Kioti DK40SE HST starting problem
- Thread starter Typhoon
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Looking4new
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2012
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- 9,909
- Location
- Northern Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- 2012 Kioti CK27HST w/cab
I think with all that you've already done, I would chase a bad ground and then take a serious look at the glow plug timer.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
The display module controls the glow plug relay, BUT you mentioned wiggling some wires? In the science of troubleshooting the act of replacing parts sequentially is called "the shot gun approach" This can occasionally affect a repair, but is a very inefficient and costly way to troubleshoot a problem. A far far better approach is to do some measurements and form a hypothesis and then test that hypothesis. Did you take a voltage measurement on the glow plug buss? Do you have a VOM and know how to use it? If the answer to one of both of those questions is no, I would suggest you would be money ahead to take the tractor to the dealer for repair or to some other qualified repair facility.
murph1
Gold Member
This guy knows what he is talking about. Also with the shotgun approach you don't know what parts are still good or bad.
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Typhoon
Gold Member
I agree with ya about the shotgun approach. I have a fluke meter, and I tested for voltage on glow plug bus during preheat. Problem is, I got intermittent readings. The first several turns of the ignition switch to preheat, i got zero volts. But then the 7th or 8th try, I got voltage. My dad is an electrician, so I am somewhat experienced in troubleshooting electronics. However, the preheat circuit on these tractors is new territory for me. I will do more testing and report back. My hope was that replacing the preheat relay would fix it. Relay was 15 bucks. Didnt work so I will keep working on it. I probably should invest in a shop manual too.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Yes, that would be money well spent. You have what is known as an intermittent. The absolute worst kind of trouble in any kind of electronic circuit. They say that He77 for an electronics tech is to be tasked to fix a room full of intermittent items. But you can fix this, The next thing I would try to eliminate is the control of the coil of the relay coil by the display module. In other words, is it the display module or not. Or is this some kind of connection problem at the relay pins or what.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
On my DK45s, the no-glow/no-start problem turned out to be the key switch. You can replace the switch with new or disassemble and clean/lube it (but don't lose spring-loaded parts).
A quick fix that worked for me is to spray some WD-40 (or electrical contact cleaner) in the key hole and cycle the switch several times. Many of us now do that as routine maintenance.
A quick fix that worked for me is to spray some WD-40 (or electrical contact cleaner) in the key hole and cycle the switch several times. Many of us now do that as routine maintenance.
OP
Typhoon
Gold Member
Ok so I did some more testing this eve. Here is what I found. I first disconnected the 4 prong plug from the preheat relay, and tested the plug when turning ignition to preheat. When the ignition is turned to preheat, i get 12v on one of the side connections. When the preheat light goes off, voltage drops to zero. All good. I then plugged the connector back to the relay, and the relay clicks when ignition is turned to preheat. So it seems that the relay is working properly. However, with that being said, I am still getting zero volts on the glow plug bus every time. The glow plugs are not being energized. So the problem is somewhere between the relay and the plugs. Im open for suggestions as to my next step.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Ok, almost there. So either the relay contacts are burned and not conducting (yes I know you put a new one in but that don't mean a thing) or the connections on the relay plug are defective. Or a wire is broken. The battery connection to the relay contact is Orange and the feed to the glow plug buss is Orange/Brown or so my manual says. In any case you should have battery voltage standing on one contact and it should switch it to the other. Take a pin and pierce the insulation if you need to to get a reading after the relay in energized by the controller for the 8 seconds. (I said 15 earlier but that is wrong, it should be 8 seconds) So find the battery voltage and see if the contacts switch it to the load of the glow plugs. After the engine starts, it post glows for 15 seconds, even though the glow plug indicator on the dashboard does not show that.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Those orange and orange/brown wires should be 5mm thick. So pretty big wires. Look at the bottom of the relay. pins 30 and 87 are the contacts, and pins 85 and 86 are the coil. You already know the expensive controller and apparently the temp sensor in the block are good or else the relay coil would not have energized and the relay would not have pulled up. But you say it clicked, so it pulled up, now all you have to do is measure for 12 volts on one of the contacts wires. Orange, and see that 12 volts leave the other side of the relay contact and head for the glow plugs on the orange/brown wire. Man you are within a gnats behind of having this thing fixed.