KIOTI no start, electrical

[stancel]

I am out of ideas with my CX2510. It will crank when cold, but once warmed up it isn't getting power to the solenoid and doesn't turn over.

I have checked the PTO, Neutral, and Clutch safety switches and all have 12v passing through. Tested starter relay and ignition switch and both are good. Also verified the start fuse and made sure I was getting 12v on both sides. I don't think it is a short or compromised wire insulation because it only happens after it warms up, then no problems after sitting a couple hours.

I can unplug the solenoid and jumper it no problem and it operates as it should.

Anybody have any ideas?

 

[Roadworthy]

If you can unplug the solenoid and jumper it for the tractor to operate normally it may be the solenoid. More specifically it may have an intermittent connection internally - perhaps a bad solder joint. Take a resistance reading of its coil when cold. Remove it from the tractor and pop it into your oven (not microwave!) and heat to 150 or so. Take the readings again. If they increase dramatically you've found your problem.

 

[stancel]

If you can unplug the solenoid and jumper it for the tractor to operate normally it may be the solenoid. More specifically it may have an intermittent connection internally - perhaps a bad solder joint. Take a resistance reading of its coil when cold. Remove it from the tractor and pop it into your oven (not microwave!) and heat to 150 or so. Take the readings again. If they increase dramatically you've found your problem.

I ruled out the solenoid because I get no voltage at the solenoid harness when I turn the ignition key to start. I should be getting about 12v.

 

[MTGreen]

Does your start circuit have a relay? Relays can be heat sensitive.

If not you need to chase the voltage. Start at the battery, then check for power at the ignition switch in then out, then the various interlock switches in turn both in and out until you come to the solenoid. It's just a big loop battery-ignition switch-interlock switches in series-solenoid-ground through solenoid body-battery ground. There's a heat sensitive break in that loop somewhere and you can methodically check through it by chasing the voltage

 

[Roadworthy]

It's time to break out a schematic. You need to determine which components may be warmed as the engine comes up to temperature. You may also wish to put an ammeter in series with some wires to determine if a current is being drawn somewhere when there should be none drawn. What you perceive as a heat related issue may be due to stray currents passing in the circuit when the key is turned on. This one may take some time and a bit of head scratching.

 

[stancel]

It's time to break out a schematic. You need to determine which components may be warmed as the engine comes up to temperature. You may also wish to put an ammeter in series with some wires to determine if a current is being drawn somewhere when there should be none drawn. What you perceive as a heat related issue may be due to stray currents passing in the circuit when the key is turned on. This one may take some time and a bit of head scratching.

Unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram for this thing.

 

[Robin Veerman]

I’m thinking that it may be a relay. I’ve had issues and replaced a relay which solved the issue I was having. Try banging or striking the relay to see if there’s any change…see next post

 

[Robin Veerman]

Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30

Hey guys, So for about 18 months I've been fighting with the ignition switch on my 2014 CK30 HST. Every once in a while I would have to spray some light oil into the switch and all would be good for a while. Eventually it got bad enough that I bought a new switch and installed it 2.5 months/25...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[MichiganIron]

I am out of ideas with my CX2510. It will crank when cold, but once warmed up it isn't getting power to the solenoid and doesn't turn over.

I have checked the PTO, Neutral, and Clutch safety switches and all have 12v passing through. Tested starter relay and ignition switch and both are good. Also verified the start fuse and made sure I was getting 12v on both sides. I don't think it is a short or compromised wire insulation because it only happens after it warms up, then no problems after sitting a couple hours.

I can unplug the solenoid and jumper it no problem and it operates as it should.

Anybody have any ideas?

Your tractor has a Safety Start Controller mounted on the side of the transmission below the seat pan. Contact your dealer and replace the Safety Start Controller. The controller reads all of the safety switches, determines glow timing, and sends the start signal to the start relay. If you have already checked the seat switch and the start relay, you probably need to replace the Safety Controller Unit.

Hope this helps

 

[ruffdog]

Your tractor has a Safety Start Controller mounted on the side of the transmission below the seat pan. Contact your dealer and replace the Safety Start Controller. The controller reads all of the safety switches, determines glow timing, and sends the start signal to the start relay. If you have already checked the seat switch and the start relay, you probably need to replace the Safety Controller Unit.

Hope this helps

Like this? Do they have different ones depending if it has a mower?