Kubota 2013 L3560 HST..."New" at dealership...9 hours??

[4570Man]

I have them on my Grand L, but I want some for Grandpas L3800. What would be even better is extendible 3 point arms like on the Grand.

 

[wcampbell47]

Re Transport: I will trailer often...from home where I have 80 acres of mostly woods...with probably just under 1 mile of trails and a 2-3 acre field that I mow once a year...will mow more often if I have an appropriate mower. Note it is not "lawn" but does look nice when mowed by a mower (not brush hog'd). I trailer to a cabin on a small lake about 30 miles away...there I mow cabin lot...and also have another 40 acres about 1/2 mile from the cabin. That 40 acres is my "avocation". It has close to one mile of trails that need to be maintained, added to and widened a bit. I also do a lot of small tree work there...the 40 acres is both a natural blueberry patch and also a White and Red Pine natural seedling patch. Since the deers eat nearly 100% pf the White Pine new growth I fence in the your White Pines...the Reds do fine by themselves.

Soooo...I will be trailering 30 miles and back at least a dozen times a summer. Depending if I get a MMM I may also need to transport a lawn/garden tractor.

With the L3560 I would not have a MMM so my LT/GT would be another item to transport...may not fit all on at once.

My guess is any L series and likely B series will require a dual axle trailer and may make sense to get a pretty long one IF I went up to the L3560 I might even be pushing 3/4 ton PU size?

Part of the multiple ramifications of my choice. My current uses w/o a tractor are more centered around Sear's lawn tractor (25HP, 42" deck, and wheel weights and chains). Also have a DR Brush Mower and various chain saws...a "saw on a stick" and other hand tools. I have no doubt I would find an amazing amount to do with a heavier and more powerful CUT like the 3560...otherwise I will use B series or maybe BX (unlikely) to do what my LT currently does and "build" tasks from there.

I am 68 years old so best get started soon Tom R

I am 68 with an L3901 which I trailer often. I struggled with a 16 ft tandem axle and steel ramps for several years. I had a local trailer guy build a "tilt bed" for me. Great trailer, no ramps, easy to load and unload. I fooled around and bought a one ton truck and a dual axle dump bed trailer (goose neck) which I set up with a king pin (same as rv fifth wheel). I have since acquired a goose neck car hauler to trailer the L3901 on. For me the king pin setup is so much easier than bumper pull as I usually switch between trailers at least once a day. If you want to spend the bucks a tilt bed goose neck can be had. I should sell all the "spare" equipment I have and go that route. Right now I am using aluminum ramps acquired from Northern Tools. Way lighter than my steel ramps.

High Capacity Truck Ramps | Ramps: Arched, Folding, Telescoping + Utility Ramps | Automotive | Northern Tool + Equipment

The 5,000 lb ramps will hold an L3901. Very light and easy to move. By the way. The L3901 and any five foot implement takes up all of my 20 foot car hauler. I can strap down the front loader as well as the implement on the rear properly for transporting. The car hauler has dual 5200 lb axles. I have 7700 lbs of capacity with this trailer. As I said I tow with a one ton. I would not go less than a 3/4 ton as a tow vehicle with this rig.

 

[TMR]

I am 68 with an L3901 which I trailer often. I struggled with a 16 ft tandem axle and steel ramps for several years. I had a local trailer guy build a "tilt bed" for me. Great trailer, no ramps, easy to load and unload. I think a tilt bed trailer might be a luxury I need to consider...would likely ease the load/unload process. I fooled around and bought a one ton truck and a dual axle dump bed trailer (goose neck) which I set up with a king pin (same as rv fifth wheel). I have since acquired a goose neck car hauler to trailer the L3901 on. For me the king pin setup is so much easier than bumper pull as I usually switch between trailers at least once a day. If you want to spend the bucks a tilt bed goose neck can be had. I should sell all the "spare" equipment I have and go that route. Right now I am using aluminum ramps acquired from Northern Tools. Way lighter than my steel ramps.

High Capacity Truck Ramps | Ramps: Arched, Folding, Telescoping + Utility Ramps | Automotive | Northern Tool + Equipment

The 5,000 lb ramps will hold an L3901. Very light and easy to move. By the way. The L3901 and any five foot implement takes up all of my 20 foot car hauler. I think 20' may be minimum as I want to haul w/loader and brush hog or other rear implement. I can strap down the front loader as well as the implement on the rear properly for transporting. The car hauler has dual 5200 lb axles. I have 7700 lbs of capacity with this trailer. As I said I tow with a one ton. I would not go less than a 3/4 ton as a tow vehicle with this rig. May have to move theoretical new tow vehicle from a new Chev Canyon diesel, past a 1/2 ton full size all the way up to a 2500 series...guess that would not be hard to take.

Thanks Tom R

P.S. I am going to tell my wife that "the guys" on TBN told me I "have to have" a new 3/4 ton pickup Thanks...TMR

 

[GPintheMitten]

Yes you must have it. And it must be 4wd.

 

[Fallon]

Depending, a running of the mill double axe trailer might not be enough. Cheaper trailers usually have 3,500lbs rated axles, giving you a capacity of just over 7,000lbs (ignoring a couple hundred lbs of hitch weight). The trailer itself will probably weigh 2,000lbs, leaving you with 5,000lbs for tractor & implements. Probably enough, but it depends on the tractor & implements.

Remember, a longer trailer gives you more room to balance the load so you get proper hitch weight.

I towed my L3200 (with loader), back blade & rotary cutter home behind my 2009 Toyota Tacoma, which has a 6,000lbs tow rating (I was close or just over) Brakes, suspension & power (in order of importance) were all tapped out, but it was fine for a half hour backroads trip. But I now have a beater F250 for future hauling needs as I don't want to beat up my Tacoma.

Hauling, maneuverability & tearing up the lawn are the only real drivers to get a small tractor. A bigger tractor will be capable of a lot more. I'm guessing 75% of the time or more I've seen people talk about improperly sized tractors here on TBN they want a bigger one not a smaller one.

 

[TMR]

Depending, a running of the mill double axe trailer might not be enough. Cheaper trailers usually have 3,500lbs rated axles, giving you a capacity of just over 7,000lbs (ignoring a couple hundred lbs of hitch weight). The trailer itself will probably weigh 2,000lbs, leaving you with 5,000lbs for tractor & implements. Probably enough, but it depends on the tractor & implements.

Remember, a longer trailer gives you more room to balance the load so you get proper hitch weight.

I towed my L3200 (with loader), back blade & rotary cutter home behind my 2009 Toyota Tacoma, which has a 6,000lbs tow rating (I was close or just over) Brakes, suspension & power (in order of importance) were all tapped out, but it was fine for a half hour backroads trip. But I now have a beater F250 for future hauling needs as I don't want to beat up my Tacoma.

Hauling, maneuverability & tearing up the lawn are the only real drivers to get a small tractor. A bigger tractor will be capable of a lot more. I'm guessing 75% of the time or more I've seen people talk about improperly sized tractors here on TBN they want a bigger one not a smaller one.

Thanks Fallon...I may lean to a bit lighter/smaller than the L 3560...either a B series of a smaller L series. I appreciate your comment about longer trailer and heavier duty axles (even on the dual axle trailer). I think if I went smaller L as the high end of my choice range (say L 3301)...and had a quality 20'+ trailer...I could work with placement to get proper tongue weight...and travel the 30 miles of back roads using my Land Cruiser at least until I buy a new vehicle. This would also provide experience with the tractor choice, the trailer choice and how the tow vehicle performs.

Thanks...Tom R

P.S. I would probably buy a trailer with a weight rating for a larger tractor should I, like other, find I want to move up in tractor size later...actually think I may want to look at a "tilt bed" trailer as WCampbell47 mentioned above. TMR

 

[GPintheMitten]

That L3301 looks to be a very capable tractor. It weighs a lot more than my B2620 and is 5 more hp.

 

[jeff9366]

Any concerns about "time in lot"?...ie more than 2 years on lot with 9 hours of "demos"?

I would inspect for is rodent damage to wiring and potential rust on chrome FEL lift arms. Anything wrong now, rodents, paint fade, etc. can be covered as Kubota warranty repairs if you negotiate it as part of purchase.

Kubota dealers (generally) get two years credit from Kubota before they have to pay for inventory. That is why your dealer wants to move this specific tractor.

Also, any comments on regeneration on the 3560s??

I have had my L3560 since January 2013. No problems with regeneration other than parking the tractor for 16 minutes during regen, once every 60 hours. I have 620 hours on the engine.


Any notable changes from 2013 to date? None

Note that an L3560, the Baby Grand, is only a few inches longer and wider than a 'B' but it is MUCH heavier. Mine is 5,500 pounds with LA805 FEL and L2296 HD-RB Bucket, air in R4 tires. I had a B3300SU, the L3560 is much more tractor; better in every respect.

*** GREAT TRACTOR ***


From Kubota L3560/LA805 Operator's Manuals:

HST Tractor-------------------------3,649 pounds (presumably with Ag tires)

LA805 Loader-----------------------1,279 pounds

L2296 72" Round Back HD Bucket--397 pounds

R4 Indusrial Tires over R1s----------175 pounds

TOTAL------------------------------- 5,500 pounds


You will find this thread interesting: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/316605-kubota-l3560-rear-storage.html?highlight=

Further advice: Buy KTAC tractor insurance. (Kubota Tractor Acceptance Corp.)

www.ktacinsuranceagency.com

 

[Fallon]

That L3301 is the same tractor as my L3200 give or take the tier 4 emissions stuff & probably a smoother 3pt. Personally I've been mostly satisfied with it & its been what I needed. I say mostly because after blowing & plowing snow this winter I'm really wanting a cab. I'd also like a little bit more lift & power on occasion. So I'm thinking about upgrading to a pimped out cabbed Grand L at some point. I have 0 regrets about buying my economy L3200 when I did with the budget I had though. I'm on 5 acres & couldn't imaging going with anything smaller & being satisfied at all.

A word of warning, the economy L tractors are more or less unsafe unless you load the rear tires with something. Even then you need an implement on the back when using the loader.

Do yourself a favor & get the loader with the SSQA attachment. I can dump my bucket & put on pallet forks in 2 minutes. Which is good considering I use my forks as much if not more than my bucket.

I put R4 industrial tires on mine & have been satisfied in their compromise. They are a compromise between carrying capacity, durability, flotation & traction. They don't have as much traction as R1s, especially in mud (probably snow), but I don't have issues on dirt at all. I just tossed chains on the front & fixed my snow traction issues. You need wheel spacers to be able to fit chains between the rear tires & the fenders. I have the rear chains but can't use em. Now that the front chains have proven very adequate I might sell the rear chains rather than get spacers. Spacers do make it more stable, but I haven't had issues & like my 60" width for maneuverability. I also have a 61" blower among other things & would need to upgrade some implements.

 

[Fallon]

That L3301 looks to be a very capable tractor. It weighs a lot more than my B2620 and is 5 more hp.

Tractor weight defines what it can do, HP is just how fast it will do it. On YouTube there are great photos of old 18hp steam tractors schooling 500+HP John Deere pulling tractors hard. Its not even close to a fair fight despite 10x the power. Weight owns power for getting the job done with traction.