KAMA TS254C starter

[lakespirit]

I was trying to start it and the starter sounded like it was dragging and sort of ginding. Then I blew the main fuse. After I replaced the fuse, it just makes a click in the solenoid (I think). Any ideas?

 

[3RRL]

First thing I'd check is if the ground is proper and clean. Remove the bolt and grind the paint off so it's bare metal. Reconnect with a star washer so it bits into the steel. If you have a faulty connection that allows carbon build up, it could work then not. That causes a lot of resistance and a blown fuse.

 

[greg_g]

I was trying to start it and the starter sounded like it was dragging and sort of ginding. Then I blew the main fuse. After I replaced the fuse, it just makes a click in the solenoid (I think). Any ideas?

Fuses blow because of an electrical short. But if your replacement fuse didn't blow, the condition was apparently temporary. That can happen when the 12v leads to the starter and/or solenoid are loose. You can get a spark gap that jumps to ground.

Verifying battery ground is important to the entire electrical system. But specific to the starter circuit, tighten the three 12v connections at the starter and solenoid;
-battery to starter
-keyswitch to solenoid
-solenoid to fuse box.

Also inspect the insulation on all three. If it's worn/burned through, one could be periodically shorting out against some metal.

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

I cleaned everything I could get to and tightened some connections. When trying to start, The starter is really dragging, but the fuse did not blow. We got a foot of new snow last night and it's pretty cold. I turned the ignition switch to warm the glow plugs and the fuse blew. I hfave the heater on the water line plugged in at the moment and a radiant heater pointed in the area of the starter. I will let things warm and try again in about 30 minutes or so. What next?

 

[greg_g]

OK. In a KAMA/TaiShan of your vintage, neither the glow plugs nor the starter solenoid are individually fused. Their only protection is the 30A system fuse. Have you considered that it was actually the glow plugs that blew the fuse the first time too? Have you performed resistance checks on them?

The matter of a "dragging " starter could simply be the result of a low battery charge state. Have you checked the voltage? the specific gravity?

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

Greg,

I am a marginal backyard wrench at best. I do won a multi meter, but no clue how to do the resistance checks. I did have my trcuk and tractor's batteries connected at one point. My lights, horn, signals etc. seem to be as bright as ever. Since my last post, and the block heater, etc. I am now back to just one click when trying to start. Is it really a 30 amp on the fuse at the far right as you're sitting on the seat? I believe at one point I was told that is a 15 amp, which is what I have on there presently.

 

[3RRL]

For glow plugs, I believe a 30 amp is normal. At least that's what it is on my Jinma.
To check for a bad connection like a bad ground, using a voltmeter under "no load" is not necessarily an indication of well connected or grounder wires. You need to test the voltage while "under load" like when cranking or using the glow plugs. If your voltage then drops to near zero under load, you have a bad connection.
Greg is correct too that a low battery will cause the clicking.
Have you tried to jump across the starter motor yet to see if it cranks that way? Need to be sure your tractor is out of gear for safety sake, parking brake on etc.

 

[lakespirit]

I've got the charger on presently. Once I thaw out, I will give that a try.

 

[greg_g]

...no clue how to do the resistance checks.... ... Is it really a 30 amp on the fuse at the far right as you're sitting on the seat?

Mine's not here at the moment, so I am not sure about right and left. But I've got the wiring diagram. It shows 30A on one end, next to it is a 3A, the other three are 10A.

For accurate glow plug resistance testing, they should be removed, cleaned, and ohm'd out at room temperature (70F). But there's a field expedient test you can do on the tractor. Remove the buss bar (or jumper wires). Glow plug resistance should be under 2 ohms, so set the multimeter accordingly. Put one lead on the battery negative post, put the other lead on the exposed tip of one glow plug. Record the reading, and repeat for the other two plugs.

Glow plugs don't usually all go bad at the same time, usually it's only one. So what you're looking for is one plug that is way out of range from the other two. Ideally you're looking for good plugs in the 1.7 ohm vicinity.

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

OK, here's the duh question of the day. And the glow plugs are located exactly .....?