Traction Kioti DK50 will not go into 4-WD

[SSdoxie]

A few checks to help identify where the problem is:
When you had front wheels off the ground and rotated one wheel, did the other wheel rotate in opposite direction at same speed? If it did not then problem is in the front drive axle.
At the shift lever going into gear case; remove the linkage rod going up through the floor, put an alignment mark on the end of shaft going into the gear case and on the lever. Shift the lever by hand, press firmly and see if the marks are still lined up. If marks are not aligned, the pin going through the shaft is bent or broken.
If the first 2 tests are fine, remove the front axle drive shaft cover (probably 1 bolt at each end) slide the telescoping cover back to see the shaft. At 1 end the shaft will have a pin through the shaft yoke and the gear shaft, at the other end there should be a splined coupler with a pin through the middle. Remove both pins and take drive shaft out to inspect. Then try rotating the output shaft at the gear box. With transmission in gear, wheels on the ground, you should be able to rotate the shaft while in rear wheel drive only and not able to rotate in 4X. If you can rotate it in 4X then problem is inside the gear case.

 

[k0ua]

A few checks to help identify where the problem is:
When you had front wheels off the ground and rotated one wheel, did the other wheel rotate in opposite direction at same speed? If it did not then problem is in the front drive axle.
At the shift lever going into gear case; remove the linkage rod going up through the floor, put an alignment mark on the end of shaft going into the gear case and on the lever. Shift the lever by hand, press firmly and see if the marks are still lined up. If marks are not aligned, the pin going through the shaft is bent or broken.
If the first 2 tests are fine, remove the front axle drive shaft cover (probably 1 bolt at each end) slide the telescoping cover back to see the shaft. At 1 end the shaft will have a pin through the shaft yoke and the gear shaft, at the other end there should be a splined coupler with a pin through the middle. Remove both pins and take drive shaft out to inspect. Then try rotating the output shaft at the gear box. With transmission in gear, wheels on the ground, you should be able to rotate the shaft while in rear wheel drive only and not able to rotate in 4X. If you can rotate it in 4X then problem is inside the gear case.

You always have the most logical, easy to follow and understand diagnostic procedures:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[AmberBear]

A few checks to help identify where the problem is:
When you had front wheels off the ground and rotated one wheel, did the other wheel rotate in opposite direction at same speed? If it did not then problem is in the front drive axle.
At the shift lever going into gear case; remove the linkage rod going up through the floor, put an alignment mark on the end of shaft going into the gear case and on the lever. Shift the lever by hand, press firmly and see if the marks are still lined up. If marks are not aligned, the pin going through the shaft is bent or broken.
If the first 2 tests are fine, remove the front axle drive shaft cover (probably 1 bolt at each end) slide the telescoping cover back to see the shaft. At 1 end the shaft will have a pin through the shaft yoke and the gear shaft, at the other end there should be a splined coupler with a pin through the middle. Remove both pins and take drive shaft out to inspect. Then try rotating the output shaft at the gear box. With transmission in gear, wheels on the ground, you should be able to rotate the shaft while in rear wheel drive only and not able to rotate in 4X. If you can rotate it in 4X then problem is inside the gear case.

From AmberBear
With the front end lifted, when one wheel is rotated, the other turns in the opposite direction. So, the front end seems to be OK at this point.

The shift lever into gear case is not exactly as I interpret from the above description. It appears to be one piece where it goes into the transmission case, the rod does not seem to be visible from looking outside the transmission case. Like the rod shaft fits into a cupped hole as opposed to a hole drilled completely through the shaft yoke. The travel of the yoke is only about 1/8 of a revolution, it seems pretty short, but it seems to be the same amount of travel as it had when it worked properly. If there is a pin for the shaft, (and I think there is) it appears to be on the inside of the transmission. These are just my suppositions, I know none of this for certain. I removed what linkage I could, no effect that I could observe.

Will attempt removal of front drive shaft cover tomorrow, unless some kind soul has an insight that will direct me to another possible solution.

Thanks much for the suggestions!

 

[adirondackmtnman]

It has worked in the past and the clincher is the yellow label next to the left heel actuator, indicating UP for 2-WD and DOWN for 4-WD./QUOTE]

Just curious...how does one disengage the 4wd after engaging it? Is it a two sided toe-heel lever, or does the operator have to try to catch their boot on it and raise it? Have you tried to disengage and engage it again? Possibly while moving may help things mesh if something's out of alignment...just grabbing at straws there, your machine may not allow shifting into 4wd while moving...

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

 

[AmberBear]

The 4WD actuator on my DK50 is a "T" handle that can be pushed down with the left heel. To disengage it, I just pull it up with my left hand. My right heel actuator is to lock the rear wheels. I always have engaged/disengaged the 4WD when the tractor is at idle and not moving. I have tried to engage/disengage it many times. I have tried backing it up and then attempted engaging/disengaging, nothing. I have tried it with all of the linkage removed and crawling under the tractor to reposition the lever where it enters the transmission case, nothing. Still in 2WD drive. I will check the front drive shaft next.

I will follow up on the other suggestions and give a status

 

[AmberBear]

:dance1:
Many thanks to all who responded. Special thanks to Dennis & Scott. It is fixed - sort of. The problem is the left heel actuator, specifically the linkage. Following Dennis's suggestion, I removed the linkage and attempted to engage it by hand. No luck.

The linkage lever that attaches to the shaft that goes into the transmission is flat stock, bent in a sharp edged "S". The lower end of the "S" is welded to about 2" of tube stock that fits over the shaft that enters the transmission. The tube stock is pinned to the shaft using a hollow pin. I was able to stick a solid pin through the hollow pin in the top and bottom position and the transitory positions in between. In other words, the tube stock pinned to the shaft is intact and undamaged. Nothing wrong there that I could observe.

According to the shop manuals and other documents I could review, the shaft that rotates like what I call a Bendix gear that somehow engages the FWD to the drive shaft. The Bendix gear shaft rotates only about 22 degrees to do the actual engagement. It just does not feel like it is far enough.

The short of it is if I lift the front wheels off the ground and with the 4WD linkage removed, I can engage the 4WD drive if I reach under the tractor and jiggle the sharp "S" welded to the end of the tube that is hollow pinned to the shaft that goes into the transmission while slowly rotating one of the front wheels back and forth by hand. The shaft seems to rotate just slightly more than 22 degrees and locks in solidly.

I suspect the other end of the shaft that goes into the transmission has a slight burr from abuse when my tractor was borrowed. You would think I would learn not to loan my tools. In any event, I can get it into 4WD without spending a small fortune.

It works, that is good enough for me. However, any constructive comments would be most welcome.

thanks to all, Mike

 

[AmberBear]

:dance1:
Many thanks to all who responded. Special thanks to Dennis & Scott. It is fixed - sort of. The problem is the left heel actuator, specifically the linkage. Following Dennis's suggestion, I removed the linkage and attempted to engage it by hand. No luck.

The linkage lever that attaches to the shaft that goes into the transmission is flat stock, bent in a sharp edged "S". The lower end of the "S" is welded to about 2" of tube stock that fits over the shaft that enters the transmission. The tube stock is pinned to the shaft using a hollow pin. I was able to stick a solid pin through the hollow pin in the top and bottom position and the transitory positions in between. In other words, the tube stock pinned to the shaft is intact and undamaged. Nothing wrong there that I could observe.

According to the shop manuals and other documents I could review, the shaft that rotates like what I call a Bendix gear that somehow engages the FWD to the drive shaft. The Bendix gear shaft rotates only about 22 degrees to do the actual engagement. It just does not feel like it is far enough.

The short of it is if I lift the front wheels off the ground and with the 4WD linkage removed, I can engage the 4WD drive if I reach under the tractor and jiggle the sharp "S" welded to the end of the tube that is hollow pinned to the shaft that goes into the transmission while slowly rotating one of the front wheels back and forth by hand. The shaft seems to rotate just slightly more than 22 degrees and locks in solidly.

I suspect the other end of the shaft that goes into the transmission has a slight burr from abuse when my tractor was borrowed. You would think I would learn not to loan my tools. In any event, I can get it into 4WD without spending a small fortune.

It works, that is good enough for me. However, any constructive comments would be most welcome.

thanks to all, Mike

 

[SSdoxie]

The linkage I described is what is currently used on the CK models. Is a cast/machined shaft that goes into case and has a 90 degree offset for it to hook into the splined sliding collar. Guess Daedong upgraded the design to make the shaft stronger so the week point, if try to force it, is in the roll pin at the outside.
Sounds like someone tried to force yours without putting F/R lever in neutral or stepping on the clutch and bent something internal. Any chance there is an access or inspection plate on the gear case that you could get in there without splitting tractor. Pr0bably too much to wish for.

 

[AmberBear]

There is no access or inspection plate. Such is life...

 

[AmberBear]

Dennis, are you implying that the linkage shaft actually rotates 90 degrees? Or is that just the offset and the rotation is what I observed - about 22 degrees.
Mike