Just won't go

   / Just won't go
  • Thread Starter
#21  
im thinking its maybe like ball bearings and springs....I probably am making that up though! ha! I think previously there were springs that were broken and maybe hard to locate? Just a note I learned from Aaron at Hoye. Yanmar uses Japanese spec orings for many things, your metric or SAE wont qite be the right size. They may but also maybe not seal right. I suggest looking at the orings you need for the job and or calling Aaron or emailing him a question and asking what orings you would need for the job your doing and then buying 2 of each of them to have on hand before you start.

Yeah, I already discovered that about the orings when I took the brakes apart. Bought several "close" sized ones from napa, and none quite fit. Finally had to order from hoye. That's why I'm stalling on doing anything on it right now as it is still useful to me even as is. O-rings on a high pressure hydraulics isn't something to mess with.
 
   / Just won't go #22  
Yeah, the springs and/or the relief valves have been suggested before (post 4), I just have been hesitant to open anything up to start snooping around as I am using the machine in a project right now and hate to ground it if I run into trouble or parts I can't find. It does work, even as is, just at about 20% of what it should be doing. Don't think it is doing any more damage running it easy as apparently the previous owner used it this way for several years. Not sure exactly what I will be looking for when I open the relief valves, but hoping it is something obvious, like broken springs or full of crud. The 187D seems a bit more than just unscrewing an inspection plug to access, and it shows a number of o-rings and such I'm sure I'll have to replace even if all I do is inspect. I also think I'll do another flush of the entire tranny in case some gear oil remains in some of the nooks and crannys. Done it twice already and gets a bit spendy, but it definitely seems better than the first day I ran it.

I'll post an update if I get too impatient and start taking things apart.

Well, if the clutches aren't slipping and there isn't any heat building up then I'd probably do the same as you are doing. That is just keep using it and continue changing/cleaning all the filters you can find and checking/changing the fluid. Stick with a very light weight trans/hydraulic fluid like JD303 or the budget equivalents. Who knows? Maybe it will purge itself and recover. Worth a try.

Does the YM187D just have the cleanable hydraulic filter? For some reason I thought it also had a spin-on?

Oh, and just for peace of mind if it were mine I'd check the two pressures ports mentioned in message #15. That's quick, easy, and cheap to do...and will tell you a lot about the tranny for only a little effort.
rScotty
 
   / Just won't go #23  
Was looking back making sure of my prev. reply and reading up on this thread. Sounds like the Internal pump. Typ. to loosing prime. And then I came across on the Gear Oil, STP. reply. And I'm rely thinking that's were the prob. is. Just an opinion....................
 
   / Just won't go #24  
but if there were no problem before why would anyone put STP into it?

maybe it had clogged filter or messed up relief valves and he thought the STP would fix it maybe?
 
   / Just won't go #25  
STP is just real thick oil. It may help a car smoke less but it can't help an A/T or tractor hydraulics.

Hmmm ... I wonder if STP could be used to blend some chainsaw bar oil?
 
   / Just won't go #26  
it could, but motor oil costs more then bar oil plus then there is the cost of STP? even walmart brand is about $1.

I buy a gallon of bar oil for $5 on sale and is perfectly good. I am one of those that DOES NOT run used oil through my saws. I have saws that cost upwards of $1000 new, no way I'm not spending the 5 or $10 a year on bar oil. Used oil just makes a saw nasty to work on and all the fine junk in it wears out the oiler pre maturely.
 

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