Kubota Clutch Replacement

[HappyOne]

I my L4350 has 1555 hours on it I bought it 9 years ago with 900 hours. When I first got it if I took it down the road in high gear, the clutch would slip on hills. Third would slip in a real steep one in front of my house. I would always work in the low ranges, and move loads in the first two high range gears without problems. Earlier in the year, before I changed the fluids, I moved about 100 large cedar trees in to burn piles. I had no issues with the clutch slipping, and that was working the tractor pretty hard.
This year, when I changed the gear oil I noticed right away, that it would slip in all the high range gears with a heavy load. This summer I started doing large scale (10 acres) finish mowing with a 11 foot Land pride. I took it out to do some dirt moving, and now it will only move a load in the lowest two low range gears.
This was my first oil change in 300 hours. I used Kubota UDT.

It's pretty clear that it's due for a new clutch, but am I wrong for thinking it's odd that the fuid change would have such a big impact?

 

[ctjstr]

Not at all. In fact its very common on stuff like motorcycles with a wet clutch OR those with a dry clutch and leaks. If you leak new fluid on a clutch disc, or have a wet clutch and change to something like synthetic, it can be just enough to tip the scales on a marginal clutch. Sounds like its just time to bite the bullet.
Have fun.

 

[HappyOne]

Thanks for the reply!
I will have to call the local Kubota dealer on Wednesday. Anyone want to guess what a L4350 with shuttle shift will run for the clutch swap? Not sure I have the right equipment to try this myself.

 

[machmeter62]

Thanks for the reply!
I will have to call the local Kubota dealer on Wednesday. Anyone want to guess what a L4350 with shuttle shift will run for the clutch swap? Not sure I have the right equipment to try this myself.

E-mail tractorsmart.com: They are a great group of guys that will give you tech. advice, and a good competitive price on the clutch plate and etc. They can also give you the address for a Kubota service/tech. manual if one is needed for your project? My dealings there, they always tried to prevent me from buying/spending for more parts than required. Tractorsmart deals in Kubotas only.

This is a "WAG" only, but most shops here in the "Golden State" for repairs are close to $100/hr. +/-......I would guess maybe at least $1000 or more if other problems are related?? But I maybe WAY wrong!!?? If a new pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel re-surfacing are required, it could be 3X>!!?

I didn't read your post too close; was the clutch linkage to it's limit, and still slipping? Sounds like clutch abuse with that few of hours?

 

[Kernopelli]

Last summer I was in the same predicament you are in. I Had to baby the clutch for some time and eventually got to the place that I had to replace it. I was very apprehensive to do it myself, mostly because I had never done it before. I searched the forums here and got a good idea of what it would take and with my manual in hand, took the plunge. The only time I needed a second set of hands was to line everything back up on reassembly. It was actually a very straight forward process and after I got done I was not only pleased that I had saved at least 50% compared to having someone else do it for me but was very proud of the accomplishment. I would say that anyone with a good basic mechanical aptitude and tools can do it no problem. The only "unusual" tool needed was a clutch alignment tool- I used a fine thread bolt I had lying around with a few wraps of tape around it and it worked perfectly. After I split the tractor I had to wait on a different T.O bearing to be shipped to me, otherwise it would have only been a one day project.

 

[john_bud]

Usually it's about 1/3 for parts and 2/3 for labor. If the flywheel needs to be surfaced or other "issues" pop up labor can be higher.

If you have a leak, you also need to fix that. Possibly the input shaft seal on the trans.

Normally, I'd say you are only 1/3 to 1/2 way to needing a clutch, but it sounds like you are doing a lot of activities where the clutch gets feathered a lot. (Loader work is killer!). See if there is a heavier duty disc you can get. After market or even ceramic. May be better suited to your uses.

The swap isn't all that hard. You do need some larger tools than found in a common 3/8 or 1/2" drive set, but not too many. The tough part is the emotions of pulling the halves apart! Well, that and the size & weight of the parts!!

jb

 

[RickB]

Stay away from ceramic or metallic clutch discs. They last longer, but place severe wear on the flywheel and pressure plate. A worn out pressure plate is no big deal, but premature replacement of a flywheel is. Everyone is assuming this tractor has a dry clutch, does it? A hydraulic shuttle and independent PTO usually mean no dry clutch.

 

[HappyOne]

It is a hydraulic shuttle. So what does that change?
I don't "ride the clutch" typically. I'm usually in the lowest gears when working, and only may slip the clutch when starting out in a high range gear. Even then only briefly, often just letting the shuttle do the work.
I have also never adjusted the clutch as their has always seemed to be some pedal before it disengages.

Thank you for all the help!

 

[john_bud]

99% sure it's a dry clutch.

Kubota just went to wet clutches on the newer larger machines.

You may want to try adjusting the clutch. It may be all it needs.

jb

 

[charlz]

I haven't seen/used one of these tractors. Is it 'shuttle shift' as in you just move a little lever and it goes to that gear? or is it more of a 'power reverser' where you can change direction with the flick of a lever? or both? Just curious.

I looked at a parts diagram for an L4310 which should be real similar to your L4350 (thank you kubotabooks). It would appear to me there are two clutches. A dry clutch (it appears dry) which is likely the one you 'clutch' with and a hydraulic clutch which is probably the one for the shuttle shift.

Since it is slipping under load I would lean towards the main foot clutch being out of adjustment or worn out. In the parts diagram it looks like there is a plug at the bottom, I would see if the clutch looks contaminated by oil etc. (assuming it really is a dry clutch).

I would look at adjusting it. As for cost... just the pressure plate for that main clutch is $202. Throwout bearing is another $28. (per tractorsmart). I think you'd be lucky to get out of a dealer for under $1500.

Charles

 

[dfkrug]

James, if you have the L4350DT, you prob have dual dry clutch plates
like other Lxx50s. My old L2550DT had dual clutch. One clutch plate is
for the driveline, the other for the PTO. If you have the L4350GST, then
you have some electo-mechanical clutches and maybe a dry main clutch
too. I do not know about the GSTs.

 

[HappyOne]

It is a DT so you experts have really helped me see I need to try adjusting it first. I will report back once I give that a try.

Thank you all!

 

[art]

If it is a DT as you stated then it could be a dry clutch and as long as the slipping hasn't hurt it to much then you might be alright. The more it slips the faster the wear!

 

[machmeter62]

It is a DT so you experts have really helped me see I need to try adjusting it first. I will report back once I give that a try.

Thank you all!

I certainly don't want to dampen your thoughts; but here is my take if the input shaft is leaking too? When you purchased that tractor, and the clutch was slipping on steep hills, and now maybe the input shaft maybe leaking; those used 900 hrs. on the tach. might be suspect too, and maybe a 2 or 3 was in front of that (9), prior to your purchase?!! But climate maybe a factor also?

I presently own four Kubotas that were all purchased new, starting 30 yrs. ago; some in the 3 to 4000 hr. range now, with one GST, and the others manual shifts. I am the sole owner/user, and the clutches, or any leaks has never been an issue! They all have the original clutch and no other problems.






.

 

[HappyOne]

I have not had any oil leaks that show externally, except one hydro line on the front loader this year. That only soaked my front right tire.
I hope to try adjusting it tomorrow.

James

 

[john_bud]

The "10" series Grand L tractors have a clutch free play spec of 20 to 30 mm or 0.8 to 1.2 in of pedal motion before the clutch starts to move. Adjust by loosening the lock nut on the clevis and turning the rod (remove from pivot first!).

jb

 

[HappyOne]

I finally found a day where it would be dry enough to do some work. I was able to adjust the clevis by a couple of rounds. I also noticed the spring didn't pull the pedal up completely, so I fixed that too. I am happy to report that I was able to move full loads in all the lower gears again. The clutch will need to be replaced at some point in the future. I doubt there is much adjustment left, it's pretty short.

Thanks for the help, and for helping me see that digging out the old manual once in a while is a good idea.

 

[john_bud]

A couple twists of the clevis is a LOT cheaper than a clutch - quicker too!

jb

 

[macraedj]

I have around 2 to 2.5 inches of free play on my clutch pedal. By adjusting this to the .8 to 1.2 inches, will this help the clutch not slip? It seems like if you had too little play than it would be more of an issue? thanks

 

[JerryG]

Now that James has his tractor fixed for now, I have a question. It is about the Kubotas with shuttle transmissions. This is about the real shuttle with the lever on the left to go from forward to reverse and back. Do all Kubota compact tractors with shuttle have dry clutch packs or do some of them have fluid clutch packs?