Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

Getting ready to install a back up camera along with a loader mounted front camera so I can see the pallet forks and cutting edge on the bucket. I'll be sort of copying Waxman in some respects.

Will also be installing amber LED traffic bars front and back for snow removal safety, so the roof will be coming off as well.

Ever wanted to shut down the tractor but leave the radio on while working nearby? To do this I'll be adding a couple of Schottky isolation diodes, one on the ignition switched 12 volts to the radio and another to the same point from the "rear outlet"* aux 12 volt supply through a toggle switch. (The diodes prevent 12 volts from the always on Aux from flowing back into the switched ignition circuit.)

*The rear outlet is a 10 amp fused connector that's tucked in the left rear corner behind the seat (didn't even know it was there until I saw the fuse and went looking for it!). I'll tap into power there and run the wires up under the left rear vertical trim - - at least that's the plan. The amber LED bars will use the same DC source.

BTW, amber flashers are regulated in some states. NV requires you to apply for a permit - - $2 a year :c) - - guess they don't want everyone and their brother lighting up the highway with flashing strobe lights.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

Front camera mount:



Parts to clamp mount on front stabilizer bar.



The camera boom removes easily. It's also possible to pivot it back out of the way when working with brush etc.




In "Waxman's" install, the camera boom is mounted to the left side of the loader. I wanted a centered mount, figuring it would be easier to view pallet forks from directly behind. Also, with a 130 degree camera view angle and center mounted, all of the bucket cutting edge is visible.

Next is mounting the monitor and wiring, then followed by rear camera install.

best,

bumper

 

[bumperm]

The RVS uses a multiplex box to tie it all together, I could find just one location for it, as shown. It's mounted with 3 small squares of 3M mushroom dual lock tape. Ignition switched power for the multiplex was obtained from the parking brake warning switch.



Wire to the two cameras is routed down the right side of the console and back to the right fender well alongside an existing wire loom. A utility knife is used to cut the layerd foam and the top layer is then torn out to make room for the additional wire loom. The wire for the front cam exits the cab bottom at the inboard edge of the fender while the rear cam wire continues up under the inside trim and is then routed up the right rear corner post (remove plastic rivets fixing interior trim cover by backing out plastic phillips head screw, then pull out "rivit") If using a joystick mounted button to switch select cams, that 3 conductor wire goes to inside the inner fender cover as well. To remove this ccover, unscrew mounting screws on under side of fender.



The optional hydraulic 3rd function joystick handle is shown. I drilled a hole in the inboard side of the housing and installed a single pole, double throw (SPDT), center off toggle switch to select which camera to view. With the RVS system, this switch will also turn the monitor on (though the monitor still must be powered from ignition switched 12V). The joystick mounted switch was used, rather than a reverse sensing switch, as the Kobota doesn't have a convenient back up switch and I deemed it more work to install one :c).



Roof removed. Power for amber light bars was obtained by splicing into the left most wire loom (large yellow black - positive, large black - negative, these wires are fused 25 amp and power the air conditioner blower and several other items.

Enough for one post, more to follow.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

The underside of the roof, showing the three connectors (front and rear light bar, rear camera). Roof is easy to remove - remove three gray plastic caps near center of roof liner (these just snap on to cover 10mm hex head bolts), remove bolts. Next remove all 10mm hex bolts around perimeter of roof, including two that are through extended strap brackets at the rear. Some bolts are much longer than others, no need to keep track of what goes where as the correct bolt length is obvious. Roof is light but ungainly, so you will need two people to remove or replace.

Forgot to mention, when roof is removed is a great time to replace the speakers. Stock speakers are okay, higher quality replacements sound much better, even to my tired old ears. I used these:

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R14X2 Prime 4-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: Car Electronics

though any good 4 inch speaker should do. Note that the old speaker grills were used as the new, more rounded ones had clearance issues with headliner. Could have sanded off offending part, but the old ones fit nicely. Also note that Kubota uses mounting screws into loose nuts on the backside, so it is not possible to remove speakers without access to the backside by removing roof.



The rock was not even visible without front cam, nice to be able to see exactly what loader bucket is doing. That said, the 130 degree fish eye view does take some getting used to.



Rear view with grid lines (lines can be menu deleted), note the 3-point hitch lower links are visible to aid in implement alignment. My 6-O'clock "Messerschmidt twitch" never did work well, so I'm one of those that has to twist my body around to look directly aft. Sometimes this kills the engine if the seat switch is left operational (mine has been jumper wire disabled). So the rear cam is a really nice!







The front mount easily removes w/ no tools and also adjust fore and aft or simply swings back out of harm's way if need be.



Rear cam position. Roof is double wall, hollow, so all wiring was routed inside roof. Butyl rubber tape (caulk) used to seal roof penetrations. One would probably never notice, but cab is not exactly square to tractor, off a few degrees, thus to get rear cam grid lines aligned properly, it was necessary to slightly (0.060") shim one side of cam mount to get it straight.





Pallet forks - I could never see the tips before - - moving rocks is gonna be easy!



When not playing with the tractor.

best,

bumper

 

[bumperm]

Control heads for amber light bars are mounted to an aluminum plate using adhesive mount Velcro. Switch to right (on rear support column trim) removes power from light control heads. Light bars are wired to 12 VDC continuous (no ignition switched), as there may be times when it's desirable to have lights operating with ign off. Switch is necessary as light bar control still draws .120 amps (120 ma) when control button is off.



Switch above radio is used to apply power to radio when tractor ignition switch is off. Nice to have the option to listen to radio when working near the tractor when it's not running. The wiring to accomplish this is relatively easy and is all done on the radio pig tail (the wires that run from the radio to the Kubota radio plug in.

Requires two isolation diodes and an on off switch (of course). The cathodes (banded end) of the two diodes are connected together. The + (ignition switched) wire to the radio is cut and one diode is spliced in series with this wire - cathode side of the diode/s toward radio, anode towards Kubota wiring plug. The second diode will have a wire connected to it's free (anode end) and this will go to one side of the new on-off switch. The other side of the on-off switch is spliced to the radio's always hot (battery, or memory keep alive) wire.

Isolation diodes are necessary as other wise the switch would back feed 12 volt bat positive to the ignition circuitry. I used 8 amp Schottky diodes as thier voltage drop (loss) is low, about .120 volts. Regular diodes (5 amp or so) would work too - they drop about .7 volts.

bumper

 

[PapaPerk]

Front camera mount:

http://s674.photobucket.com/user/bumperm/media/IMG_0885_zps5dce5f8a.jpg.html

Parts to clamp mount on front stabilizer bar.

http://s674.photobucket.com/user/bumperm/media/IMG_0886_zpsbb2fe255.jpg.html

The camera boom removes easily. It's also possible to pivot it back out of the way when working with brush etc.




In "Waxman's" install, the camera boom is mounted to the left side of the loader. I wanted a centered mount, figuring it would be easier to view pallet forks from directly behind. Also, with a 130 degree camera view angle and center mounted, all of the bucket cutting edge is visible.

Next is mounting the monitor and wiring, then followed by rear camera install.

best,

bumper

Nice work! Good to see everyone being creative and making their own modifications and accessories!

 

[bumperm]

Thanks Papaperk!



Couple of things I forgot. When installing a "bucket cam" on the frontloader, if you have occasion to remove the loader for other front mount implements (in my case, that would be a front mount snow blower), then it's necessary to have a quick connect for the camera wiring so you can easily disconnect that along with the hydraulics.

When wiring the camera, I pretty much followed the loader's hydraulic line back to the quick connects on the right side of the tractor. The camera wire is cut at this point and a connector installed. The wire has 5 individual wires and the yellow video wire also has a separate shield, so a 6 conductor connector is used*: Amazon.com: 5 Kit 6 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug: Car Electronics

You could use a 4 or 5 conductor connector if you give up the audio monitor function on the camera (probably not needed anyway) and the video wire shield can usually be left disconnected with no problems on the monitor (at least that was my experience during testing - -still better to run the shield though).

When running the wire with the hydraulic lines through the anti-chafe covering, I slid the wire through a length of 1/4" ID teflon tubing (McMaster-Carr on line). This tubing is slipperier than snake snot on a flat rock and reasonably tough, but it doesn't bend to a tight radius - - thus it's well suited to go with the hydraulic lines which should also not be bent tightly and will protect the wire well.

Up forward, where I needed to extend the wire protected along the bottom of the boom arm, and there were no steel hydraulic tubing to attach the wire to, I used a length of carbon fiber kite spar material 1/4" ID as conduit. This was then cable tied to the steel hydraulic lines up higher on the boom. The kite spar is narrow enough that it tucks up under the boom in the recess there and is out of sight.

Split wire loom (the corrugated black vinyl stuff) is used everywhere else to keep wiring clean looking and protected.

all the best,

bumper

 

[WaxMan]

Nice work bumperm, the best compliment one can receive, thanks for the credit. Finally, someone gets my camera. Isn't it just great to see what you're doing.
It makes sense being a pilot, you want to know whats going on:thumbsup:
Nice work.

I learned a little too late to start a new thread when posting a new project. That way, someone can find it later. I never would have looked here if not for your resent post directing me. If I was looking for camera mods. As time goes by it will be even harder to find your camera.

I didn't see anything you posted on 3/30/14 or 4/3/14 or yesterday until now. It's not too late, just start one now before too many people post. Copy and paste is a great feature.

 

[bumperm]

Added hydraulic top and tilt:







Cutting off original clevis on tilt cylinder. Original fixed left lift link was cut and each end welded to tilt cylinder - cylinder disassembled first to prevent heat damage to seals.
All part from Surplus Sales except for restricter inserts (.032") that I made for each cylinder to slow them down for more precise positioning. Total cost less than $400 including a few extra fittings and hoses.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

I really goofed when I "reorganized" my photos in Photobucket. Didn't realize it would screw up the images in my previous posts. Haven't figured out a good way to undo the damage yet. Sorry.

If anyone knows how to edit old posts so I can update the photo links, please let me know.

bumper