Loader Kioti & Polebarnzilla

[MotorSeven]

All Done!

Well we started out square, but the poles(varied diameter) threw us off a few inches. This means that I will have to pop a line on the tin and cut it off so the overhang looks right...no biggie.
I'm back to working alone and got all the rafters cut off today. I also got a forth of the purlins up before the rain came. It sure goes slow when you don't have a "driver"

 

[Coyote machine]

Looks great!:thumbsup:
Curious as to why you didn't notch(birdseye) the rafters where they overhang your horizontal beams attached to your poles?
Also, are you going to cut off the extension of the poles as they point to the sky?
I'm guessing a Stihl 192T top handle saw?
DK-40 is THE machine!!

 

[MotorSeven]

CM, I could have notched them, but I figured if I was going to strap each one it would be overkill...no?

I will cut those big poles off later, but remember the center barn roof beams will sit on them so they have to extend above the shed roof-I'm guessing by 3' or so. The pitch ended up being a 2/12 & I have not decided if the center roof should follow that or be higher. A 2/12 is a lot easier to work on though....

Yes a 192T, it's a fantastic small saw. I have a scabbard for it on both my wheeler and tractor so it is always handy.

 

[Coyote machine]

I would say to think of any fastener as an added safety precaution. Structural support via gravity is much more important and the basic principle of sound structure. One has to consider movement prevention too- thus things like hurricane strapping to reduce wind effects etc. When one support a piece of lumber by laying it on top of another- as you would have seen in timber frame construction, notching is a big factor in providing necessary structural support. Fasteners themselves are not enough to overcome shear strength issues; for instance nails, bolts etc. So whatever you can do to reduce the effects of things like snow load wanting to shift the position of your rafters, or any other component of your pole barn the better. A beam is best if it has its load centered over it so that the downward force is only down and not able to move sideways or bow out away from the beam, as one example.
For the size of the pole barn you are building I would at least consider consulting with a structural engineer or at the very least a lumber yard's designer( cad/cam drawing tech) to possibly have some drawings done to help plan out what makes most sense from a structural aspect. I have had this done several times, and it can be very useful to help think things out on paper prior to doing them in the field on a trial and error basis. Especially on the scale you are talking about. It is not too costly to do this, and most larger lumberyards provide this type of service for an hourly rate.
And as to overkill- I would tend to overkill the heck out of that structure, especially with the weather weirdness we have been experiencing over the last few years. Its easier to overkill now and have the building stand for a long time than to try to retrofit later if problems come up. You could also contact any truss company and they can tell you what the snow load factor is in your area- as another factor to build into your structure.

I have the exact same saw and it is AWESOME! I bought it from a guy who was buying another saw at our local dealer, when one of mine was biting the dust. We got talking and he showed me the saw- which he planned to keep as a backup, and I offered him cash and we made a deal- I like it best of my assortment of saws. It cuts wood like crazy and it is light weight too.:thumbsup:

One last thing- look for star drive(Torx) lag screws. They are awesome and will really add some strength to whatever you have to pull together. They are available in various lengths. They also make ledger bolts that are equally as strong and will not cam out. Some have hex heads and some are star drive. You can drive them with oscillating drive drill/drivers or with hammer drill/drivers. Either way they will blow you away as to what they can do that you can't do with other fasteners.

 

[MotorSeven]

I'm already onto the torx thing. The only 2.5 & 3" deck screws I use now are Hillman Project Center Power Pro....they are the best I have ever used..no splitting the wood and never strips the head. For the log home I am going to use 9" Assy's & they use a tapered T-40 bit...they drive like butter.

Hillman's: https://www.honeydohardware.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2804
( I don't buy them here, my local hardware store carry's them & I buy by the 20lb case....way cheaper)

Assy's:
The rep's name is Will Leverett-will.leverett@cox.net
http://www.logandtimberconnections.com/

http://www.logandtimberconnections.com/

 

[kattywumpus]

Nice Job. Look simple to build compared to the timber frame house I built. Now you have me thinking. :thumbsup:

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks...the stinkin rain has me at a standstill....it's a mud hole out there right now. I think I'm getting cabin fever..........

 

[MotorSeven]

Well, it took a long time for things to dry out. I got the tin up a few weeks ago: 82'x17'-$980. I then put hurricane clips on every rafter(fun) & cut knee braces out of Hickory. I pondered what to side it with...A) trees from the farm, cut and skidded out of the woods, then milled by me, or B) buy a load of Poplar and mill them myself, or C) buy "culls" from a local sawmill.

When I found out I could get 1000bf of Poplar(mixed with some ash & oak) for $135 I chose "C". That's about 6x cheaper than I could have bought a load of logs and then dome all the work myself. The bundle of culls was in various lengths out to 16' and most 4 quarter thick(1.25") & 6" wide or better. There was enough 12'ers in the bundle to do the entire 80' side wihout having to piece it. On the endwall I just used all the left overs and mad a seam 6' high. There is even a few left over to start on the other endwall if I decide to enclose it.

I will scavange 4 more big poles one of these days and plant them for the main section of the barn. I won't get to build that section for proably a year or more.

 

[MotorSeven]

 

[milkman636]

Looking good. Are you going to apply any kind of finish to the wood? or just leave it natural?

 

[MotorSeven]

I am going to spray a clear preservative on the exposed beam & rafter ends on the tall side since they will be out in the weather until the rest of the barn is built. The rest will "el-nature-al"

 

[kattywumpus]

Simple but very nice, wish I had one, much better then the temp shelter I have. This pole barn reminds me of my great grand father's tractor/implement/wagon barn. He had one very large barn for hay and the animals. Parallel to the large barn’s north side was a very long tractor/implement/wagon barn. One end of the barn was fully enclosed with a door for a repair shop. The remainder of the barn was open in the front like you’re so he could back the horses or tractor up to the implements or wagons. All gone now, wish I had pictures.

If electric is not available at the barn location have you thought of installing some solar lights? You could mount the solar panels on top of the poles and run a wire to the lights in the barn. Of course this all depends on the sun’s location.

 

[MotorSeven]

KW, the last pic is the North side, so solar is possible once the main roof is on. Power is available, $10 a month min & I have to have a panel, one light and a switch to get hooked up so that is the best route.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the update. The sheer size of it is just amazing!!!

Eddie

 

[JoelD]

Great solution
So simple
Shows us all it be done

Thanks
Joel

 

[kattywumpus]

KW, the last pic is the North side, so solar is possible once the main roof is on. Power is available, $10 a month min & I have to have a panel, one light and a switch to get hooked up so that is the best route.

Agree, for min of $10 a month that makes the most sense since you might want to use a welder or compressor in future.

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks for the update. The sheer size of it is just amazing!!!

Eddie

Eddie,

You know I initially was going to do 60'. Then a guy on RimfireCentral.com said, "hey if you go 80' you can have an indoor range"....:thumbsup:. So I made it 80' and after filling two bays with hay, one with sawmill lumber, that leaves one tiny 20' bay left and we still have we still have more hay to cut and bale.
So, it looks like I need to hurry up and build the center section and the other drop shed......quick. 80'x50 should be the finished size and it just won't be big enough when filled with "stuff"(said in a George Carlin voice)

 

[kattywumpus]

Eddie,

You know I initially was going to do 60'. Then a guy on RimfireCentral.com said, "hey if you go 80' you can have an indoor range"....:thumbsup:. So I made it 80' and after filling two bays with hay, one with sawmill lumber, that leaves one tiny 20' bay left and we still have we still have more hay to cut and bale.
So, it looks like I need to hurry up and build the center section and the other drop shed......quick. 80'x50 should be the finished size and it just won't be big enough when filled with "stuff"(said in a George Carlin voice)

It appears your have plenty of room to do just that. That should give you plenty of room for hay, lumber, workshop, shooting range, and 2nd floor man cave in the center section. Lets us know when it done so we can have a "TractorByNet" party! :thumbsup:

 

[bindian]

Rick,
I can not wait for the rest.:thumbsup: Lookin' forward to it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[MotorSeven]

The dang barn is gettin smaller every day:laughing: