and 50hr interval).
Did they tell you to do the first engine oil change at something like 10 or 15 hrs?

 

[James23]

Very nice! Remember to check that big nut on the bottom center joint. And to spray the ball joints ever 8 hours ( you have to remove the left floor to get to one). And the 2 1/2 grease fittings (8hr and 50hr interval).
Did they tell you to do the first engine oil change at something like 10 or 15 hrs?

Got it, yea need to go grab a grease gun. Manual says 20 hours, then every 100 after that. Terry never said anything about it, so my plan was to follow that.

 

[MossRoad]

I don't know how your treadle is set up. Mine is cable operated. Newer 425s are hydraulic. PT offered a spring kit to go under the hydraulic treadle pedal to add some resistance to your foot pressure to make it less touchy. Maybe check and see if yours has springs under the treadle, and as PT if there are stiffer springs available.... things like that.