killer chainsaw chain

[have_blue]

Jim,

Are you ordering the chains with less sharpening in mind, or for cutting roots and muddy wood and such?

If cutting dirty or gritty stuff, I would be in mortal fear of the bar groove wearing out in no time.

 

[Jim57]

<font color="blue"> (Jim,

Are you ordering the chains with less sharpening in mind, or for cutting roots and muddy wood and such?

If cutting dirty or gritty stuff, I would be in mortal fear of the bar groove wearing out in no time. ) </font>

<font color="black">
Actually, I ordered them because of the hardness to cut regular hardwood with. They should go longer without sharpening. I figured they would last longer than the regular chains and if they last 5 times as long they will pay for themselves in less maintenance and downtime sharpening. I already have hardened bars on my saws with sprockets on the nose. We are working up over 8,000 board feet of lumber for firewood for the needy and I plan on clearing another 2 acres next year if things work out for my project I have been working on.

Jim
</font>

 

[Deerlope]

A few years ago I cut and limbed over 30,000 bd ft to build a house with and never used up 1 chain.

 

[Jim57]

What type of wood?

By the way... a lot more cutting with firewood than building lumber. Includes cutting the limbs and utilizing every piece possible for firewood.

Jim

 

[OKnewguy]

JIm57, how are the chains holding up? Or anyone else for that matter. I have been thinking of getting one and was wondering how they have held up over the long hall.
Thanks, Dave

 

[gabby]

Carbide chain saw teeth are brittle. They will break off if you saw into a nail by mistake.
gabby

 

[SkyPup]

Any chainsaw chain coming in contact with an embedded nail is going to be a super dangerous situation.

 

[RonMar]

Any chainsaw chain coming in contact with an embedded nail is going to be a super dangerous situation.

I wouldn't use the term super dangerous. I have hit many and it just cuts right thru them. The chain teeth don't fare too well though and I need to stop and work the chain over before I can proceed.

 

[fire72]

As far as fire departments using carbide chains, we used carbide for a while and switched back to regular chains. Our primary use for chainsaws is cutting ventilation holes in roofs, and we found that the grit on shingles will wreck a carbide chain just as badly as it will a regular chain, except that the wrecked carbide chain cost a lot more. After being used and dulled at a fire, the chains go to the city forestry department, who resharpens them and uses them for tree trimming.

Cutting roofs does run the risk of hitting nails, which someone mentioned earlier can be dangerous. However, standing on top of a house that's on fire and cutting holes in the roof you're standing on isn't what most people would call safe either. You could slip and fall off the roof (not good) or fall through the roof into the fire (really bad) or any number of other things that can hurt you in unpleasant ways. That's what they pay us for...

Fire 72

 

[sandman2234]

Assuming the oak stumps can be cut with a reasonably hard/sharp blade, have you thought about building your own stumpgrinder? Beats the heck out of a chainsaw.
(Since this is a tractor forumn, i also assume you have access to a tractor?)

Here is a post about it, in case you haven't seen it.
David from jax

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/71073-trencher-poorboys-stump-grinder.html