KAMA TS254C starter

[lakespirit]

I have checked all connections I can get my hands on. Cleaned, re-torqued, etc.

With my truck running at high RPM, I was getting anywhere from 13.68 to 14.12v at the starter, and on the battery. I was able to get the starter to turn over several times, but it still won't start.

I am not blowing fuses even when I turn on the glow plugs. I tried getting amp readings on the glow plugs, but I wasn't able to keep a steady reading. I removed them and cleaned them, but to no avail. One of the plugs was round on the inside tip while the other two were sort of flat with a slight crevice going across the tip.

As of now, I am back to clicking at the starter when jumping them with a screwdriver, or at the ignition switch.

What am I missing???

 

[greg_g]

Well - if you're jumping the tractor battery with the truck - you've defeated the purpose of the intended voltage checks. They were intended to a) determine if your tractor battery had a sufficient charge, and b) how much of that charge was making it to the starter solenoid.
1. what's the tractor battery voltage?
2. what's the tractor battery specific gravity?
3. what's the voltage between the keyswitch and the solenoid while the starter's cranking?
4. please clarify whether it's the starter or the solenoid that doing this "clicking"
5. did this clicking persist when you tried jumpstarting with the truck too?

And since you have an ammeter on the dash, checking for amps at the glow plugs is redundant. The procedure I described to you was for checking resistance. The multimeter must be set to one of the OHM scales.

So basically - you've just taken a couple of giant steps sideways.

//greg//

 

[Dave_Lilly]

Fuses blow because of an electrical short. But if your replacement fuse didn't blow, the condition was apparently temporary. That can happen when the 12v leads to the starter and/or solenoid are loose. You can get a spark gap that jumps to ground.

Verifying battery ground is important to the entire electrical system. But specific to the starter circuit, tighten the three 12v connections at the starter and solenoid;
-battery to starter
-keyswitch to solenoid
-solenoid to fuse box.

Also inspect the insulation on all three. If it's worn/burned through, one could be periodically shorting out against some metal.

//greg//

Fuses will definitely blow when there is a short to ground but they will also blow when the current draw across the fuse exceeds the fuse's rating. Since the starter uses a solenoid to make contact across the lead from the battery to the starter he should check for a bad solenoid or starter along with cleaning all battery cable connections.
I have had problems in the past with the contactor in the starter solenoid becoming corroded due to the arcing across the solenoid contacts.

 

[greg_g]

Dave is correct that pulling too much amperage also blows fuses. I left that unstated, as I gave you credit for already knowing that.

But don't arbitrarily rush out to buy a bag full of possibly unneeded new parts. The steps I advised are intended to troubleshoot to the point where you can arrive at an informed decision. I strongly recommend the suggested tests to narrow the scope of this issue. So far, it's just a generic starting problem. These checks are intended to take it down to component level: battery - wiring - solenoid - starter - keyswitch - et cetera.

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

1. tractor battery voltage is 12.9v
2. sealed battery, so I can't check specific gravity
3. 12.9v
4. solenoid
5. yes

 

[lakespirit]

When I had the truck jumping the tractor the voltage was about 14.12.

 

[lakespirit]

The mind is a terrible thing to waste, as I seem to keep forgetting tidbits of info...my fuses are NO LONGER blowing.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would take your starter off and take it to a auto parts store and have it checked. I sounds like a bad starter/solenoid to me.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

1. tractor battery voltage is 12.9v
2. sealed battery, so I can't check specific gravity
3. 12.9v
4. solenoid
5. yes

1. If that's what you get when the tractor's turned off, the battery is likely going bad (should be same as your truck battery). If I didn't qualify it before, for the purposes of this test - the engine should NOT be running.
2. You could have it load tested, but that's probably academic now (unless the engine was running).
3. Very unlikely. I asked for the voltage between the keyswitch and the solenoid while the solenoid was engaged. I'm guessing you measured that 12.9v on the wrong wire.
4. starter's not necessarily bad then. If it actually turns out to be a solenoid problem, you can replace them separately now.
5. further evidence of a bad solenoid

Take note of where the starter housing bolts to the flywheel. The bolt holes through the housing are oval, permitting (very) little adjustment between the pinion gear and the ring gear teeth. You could try repositioning the starter.

But to tellya the truth, I think the best course of action is to take the starter (with solenoid) to an auto electric shop. They're equipped to tell you right then and there if either/both are good or bad. Think about buying a new battery too.

Oh, and the fuse-blowing thing was obviously a red herring. Probably not necessary to ohm out the glow plugs anymore.

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

I'm off to remove the starter and soleniod, and get it checked on the way home tomorrow, along with a new battery.