Kama 554 arrived this AM!
- Thread starter Brad_Blazer
- Start date
- Views: 7799
bluechip
Veteran Member
Based on what I read here, yes it seems to be a common problem. the 4wd/2wd lever is held in place by a ball in a grove on the shift rail that is held in place by a spring. I would check the ball/spring, spacer to make sure it is properly installed. When proper, the lever will "click" into position as you hear the ball drop into the grove on the shift rail. Reasons for the problem could be that the spring is too weak, the shift rail is not travleing far enough for the groove in the rail to get under the hole wiht the spring and ball in it. or the spring and ball could be missing, or just the spacer which puts more pressure on the ball could be missing. Or the rail could be improperly installed so that the groove does not line up with the ball/spring/pin assembly...
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Hey guys,
I had the same problem .... slips out of 4wd so I made a bracket like CaptainJack refers to. But I was thinking, if you can get any automotive bracket that has a curve on it like for an alternator or powersteering pump, I think that would work too. Get a Knob with threads and a nut and wahser. Take one of the bolts out that hold the shifter cover down and bolt it on there.
Here's a picture of mine....Knob Side
This is the shaft side that hits the 4wd lever and keeps it in place.
I had the same problem .... slips out of 4wd so I made a bracket like CaptainJack refers to. But I was thinking, if you can get any automotive bracket that has a curve on it like for an alternator or powersteering pump, I think that would work too. Get a Knob with threads and a nut and wahser. Take one of the bolts out that hold the shifter cover down and bolt it on there.
Here's a picture of mine....Knob Side
This is the shaft side that hits the 4wd lever and keeps it in place.
Captinjack
Silver Member
Paddy
Could you help me out regarding how your decompression actuator is plumbed? Maybe a picture or two; one at the valve cover and one where the actuator/pull knob? is located. Warm weather starting is instantaneous, but it believe it would be helpful in really cold weather and when you wanted to manually turn the crankshaft when setting valves for instance.
The preheater is located on the intake manifold and plumbed into the fuel line and has a wire going to it, but where it goes is unknown. Does yours actually work and if so, when/how do you use it?
My differential lock for the rear wheels doesn't appear to work as nothing changes when I pull it up or push it down. Which way is it supposed to operate?
It looks like the tire fixing man won't be able to get his heavy service truck to my Kama as it has been raining like a cow psssssssssssing on a flat rock for the past 3 days and the ground is terribly soft. Oh well......maybe it'll dry out for my vacation next week.
Thanks in advance,
Could you help me out regarding how your decompression actuator is plumbed? Maybe a picture or two; one at the valve cover and one where the actuator/pull knob? is located. Warm weather starting is instantaneous, but it believe it would be helpful in really cold weather and when you wanted to manually turn the crankshaft when setting valves for instance.
The preheater is located on the intake manifold and plumbed into the fuel line and has a wire going to it, but where it goes is unknown. Does yours actually work and if so, when/how do you use it?
My differential lock for the rear wheels doesn't appear to work as nothing changes when I pull it up or push it down. Which way is it supposed to operate?
It looks like the tire fixing man won't be able to get his heavy service truck to my Kama as it has been raining like a cow psssssssssssing on a flat rock for the past 3 days and the ground is terribly soft. Oh well......maybe it'll dry out for my vacation next week.
Thanks in advance,
Paddy
Veteran Member
Do you have a cable/knob for the decompression? There is a lever on the back of the valve cover. The spring on it keeps it in the off position. With gloves, rotate down. Now you have pressed down on the exhaust valves and decompression is obtained. The cable comes from below and as you pull the knob it pulls the lever down. Mine has a simple nut/washer to clamp the cable.
As far as the pre-heat, I have a lead that goes under the dash. Does your key rotate CCW with spring force? If yes then you have the switch for the pre-heat. Remove the access cover from the front of your dash. Remove the switch via the large spin nut. Is there a wire orentated with the lug on the switch for the CCW rotation? If not that is likely your target. Mine draws heavy Amperes when rotated CCW.
As far as the pre-heat, I have a lead that goes under the dash. Does your key rotate CCW with spring force? If yes then you have the switch for the pre-heat. Remove the access cover from the front of your dash. Remove the switch via the large spin nut. Is there a wire orentated with the lug on the switch for the CCW rotation? If not that is likely your target. Mine draws heavy Amperes when rotated CCW.
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
CaptainJack,
Here is a picture of the decompression lever on the back of your valve cover. There should be a cable connected to it via a nut/bolt. Mine was disconnected when I got it. Loosen the nut/bolt and slide the cable through the hole in the bolt. Pull the slack out of the cable and tighten the nut. When you check the pull knob, be sure there is a little slack in it so you have not accidentally set it too tight having the decompression lever slightly activated. Hope that helps.
In this picture, the nut that holds the cable is on the lever. Never mind that I am taking the bolts out (I am removing the lever arm to remove the valve cover to do the valve lash adjustment)
This one shows the bolt that has the hole through it for the cable which is connected to the knob on your dash.
This one shows the cable connected to the lever arm of the decompression rod.
Oh, and the actuator pull knob is down low on the left side of your dashboard. Actually below the dashboard. It's about the same elevation as the "kill" switch only to the left of it...
Here is a picture of the decompression lever on the back of your valve cover. There should be a cable connected to it via a nut/bolt. Mine was disconnected when I got it. Loosen the nut/bolt and slide the cable through the hole in the bolt. Pull the slack out of the cable and tighten the nut. When you check the pull knob, be sure there is a little slack in it so you have not accidentally set it too tight having the decompression lever slightly activated. Hope that helps.
In this picture, the nut that holds the cable is on the lever. Never mind that I am taking the bolts out (I am removing the lever arm to remove the valve cover to do the valve lash adjustment)
This one shows the bolt that has the hole through it for the cable which is connected to the knob on your dash.
This one shows the cable connected to the lever arm of the decompression rod.
Oh, and the actuator pull knob is down low on the left side of your dashboard. Actually below the dashboard. It's about the same elevation as the "kill" switch only to the left of it...
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
On my Kama, the differential lock lever has to be pulled up and shoved all the way down to the floor board. All the way down to the front is disengaged and all the way down to the rear is engaged. I think those are the positions? (Don't have the tractor in front of me...) Don't force it in when stationary...you should be moving slightly for it to engage fully.