Kioti Dk35 HSE won't start

[DK35vince]

Stupid question but can someone point me to where the ground in bolted to the frame?

Follow the ground cable from the battery and see where its attached to the frame, clean to cable and frame good at that point and reattach the cable

 

[k0ua]

If I remember correctly it is on the right side of the frame near the front... but as said just follow the negative cable. and it will lead you to the bolt. Be sure to let us know how you make out . I always use a grease on all connections as well to prevent corrosion. Tractors seem to be worse for corrosion than most auto's. i suppose being out in the weather a lot of the time does not really help things.

Here is a link on Amazon for some of these relays.

Amazon.com: 5 Pack - EPAuto 3/4 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style: Automotive

 

[ritcheyvs]

It sounds like you had a bad start relay but you actually replaced a good stop relay with the one from NAPA. When, when you swapped connectors between the identical start and stop relays you moved the bad relay to the stop circuit so you could crank the engine but the bad relay (now in the stop solenoid circuit) prevented it from starting.

Here's the thing: you really can't identify the start and stop relays by their location on the firewall because the connectors could be switched, even from the factory.

Since you have a spare relay on hand (which is probably OK) try substituting it for the two stock (start and stop) relays one at a time. If you have a bad relay, as indicated by your troubleshooting, it should start after you replace the true bad one.

 

[k0ua]

It sounds like you had a bad start relay but you actually replaced a good stop relay with the one from NAPA. When, when you swapped connectors between the identical start and stop relays you moved the bad relay to the stop circuit so you could crank the engine but the bad relay (now in the stop solenoid circuit) prevented it from starting.

Here's the thing: you really can't identify the start and stop relays by their location on the firewall because the connectors could be switched, even from the factory.

Since you have a spare relay on hand (which is probably OK) try substituting it for the two stock (start and stop) relays one at a time. If you have a bad relay, as indicated by your troubleshooting, it should start after you replace the true bad one.

I am about convinced to actually buy some of these relays for spares. I have never had a lick of trouble with mine, but as many people that come on here and post with relay trouble, I wonder how long it will be before I do. Having some spare on hand does not sound like a bad idea. The smart thing to do would be to swap in the spared now and put up the original OEM relays as known good relays, ready to put back in at the first hint of cranking or lack of fuel delivery problem. probably wouldn't hurt to have the 70 amp glow plug relay either.

 

[BDougherty]

The tractor is starting now! Knock on wood I think the problem is solved thanks to the help from everyone here. I tried everything suggested but I believe that the problem was the stop relay. I also believe that the relay from Napa was either defective (most likely) or the wrong one. I returned the Napa relay and got another put it in the start relay and got nothing. Replaced everything and moved the new relay to the stop relay and there she goes! Went ahead and purchased the five pack from Amazon. Thanks again for all the help. I really like this tractor but I hope not to have to constantly hunt down electrical issues but if I do I know where to go for some answers!!
Thanks again,
Bryan

 

[k0ua]

The tractor is starting now! Knock on wood I think the problem is solved thanks to the help from everyone here. I tried everything suggested but I believe that the problem was the stop relay. I also believe that the relay from Napa was either defective (most likely) or the wrong one. I returned the Napa relay and got another put it in the start relay and got nothing. Replaced everything and moved the new relay to the stop relay and there she goes! Went ahead and purchased the five pack from Amazon. Thanks again for all the help. I really like this tractor but I hope not to have to constantly hunt down electrical issues but if I do I know where to go for some answers!!
Thanks again,
Bryan

The only electrical issue I have had with mine was the key switch. A shot of Fluid film and it has worked 100% ever since, and that was 4 years ago. It has been a very reliable tractor... Oh, I take that back, I had the cruise module cold weather problem. When the temp was below 20 degrees the tractor would start in any range not just neutral. That was replaced under warranty. The tech came to the house and replaced and tested it in about 5 minutes. Only some of the run of modules had the problem. And none of the latter ones.

 

[kantuckid]

Thread recycle.
My 2010 DK35SEhas a similar problem. I was getting an intermittent but sometimes normal start so I checked out my battery and it was a tad low on voltage but not enough IMO to be the issue. I put a modern electronic jump pack on and it started but had not started using my old HF jumper pack-which possibly means nothing sine it was intermittent to begin with. I then checked the OE factory Interstate 75month battery and found it was 125 months old by calling the mfg. as the code was molded in such that it was hard to read. Side note on battery: per google info Interstate and Walmart Maxx are same batteries now. I will throw in that the old 75 mo battery was obviously heavier than the replacement with same CCA and CA ratings & Walmart has 3 year free replacement plus cheaper than all AP's box stores and Lowe's iusig my 10% vet discount.
Tractor does not start with new battery but was low on water from store so I topped it off and placed back on Battery Tender I mostly use in off season when tractor sits more.
Voltage is OK on battery and enough to start it, so I doubt the tender will "fix" things...
I read through this thread and will check the negative battery cable now. I already checked for PTO, etc. as this model it's bad for your knee to hit buttons when not intended.
Next to check would be a relay as I get a slight click on key turn before lunch break. Before new battery it either started or low click.

 

[kantuckid]

I found the cable to frame contact point rusty and cleaned it up but same no start.
My shop manual shows the outboard relay as the engine starter relay, 20/30amp with letters FVBD (on the tractor) and preheater relay 70amp in middle, and engine stop relay inboard 20/30 amp letters JIVD (on the tractor). Guess I'll try buying a relay?

Bought a new generic relay, tried new one and switching around the stop start relays too, same meager click.
In a.m. I'm going to hit it with the booster pack if no start after battery on tender all night. Next after that is stater solenoid across the top.

 

[grsthegreat]

I found the cable to frame contact point rusty and cleaned it up but same no start.
My shop manual shows the outboard relay as the engine starter relay, 20/30amp with letters FVBD (on the tractor) and preheater relay 70amp in middle, and engine stop relay inboard 20/30 amp letters JIVD (on the tractor). Guess I'll try buying a relay?

On my dk45 the 2 smaller relays are actually flipped from what manual shows. I verified this by unplugging each one and testing.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I found the cable to frame contact point rusty and cleaned it up but same no start.
My shop manual shows the outboard relay as the engine starter relay, 20/30amp with letters FVBD (on the tractor) and preheater relay 70amp in middle, and engine stop relay inboard 20/30 amp letters JIVD (on the tractor). Guess I'll try buying a relay?

If you haven't already, squirt some WD-40 in the key hole and cycle the key several times (and repeat).