KK stump jumper removal??

[Skyco]

I, of course, can't see the end of the splines on the gearbox end, I wonder if they ramp up where the milling machine comes out of the round stock. That could explain some major "jammage" where the internally splined hub bottoms out. No corrosion apparent on mine yet so that doesn't appear to be what is holding it on so firmly, then again it could be an interference fit also....
I did find a problem with leaving the cutter outside- the access hole for the blade bolts lets rainwater accumulate in the stump jumper over time, when I up-ended the thing a couple of quarts fell out. Need to make a cover for the bolt access hole I suppose....

 

[joe48]

I guess I need to check my KK stump jumper and see if its holding water. Maybe drill some drain holes anyway.

Here's an old trick I've offered here on other threads.

If you can get access to the the joint/mating surface area, wrap a rag around the shaft, then keep the rag soaked with household ammonia. If can't get access ok then just use a sprayer bottle and keep spraying the area. Let it soak for at least 24-48 hours.

Sounds crazy ,but it works and I've used it many times. On several things where I thought there was no way. The best one was on the lower control arm bolt of a Honda, tried all the usual stuff, broke a good Craftsman puller, was ready to get out the flame wrench , but remembered this trick. 24 hrs later, hit it twice with a big ball peen, bolt almost popped completely out with two hits.!!

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

......wonder what the ammonia does?

I guess I need to check my KK stump jumper and see if its holding water. Maybe drill some drain holes anyway.

Here's an old trick I've offered here on other threads.

If you can get access to the the joint/mating surface area, wrap a rag around the shaft, then keep the rag soaked with household ammonia. If can't get access ok then just use a sprayer bottle and keep spraying the area. Let it soak for at least 24-48 hours.

Sounds crazy ,but it works and I've used it many times. On several things where I thought there was no way. The best one was on the lower control arm bolt of a Honda, tried all the usual stuff, broke a good Craftsman puller, was ready to get out the flame wrench , but remembered this trick. 24 hrs later, hit it twice with a big ball peen, bolt almost popped completely out with two hits.!!

 

[Bamatonz]

Thanks to this thread and another I removed mine in about half an hour including reading and gathering tools!

I wrapped chain around the straightened blades and placed a bottle jack between the shaft (nut on, turned upside down) and the chain. I pumped the jack until tight and continued to pump until I said to myself ****, this thing isnt going to come off. Sure am glad I decided to pump one more time. BANG! The chain and jack hit the ground. I removed the nut, and slid the stump jumper right off. I replaced the seal, put it back together, and was off to working on my disc. Thanks for the help guys!

:thumbsup:

 

[tomf]

Just replaced a gear box seal yesterday. Thanks to everyone in this thread for your advice.

Here is a synopsis of my ordeal. Maybe it'll help someone in the future.

1) Removed the PTO shaft. I had to cut the shield in order to remove the shear bolt and a "C" ring retaining clip,

2) Used my loader with chains to stand the mower upright so I could access the stump jumper and eventually remove the gear box.

3) Removed the retaining nut with a 1.5 inch wrench. Luckily it wasn't on tight. It came of with a simple jerk of the wrench.

4) Removed the stump remover. First thing I did was soak the shaft with penatrating oil. I tried the chain and bottle jack method listed in the post above but it reached a point where it was not working so I decided to use some 7/8th steel rod and a 3 pound hammer. The steel rod was placed through access hole in the deck. To my surprise, on the first whack the stump jumper broke free. The chain and bottle jack were still applying pressure when I whacked it.

5) I then removed the four bolts holding the bottom cap on. This was fruitless because the bottom cap was stuck on.

6) Because step 5) failed, I removed the gear box.

7) I used thin putty knife to remove the bottom cap from the gearbox.

8) Pried the seal out with a screwdriver.

9) After cleaning the surfaces, installed the new seal with a socket.

10) I did not know the required torques so I used universal torque values based on size and grade of the bolts.
For the four bolts holding the gear box on I used 100 ft-lbs. For the 4 bolts holding the bottom cap in place I used 30 ft-lbs.

 

[MarkV]

You sure did better than I did. The bolts holding the gear box loosened up on my KK rotary mower, 10 years old, and I nor my mechanic couldn't get that dang stump jumper off with anything. Finally torched a hole in the stump jumper and tack welded the bolts after tightening.

MarkV