Kioti LK3054 Flashing Voltage Dash Lamp

[retiredfarmer]

Thank you Dave.

Next I need to read up on the cub cadet dash lamp fault.

RF

 

[Kioti Paul]

I agree with Dave that a reading of .001 - .003 volt is just "background noise". I was not as specific as I should have been earlier, but I was thinking that a few tenths of a volt drop would be significant, I did not realize your meter had that small of a scale.

From your reading now (14.36), it seems your charging system is operating properly. I cannot think of a reason why your dash light flashes, then stops at 1900 RPM. Was the light flashing while you were getting the latest voltage reading? If your dash light still is flashing, does your voltage readings fluctuate (in the same "rhythm" as the flashing)?? With the dash light flashing (and work lights off) you might try checking for any AC (~) voltage across the battery (maybe a diode has gone bad??) If 200 v is the smallest scale, it may not be sensitive enough.

Anyway, from my understanding of charging systems, (and not specific to Kioti), I do not think an open diode would cause the dash light to come on,,, so I guess I am all out of ideas. Sorry I couldn't help, but I bet someone on this site will come up with a fix (lots of experience here!)

 

[retiredfarmer]

Paul,
I thank you for your help.

I am wondering about alternators and energizing of the field (?). On the Case 580 I have, the voltage light comes on when I start it until I rev the engine above 2000rpm then the light stays off.

RF

 

[Dave M7040]

This usually indicates a patch up alternator installation not (OEM), likely a Delco, which uses the warning light circuit to turn on the alternator.

Dave M7040

 

[Kioti Paul]

RF,

Right up front, I have no knowledge at all about what alternator / regulator Case uses, or how they are wired; but I feel confident that what is happening is the residual magnetism in the rotator is finally building up enough voltage (at 2000 RPM) that it can excite the field circuit. As Dave says, this is very common on "after market" (or add on alternator kits). These are commonly called "1 wire alternators" for the very simple wiring required (just 1 wire from the battery to the alternator) these alternators all have the regulator built in. The draw back to that is that there is no exciter circuit, which very often requires high RPM's to get it to begin charging; after which it should continue charging regardless of engine speed. Sometimes you can lower the "kick in" RPM by 'flashing' the rotor (field circuit), which magnetises the rotor as strongly as possible (as practical). The way to do that depends on what alternator you have.

If this is a Case factory charging system, then you have a bad regulator, or wiring to the regulator, as I can't imagine that a factory would not wire in an exciter circuit.

edit: since (I just recalled) you remarked about the "voltage light" - I ***-u-me it is the "factory light", so since it is still 'wired in', I am going to guess that we are talking about the factory installed charging system???

 

[retiredfarmer]

Yes. This tractor still has all the factory parts and wiring. I致e checked what I can. The battery voltage is staying at 14.36v while this light is flashing. It stops flashing as soon as I turn on the headlights and thereby add a load to the system. For now I am just running the tractor with the headlights on, so I do not potentially start an electrical fire using the tractor.

 

[retiredfarmer]

So, I finally dug into this issue a bit more. The ignition switch stopped working and I ordered another OEM switch and it did the same thing.

This led me to unwrap the wiring harness and run the wires to the switch and follow them. Somehow, down by the starter, two wires in the bundle were without insulation and shorting. Seems like at some point they were rubbing on something and the previous owner just wrapped them together with electrical tape. Well, they found each other and were shorting. I fixed this. But it did not cure the voltage lamp blinking.

The headlights are now alternating between bright and dim. I just put a new voltage regulator on the tractor, so I started looking at the alternator.....
Voltage test with multimeter showed 14.8-15.7V off the battery post to ground with the tractor running. 12.8-13.5V tractor running with the lights on. I pulled the alternator off and took it to the auto parts store to get it checked. At $250 for a new OEM alternator, I wanted to ensure it needed replaced.

There was no cross references to a Kioti or Mando alternator in order to check it on their machine. The guy behind the counter swore he just sold one that looked just like it though. He looked through the recent sales and pulled up an alternator for a 1979 Mazda B2000 truck on their computer. It looked identical, and was $56. We put my old alternator on their diagnostic machine and it failed, putting out 30.56V I had him order one of the Mazda truck alternators and we will compare them tomorrow.

 

[K5lwq]

Let us know how it works out. Hopefully that will solve the issues.

 

[retiredfarmer]

Issues solved.

The Generic direct replacement alternator for a Kioti LK3054 is the alternator for a 1979 Mazda B2000 pick-up. Same exact alternator down to the 4 pole pigtail plug.

 

[K5lwq]

That is great news!