I went to start the tractor today and it just quit trying to crank. I took the starter off and put a battery charger on it. I put the ground on the body and the red on the lug then used a screw driver to jump over to the small tab. it clicked out and ran like it was suppose to. I put it back in the tractor. I checked voltage at the battery...12.7. at the big lug on the starter...12.7. both with the key off. I turn the key on and turn the start button and nothing happens. so I check the voltage at the starter when I turn the start button and the voltage drops to .02vts. I checked the starter small terminal and it shows its grounded. is it suppose to be? any ideas will be great thanks.
kubota 185 wont start
- Thread starter thetucks
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Soundguy
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ok.. so you got a dead battery or real bad cable connection.
it doesn't show grounded.. it shows a real low ohm load.. the MOTOR!
it doesn't show grounded.. it shows a real low ohm load.. the MOTOR!
Soundguy
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um.. what connections do you have between the battery and the starter??
that's where i'd look
that's where i'd look
Soundguy
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PS that includes all solenoid terminals and trhe actual battery cable and ground terminals, and the ground lug to the frame.
rust and paint are not conductors.
also.. check the starter mount flange.
rust and paint are not conductors!
check the cable.. you can have a rotten cable with corosion upo unde rthe insulation and into t he lead or brass terminal or copper end..
rust and paint are not conductors.
also.. check the starter mount flange.
rust and paint are not conductors!
check the cable.. you can have a rotten cable with corosion upo unde rthe insulation and into t he lead or brass terminal or copper end..
brain55
Veteran Member
Do the oil pressure and battery lights come on when you turn the key on? Will it crank normally when jumped across at the solenoid while in the tractor? No lights would point me to the fusible link. Not cranking while being jumped at the solenoid would point me towards cables. You said you had a load tester. I would hook it up to the battery cable at the starter and a good ground on the block probably the starter or its attaching bolts and do the load test again if it fails now you know it is likely in the cables or the attachment point of the ground cable. If it passes the load test but does not crank when jumped at the solenoid it will be the starter after confirming that you can turn the engine over by hand.
Brian
Brian
okay I put the load tester on the cable where it hooks to the starter. and put the negative on a ground on the tractor. it reads over 12 volts like it supposed to but as soon as I push the load test it immediately drops down to 0.
brain55
Veteran Member
That means you have a cable or ground connection problem.
EE_Bota
Elite Member
As you know, current runs in a loop. What goes out the + terminal has to come back in the - terminal. Look at Soundguys list of suspects again. Also, you knew how to make the starter work with your battery charger. You can jump to that tab and test it on the tractor using the battery instead of the charger. If it works fine, the problem is in the circuit that powers that tab on the solenoid. IF it doesn't work, it is a large connection or the starter or the solenoid. To eliminate the solenoid, you can jump from one large terminal to the other large terminal on a solenoid usually.
But find out which side is not working...the high current side with big terminals or the low current side. That tab's current comes through fuses, the starter switch, safety interlocks, etc. So you need to discover if your problem is in the high current side or the low current side of things so you will know where to concentrate your efforts.
Soundguy
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sounding like cable or connection so far..
Thank you for all your help guys...and I am amazed by the fast responses from you all. As it turns out it is a ground problem. I took the cable off. hooked right to the positive side of the battery and hooked the negative to the tractor grounded. same thing happened. strait to zero. I will begin trying to find out why the ground is no good tomorrow. its too dark tonite, and as we all know the tractor has to break down outside with the loader and blade all the way down, instead of inside my warm shop. Thanks for all your help you guys are awsome.
EE_Bota
Elite Member
Hi, I don't know what you mean by what you said. But you certainly seem to have found something that is meaningful to you to work on and I am glad. It takes a great deal of care to write about electrical problems such that you know the other fellow will know what you mean. I struggle with it all the time, and I frequently fail to get my point across clearly. You have a meter, and the tractor right there too, and I wish you luck. Let us know of your success. If you have any questions though, I for one cannot comment in any way on the above post because I did not understand it from an electrical point of view.
Soundguy
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any word back?
brain55
Veteran Member
I was wondering the same.
Soundguy
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looking forward to it.
i too , didn't understand your comment above.
but clean places bat ground cable attaches too.. clean bat terminals and cable ends.. check for corrosion in wire.. check conenctions at solenoids and switches, and at starter post, and starter to chassis.
i too , didn't understand your comment above.
but clean places bat ground cable attaches too.. clean bat terminals and cable ends.. check for corrosion in wire.. check conenctions at solenoids and switches, and at starter post, and starter to chassis.
As it turns out it is a ground problem. I took the cable off the starter hooked right to the positive side of the load tester.and hooked the negative to the battery. The battery tested good. I took the Positive cable off the battery and put theload tester right on the battery. And put the negative side of the tester to the tractor ground. strait to zero. Does that make more sense?
Soundguy
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uh.. no...
EE_Bota
Elite Member
Maybe...let me say it back...when you do a load test by connecting directly to the negative battery post and to the far end of the positive cable, you can drive a load through the tester. But when you connect the positive post and connect to the tractor frame, you can't drive a load through the tester, suggesting that the current won't go from the negative post to the tractor frame. I think that is what you are saying, and that sounds like a valid test.
I don't actually own a load tester, so I would not do that test...but it is a very good test if I understood correctly.
