Keep from tipping

[daTeacha]

I made up some wheel weights from junk yard iron, adding about 130 lb so far to each side. It makes a lot of difference on my DX29, even with 900 lb hanging on the hitch. Just yesterday I was moving a heavy stump that lightened the rear of the tractor noticeable when I picked it up. I was backing at an angle that would have had a wheel up previously, still sitting solidly on the ground. I drove the uphill rear onto a 4 or 5 inch log and scared myself silly, but the tractor was still quite stable.

What you need is weight far out on the sides of the tractor, like a barbell, to make it harder to tip. Weight centered in the back will hold the back end down, but will not help much to prevent rotating around the long axis of the tractor, commonly known as rolling over. I've been there with one rear wheel in the air and it does have a certain amount of, er, pucker factor to it. Especially when the tractor is on the edge of a gully that you're filling in.

If you have a junk yard in your area, get some steel plate cut to fit inside your wheels, drill it, and bolt it to the wheels using the holes the factory put there for just that purpose. I got mine for 24 cents per pound, versus 88 cents for dealership weights. I spent a couple of hours welding thick steel disks to 1/4 inch plate after locating and drilling the holes. I may add another 50 or 60 to each side. The things look okay now, will look pretty good after painting.

 

[rickmacheske]

Half loading helps. Does anyone know if there is a way to widen the wheels on a 'bota L3400?

 

[wushaw]

If you have R4's then I would also be interested in knowing how this would be accomplished since the rims are one piece.

 

[rickmacheske]

Looking at the wheels I might be able to create an interface plate between the wheels and axle. Yes, I have R4s on it. Hmmm...2" thick steel plates and a new set of bolts looks like it might work. That would give me 4" more of width and a little extra weight.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Looking at the wheels I might be able to create an interface plate between the wheels and axle. Yes, I have R4s on it. Hmmm...2" thick steel plates and a new set of bolts looks like it might work. That would give me 4" more of width and a little extra weight.

If the rims are one piece and not enginered to be made wider, I would think you might damage the axles. The NH are designed from the factory to have 6 different positions for the wheel spacing.
Bob

PS If you do it, send some photos!

 

[Bob_Young]

Consider a partial fill of the rear tires, rick. Instead of 'filling' to 75% of tire capacity, maybe only half or one-third of that. That should keep the fluid below the axle line and would be a 'stability fill' as opposed to a 'traction fill'. It would, of course, add weight but maybe not enough to affect your mowing. It seems some type of compromise is in order.

Have you checked your tractor manual for widening information? The Kubota manuals I have are pretty specific about how to go about widening the rears. Both of my Kubotas permit this, I'd be surprised to find that it's not possible for the L3400.
FWIW
Bob

 

[SPYDERLK]

Looking at the wheels I might be able to create an interface plate between the wheels and axle. Yes, I have R4s on it. Hmmm...2" thick steel plates and a new set of bolts looks like it might work. That would give me 4" more of width and a little extra weight.

This is alot of work for only a little gain. I think you said earlier that you were stable without a load. This says the instability can be beaten by heavying up the rears - - a lot. The rears are your source of stability and will make a big difference if they are a lot wider or a lot heavier - or both. I dont believe you will be able to make your stance a lot wider - say, 12" - without a lot of work and even so the tractor isnt made for it so the bearings may be overstressed. A garden hose and an appropriate and cheap fill adaptor will center 1000# just below your axle. This and a rear implement should keep the rear planted well enuff. A wonderfull added benefit is that, when filled, you tires will have a higher compression ratio - - a smaller depression or extension will respectively elevate the tire pressure more on the downhill side and reduce the pressure more on the uphill side than for an unfilled tire. The tractor will lean less. Its summer. Fill them as full as you can get them with water. Drain it when youre thru and add a little antifreeze before winter to take care of the remanent water.
No muss-no fuss.
Larry

 

[Slamfire]

I believe there was a thread about spools to make it possible to extend your track, or add more wheels a couple of years ago. One of the members at the time was fabricating some in different sizes.

 

[JoshJ]

The other thing I'd do would be to drive up and back down the slope....keep the bucket on the uphill end of the tractor...loaded or empty.

I can understand bucket uphill when loaded, moves the CG forward. But I think I'd rather have the bucket downhill if empty, less chance of roll over IMO. Not that I would know from experience living in the flatlands of Jersey, maybe you can explain this better to me?

 

[bugstruck]

I don't have to tell you that if one tire is loosing contact with the ground in a side hill traverse that's not good. You should be able to move the tires out if they are close to the fenders on the inside. Do you have a manual? That should explain the various configurations and widths available. I'd still load the tires if your experincing tires off the ground and reduce the FEL bucket loading. But you already knew that. Finally, as one poster noted, you could be asking too much of your equipment in that situation. Don't do that please. Call in equipment that can handle it or do uphill/backdown work to the extent you can.