Kickstand For Rear Blade

[Spencer]

I have a Bush Hog brand rear blade (model 35-06) and would like to mount something on it so that I can park it in the upright position. I was thinking of putting a swivel trailer jack on it but I don't know if there is enough room. I thought I should ask you all first what you have come up with.

Any ideas?

 

[Solo]

Spencer
The Woods blade that I have has a piece of what looks like schedule 40 or 80 pipe welded to it. This is a factory piece, they sell an optional kick stand for it, but all it is, is a piece of 1" cold roll and a 1/4" piece of flat stock welded together with a series of holes drilled in it. I made one for mine, cost about $20.
Solo

 

[knucklehead]

Yes - took a minute to find a picture, but <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.landpride.com/cgi-bin/byteserver/manuals/lp/pdf/311-251p.pdf>this</A> is what I've seen while looking over various manufacturers. It's the online parts manual for the Landpride tillers. Looks like the tube at the top is either is either a rolled part of the side panel, or welded on.

You could also drill through some horizontal part of your blade frame, and run a piece of rod or pipe up through, with a bolt through the rod/pipe to hold up the blade frame from underneath. You could even get snazzy and weld a large washer at that point to spread the load, and another on the bottom for a foot like the picture. Top it off with a pin through the top so it won't drop out when you lift it (in case you have to set it back down). All this could be done with or without welding.

 

[knucklehead]

In my haste to reply with my brainy idea, I missed that you gave us the make n' model. I don't know how to separate pages or lift pictures from Adobe format documents, so go to page 8 of <A target="_blank" HREF=http://bushhog.com/turftoc.html>this</A> link to see the stand for the 70 series. A couple pages down is the "stuff" for your 35 series.

 

[Kodiak]

I've done something similar to several implements before. Although my variation involves drilling a 3/8" hole in the outer pipe the welding a 5/16" nut to the pipe over the hole in the pipe. then I take a 5 or 6 inch 5/16" bolt, heat it up and bend it 90 degrees just past the end of the threads for a handle. As you unhook just loosen the handle (bolt) drop the stand to ground level and tighten the handle again. reverse for hook up.

 

[gordon]

You mean sort of like a sidewalk or curb form stake. Has various holes in it already. Just would need to weld a foot to it thats all and presto a stand.

I still need to make a decent stand for my posthole digger. I cus that rascal at times.

Gordon

 

[RoyJackson]

I use adjustable jack stands (2, acually) I got at a yard sale. Works for me...

 

[Casimir]

The first time I got ready to unhook the blade, there happened to be block of firewood (unsplit) laying there that turned out to be the right length to set the hitch portion of the blade on. Worked so good I haven't changed -- 'course I have to park it at the same place all the time or take the block with me /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

 

[Spencer]

Casimir,
That is exactly my situation, and I am getting tired of going back to that same spot or bring the log with me.

Thanks everyone for the replies, I will figure something out.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

You could also pass by the u haul dealer.Mine in town had some really neat stands to hold trailer tongues that were made out of 3/4 ridgid pipe bent like an s and welded. It was light and looked easy to make. If you don't see one like I'm talking about I'll try getting a pic.