King Kutter 48"

[MikeB64]

I picked up my new King Kutter tiller today. I am planning on using this with the new Massey Ferguson 2400 sub compact tractor.

Couple of questions..... In re-reading the specs, it state it's for compact tractors between 20-35 HP, mine is 23 HP second guessing myself as to if I got the right tiller. In looking at King Kutters website, I now noticed they have a sub compact section (missed it before) the specs on the sub compact tractor tillers say UP to 25 HP......did I get the wrong tiller, or am I gonna be OK?

2nd question......manual mentions cutting the PTO shaft....this thought just scares the heck out of me....I am hoping I won't have to...any experiences with using this tiller with the 2400 series MF?

Now for the dumbest question...the end of the PTO shaft with the springs goes on the tractor...correct?

Dumb question, I know. However, I would rather ask the dumb questions here rather than getting hurt, or damaging the equipment.

Many thanks in advance for all of the help I can always count on getting here!

 

[foggy1111]

Mike, KK does make a sub compact tiller line called XB. I think that's what you will want to fit your 3 point links properly...and the PTO shaft is likely a better fit too (?) but, with a little luck you should not have to cut the PTO to length to fit your tractor. The clutch (with the springs) goes on the tiller end of business and not the tractor end. You should see a round hub on your tillers gearbox which will mate with the round hub on the clutch. The other end is "splined" to fit on the tractor PTO.

If it were me, I'd talk to TSC and get it exchanged to fit your SCUT tractor. You may save a few $$ too...and the weight may be a bit less on your 3 point. I think the HP requirement would be fine with either model....it's the 3 point fit that is needed for your scut.

Errrrr....no dumb questions in this stuff....as I told my kids once: Nobody is born knowing this stuff.

 

[JDeerekid]

The 48" is made for sub compacts so you will be fine in that area. Not sure if you will have to cut the shaft.
The PTO shaft end with the springs (which is the slip clutch) goes on the tiller side.

 

[greenmule]

Well,don't be scared.

If you have to cut drive shaft,that ain't a big deal,just follow directions,idea being they[the two halfs] dont bottom out on each other when raised[at most shortest postion,] hack saw,grinder,bandsaw,will do that.

You might even be able to buy a shorter drive line,so's you don't have to cut it,go to a tractor dealer,and ask.[they make shorter and longer ones].

 

[phyxer]

First off, there is no such thing as a dumb question! Never be afraid to ask a question in life. Now as for your tiller, you are fine with the one you have. It will work just fine. As for trimming the PTO shaft there are instructions for that on here and on the WEB in general. I am not the one to talk you through it. Lastly, the end that has the spring loaded coupling is the end that goes onto the tractor PTO shaft. The end that has several individual springs with bolts going through them would be the slip clutch end and it would go onto the tiller. Hope I helped and didn't confuse.

Troy

 

[deputyrpa]

I picked up my new King Kutter tiller today. I am planning on using this with the new Massey Ferguson 2400 sub compact tractor.

Couple of questions..... In re-reading the specs, it state it's for compact tractors between 20-35 HP, mine is 23 HP second guessing myself as to if I got the right tiller. In looking at King Kutters website, I now noticed they have a sub compact section (missed it before) the specs on the sub compact tractor tillers say UP to 25 HP......did I get the wrong tiller, or am I gonna be OK?

2nd question......manual mentions cutting the PTO shaft....this thought just scares the heck out of me....I am hoping I won't have to...any experiences with using this tiller with the 2400 series MF?

Now for the dumbest question...the end of the PTO shaft with the springs goes on the tractor...correct?

Dumb question, I know. However, I would rather ask the dumb questions here rather than getting hurt, or damaging the equipment.

Many thanks in advance for all of the help I can always count on getting here!

You'll be fine in creeper range. I ran a 47" with 23 pto HP in clay with no issues. Just don't try to bite in too much - two passes may be in order. You'll get the hang of it.

The PTO shaft will be longest in the down position, submerged in the soil. Lift the tiller all the way up with your 3pt. Shut the tractor off! Take the shaft apart, attach the slip clutch end (springs) to the tiller spline, and the other end (with the spline lock spring) to the tractor PTO. Put them side-by-side and mark both ends to fit at it's full contraction. Then lower the tiller and check that you have enough remaining overlap between the marks when fully telescoped. Cut both pieces.

 

[Altex]

...In re-reading the specs, it state it's for compact tractors between 20-35 HP, mine is 23 HP second guessing myself as to if I got the right tiller. In looking at King Kutters website, I now noticed they have a sub compact section (missed it before) the specs on the sub compact tractor tillers say UP to 25 HP......did I get the wrong tiller, or am I gonna be OK?..

I actually called the #(205) 487-3202 on the King Kutter website today.
King Kutter Incorporated

I was inquiring about the Tiller TC-48-XB for another post. Give them a call, they're really helpful, friendly and will answer any questions about their products.

Make sure when your talking about HP you define between Engine and PTO HP. The Specs for Attachments, using PTOs, may be referring to PTO HP rather than Engine HP.

About cutting down your PTO shaft? No Problem, done it before. Just make sure you're toward the max amount of overlap. Cut the plastic shield maybe 2"s shorter than where the shaft should be cut, then cut your shaft. You should cut a little from both shafts, if they are already equal lengths. This will help distribute the torque (i.e. better to have two 3' lengths, than one 4' and the other only 2').

Remember "measure twice (or more), then cut once!"

 

[jnjpream]

Hi Mike,

I just did this two weeks ago for the same tiller. I have a BX22 SCUT.

The HP needed will depend on your soil.. Clay, you will need more HP. Light dry soil like I have, and you'll wish you bought the 60". But you can always make multiple passes at reasonable depths.

When you pull the PTO shaft apart you should see that the metal part of the shaft sticks out 1" - 1.5" from the plastic shield (this will be important later). The directions said that you need 3" from the shield bearing, but the fit on my tractor was so tight that if I did this I wouldn't have the 6" overlap on the SHAFT, I ended up with just an 1" gap at either end. Just remember that you cut the shaft and shield so the ends will not bottom out against the u-joints at either end when the tiller is lifted.

When figuring out the shortest distance between the tractor and the tiller, don't forget that you have an adjustable top link too. Shorten that puppy up before measuring..

When you decide where you need to cut the shield (before you cut), measure the length of the plastic that you are about to remove. Lower the tiller to the ground and measure the overlap of the SHAFT (not the shield). If you have 6" after you've subtracted the length of the removed plastic, you are in good shape (remember to subtract the total length of the TWO peices of plastic to be removed). The shield doesn't have to overlap by 6", just the SHAFT. The shield just needs to overlap as much as possible w/o bottoming.

If you have 6" of SHAFT overlap, go ahead and cut the plastic. Then cut off the same length of shaft as you did the plastic. If you take off 3" of plastic, take of 3" of shaft. Do NOT cut the SHAFT so it is even with the remaining plastic. If you do, the shaft will probably be too short and you'll be out $150 or more for a new PTO shaft.


Oh, and don't forget to loosen the clutch springs and give the tiller side of the PTO shaft a spin to be sure it isn't frozen. Then retighten the springs as needed for your soil.