I recently purchased a King Kutter 84" tiller. It's been raining every day for over a week and water is standing everywhere, and another 7 days of rain are in the forecast. It will be some time before my soil dries enough to get into the garden, and I'm getting the itch. While I'm waiting, I built a simple wood cart with 4 caster wheels to move the tiller in and out of a storage corner in the barn.
I also added a S-hook to the exisiting back gate chain, crimping one end so it hangs on there permanently. By leaving the other end half open I can adjust the gate height easily by looping the hook on a higher link to shorten the chain temporarily.
Then i added 2 pieces of Uni-Strut, cut to fit between the outside edges of the gate and the welded tab that holds the lower end of the chain. I dipped the cut ends in some yellow paint. I drilled and bolted the Uni-Strut through the 1" square tube along the lower edge of the gate, using 3 bolts per side. I added 3/8" Uni-Strut nuts and had some 'knob bolts' that fit those nuts. Regular bolts would work but knobs really make adjustments a breeze. I think they can be bought at Lowes, etc. A trip to TSC landed me 4 cultivator points. The 'knob handled' bolts hold on the cultivator points and can be adjusted easily. They can be slid anywhere along the Uni-Strut to match my row spacing. I have it set up for four 28" rows in the pictures. Since the welded chain tab is slightly off center, I can also set up 3 rows with the middle one centered if I want. You can see the points hang down about 3 inches below the gate with the gate raised about 7" above the lowest cutting tines. The gate should be dragging the soil and the points cutting nice rows as it is set up now. I also show how I can rotate the points out of the way within seconds when needed.
I also added a S-hook to the exisiting back gate chain, crimping one end so it hangs on there permanently. By leaving the other end half open I can adjust the gate height easily by looping the hook on a higher link to shorten the chain temporarily.
Then i added 2 pieces of Uni-Strut, cut to fit between the outside edges of the gate and the welded tab that holds the lower end of the chain. I dipped the cut ends in some yellow paint. I drilled and bolted the Uni-Strut through the 1" square tube along the lower edge of the gate, using 3 bolts per side. I added 3/8" Uni-Strut nuts and had some 'knob bolts' that fit those nuts. Regular bolts would work but knobs really make adjustments a breeze. I think they can be bought at Lowes, etc. A trip to TSC landed me 4 cultivator points. The 'knob handled' bolts hold on the cultivator points and can be adjusted easily. They can be slid anywhere along the Uni-Strut to match my row spacing. I have it set up for four 28" rows in the pictures. Since the welded chain tab is slightly off center, I can also set up 3 rows with the middle one centered if I want. You can see the points hang down about 3 inches below the gate with the gate raised about 7" above the lowest cutting tines. The gate should be dragging the soil and the points cutting nice rows as it is set up now. I also show how I can rotate the points out of the way within seconds when needed.
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